Saving Tomato Seeds

It’s mid September and sadly most of the container-grown tomato plants on my rooftop are on their last lap. A few green stragglers remain and the vines are starting to yellow and fade. Thankfully I’ve got another crop still running over at my community garden plot where the plants aren’t subjected to the intense sun and heat that causes the roof plants to hit such an accelerated pace. When the plants were producing at full stride, I was so caught up in enjoying (and photographing) the harvest I completely forgot to save some seeds for next year’s crop.

Of course, it’s not too late. I’ve outlined my process for seed-saving tomato seeds below. The process with very wet fruit like tomatoes is a bit different than with a relatively dry fruit like peppers. While peppers are as simple as scooping out the seeds and setting them to dry, tomatoes call for a slightly more complex method. You can, in theory use the pepper method with tomatoes. However, you may have noticed that tomatoes have a gelatinous layer surrounding each seed. This layer is called a germination inhibitor and is made up of a chemical that prevents the tomato seeds from germinating inside the fruit. While the scoop and dry method will remove that layer, fermenting the seeds first will also serve to kill diseases your plant may have contracted along the way.

Fermenting Tomato Seeds

1. Choose a heathly tomato from a healthy plant – While you’d rather save the best-looking tomatoes for eating, sick fruit from sick plants pass on… well, sickness. And remember, you can always scoop out the seeds for saving and eat the rest.

2. Scoop the insides out of your tomato (seeds and all) into a plastic yoghurt container. A lid isn’t critical but it helps with the smell.

3. Label your container with the variety name and set it somwhere warm but out of direct sun. You can prop the lid on but don’t seal it shut. Remember you’re fermenting here so this is going to stink. Find an out-of-the-way spot if you can.

It's READY!

    It’s READY!

4. Stir your container once or twice a day until a “nice” layer of white mold forms on top. This usually takes a few days. Don’t leave the fermented goo sitting for too long after this stage or your seeds will start to germinate in the container.

5. Your seeds are now ready to harvest. Thankfully you do not have to dig around in this mess in order to fish them out. All of the good seeds will have sunk to the bottom with all the useless stuff left floating in the mold. Separating the good from the bad is as easy as scooping or pouring off the moldy layer from the liquid. Remove as much as you can without losing any of the good seeds.

6. Fill the container with water, stir, and repeat step five. Repeat refilling with water and scooping until all the bad debris has been removed.

7. Rinse off the remaining seeds in a strainer and spread them out onto a pad of newspaper.

Dry tomato seeds on a pad of newspaper.

8. Set the seeds out to dry for a few days. Don’t forget to label them if you’ve got more than one variety on the go. Take it from me. I always think I’ll remember what I’ve got but I NEVER do.

9. Package your dried seeds, label, and store for next year.

    More photos can be seen on pages 167-168 of You Grow Girl. All photos by Gayla Trail.
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A Tale of Two Lettuces

Two sets of lettuce seeds sown at the same time; the first grown under a plastic take-out container “cloche”, the second grown without.

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With Cloche

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Without Cloche

Lettuce growing underneath a cloche
Here it is with the cloche on.

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Pop Cloche

Turn your plastic bottles into miniature greenhouses.

The cloche or bell jar is a miniature greenhouse contraption designed to protect seedlings from cold, bleak, or windy weather in order to hasten their maturity.

Traditionally, it is a dome made of glass that can be completely sealed (such as the bell jar) or have a small opening at the top. The bell jar creates humidity and warmth but must be adjusted as the heat and light intensifies. The open cloche allows heat to escape on its own and allows water to trickle down into the soil during a heavy rain instead of drowning the seedling.

Cloches can be expensive. Homemade versions can be made using turned over mason jars or other thick-walled glass items. These are pretty to look at in the garden, but they must be watched intently to avoid scorching seedlings or promoting fungal diseases.

If you’re willing to sacrifice a little beauty for a fully functioning device that is not only as cheap as it gets (as in free), but will go the distance, then the plastic bottle cloche is the way to go. I can’t praise this contraption enough. It has prevented critters such as raccoons and squirrels from trampling or eating my seedlings, and provided warmth and humidity during an unseasonal frost spell. It prevents potted plants from becoming enveloped in mudcakes formed during torrential spring rains, and forms a barrier against insects and slugs.

To top it all off, my seedlings are growing faster, stronger and healthier than ever before.

There are two devices that can be made from a bottle. The first is a full cloche that can be used as described above. The second is more of a ring that forms a barrier around the plant but leaves it open to attack from the top. It creates humidity around small seedlings and to the stem and base of older seedlings. This is especially good for protecting older tomato plants from slug attacks and can be left on all year long.

To make a full cloche:

  1. Remove the cap and all labels from a plastic pop or water bottle.
  2. Use a serrated knife to cut about an inch off the bottom. Try to get as close to the bottom as possible to maximize your cloche height. Alternately you can cut it down more if you prefer a shorter cloche. Just be sure to add an extra inch for support underneath the soil.
  3. Place the cloche over your seedling and bury it about an inch into the soil for support.
  4. Once the plant becomes too large for the cloche simply cut it down into a ring and leave it around the plant indefinitely, or remove it and throw it into your recycling bin.

To make a protective ring:

  1. Remove all labels from a plastic pop or water bottle.
  2. Use a serrated knife to cut about an inch off the bottom. Try to get as close to the bottom as possible to maximize your ring height.
  3. Cut the top off where the bottle begins to form a dome. You should be left with a cylinder of plastic. This can be cut in half to create two rings or cut down to reduce the height. Just be sure to leave an extra inch because this will be buried in the soil.
  4. Place the ring around your plant and bury it into the soil for support (and to prevent critters from going underneath).
  5. The ring can be left around the plant indefinitely to provide protection all season long.
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