Pineapple Mint

Another corner of my garden. This is fuzzy ‘Pineapple’ mint growing in a pot. I’ve resolved to grow all of my mint in pots this year. Contrary to reputation, mints behave rather well over at my community garden. The trick to keeping them under control seems to be growing them in less than ideal conditions. Plus, over there they have to fight against the wild and alpine strawberries for supreme dominance and guess who’s winning that war?

Here though, I expect mint to flourish and then some so I’m playing it safe for now. Everyone in pots!

The pretty floral design seen in the shot (above) is the top of a foot stool I found in the garbage the other night. Going out on garbage night around here is like going shopping! We’ve done well outfitting the garden with our neighbours’ discards.

The stool is red and the top is covered in this amazingly vibrant plastic mac-tac. I LOVE it! If the previous owner comes across this photo and realizes their mistake: I’m sorry but you can’t have it back.

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Grow a Mixed Strawberry and Herb Container

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

When I was in the West Indies, I was surprised to see how much people coveted strawberries. While I was salivating over golden apple and fresh bananas, West Indians were paying through the nose for a basket of pathetic, well-traveled berry-like objects. I don’t think strawberries grow very well in extreme tropical heat. That didn’t stop one gardener I visited in Dominica from trying. As my own strawberries begin to set fruit and ripen I wonder if her little plant has made it and if she was able to savor a few homegrown berries this year.

Here in Toronto, it’s not too late to start strawberries. My first article of the season for the Globe & Mail explains how, but did not include this photo of a mixed planting I put together using an old honey tin I bought at a yard sale. If you are going to use something like this, don’t forget to add drainage holes. I made several in the bottom using a large nail I keep on hand for this purpose. Everything in this pot is edible, including the flowers.

One Each of: An unknown hybrid strawberry (the berries are ripening now!), ‘Golden’ sage (it is not hardy here and does not grow very big), ‘Gem Apricot Antique’ viola (may soon have to be replace for something more heat tolerant as the summer kicks in, or you can just pull it out when it kicks it and let the strawberry and sage spread.)

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Growing Strawberries: The Globe and Mail

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Like last year, I will be putting together a series of edible gardening articles (writing and photography) for the Globe & Mail that will be published in both the national portion of the printed paper and online every other Saturday until fall. The following, on growing strawberries is my first article of this season. If you’d like to see what I wrote last year, it looks like articles have been archived on the Globe and Mail website (scroll down the page to the title “How to Grow Veggies”).

While I’m being self-promotional: My next Toronto-based workshop (and likely my last until the fall.), “Growing Tomatoes in Containers” is this coming Saturday and there is still one or two spaces left.

The Summer 2010 issue of Country Gardens Magazine (which I love because my gardens are about as urban as one can get) has an interview with me in their “Over the Garden Gate” feature. Hello, if you have come from this mag!

Edible Toronto also recently featured a really lovely piece on Grow Great Grub that includes a photo of me in/on my roof garden taken by Laura Berman.

The talented and prolific Julie Jackson (of Subversive Cross Stitch and Kitty Wigs) recently interviewed me for her Craft magazine column Subversive Finds.

Okay, enough of that. Here’s the article.

Next week I will post a strawberry/herb container planting that didn’t make it into the newspaper or online versions.

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First published in Saturday’s Globe and Mail (Friday, May. 21, 2010.)

The Real Dirt: Bigger isn’t better when it comes to strawberries

A really good or even decent strawberry needs to be slow-ripened in the sun: They are literally tiny buttons of distilled sunshine. This is why the store-bought imposters, picked while still under-ripe to maximize time on the shelf, will never pass.

Fortunately, strawberries are probably the easiest fruit crop to grow. Anyone with a small patch of sun, whether it touches down on a backyard, a front stoop or a window ledge, can grow a little taste of summer. Individual strawberry plants are generally pretty small, with shallow root systems. As a result, they’re adaptable to growing in tight spaces and even smaller containers where few other fruits will thrive. I once grew a strawberry plant in a repurposed soup can. Sure, it produced only a couple of berries, but by God they were delicious little morsels — and better to have a taste of the good stuff than none at all.

Growing up in the fruit belt of Ontario, I was under the mistaken impression that all strawberries were the same: the bigger the better. But it turns out that the tiny, wild types are superior when it comes to taste. It’s as if all of the flavour of a big berry is super-concentrated and then jammed into a smaller package. Wild strawberries (Fragaria vesca) and their cultivated cousins, known as alpines or frais des bois, last forever in the garden too, while the gigantic hybrids (Fragaria x ananassa) tend to fizzle out and stop producing after a few years. Of the hybrids, try a day-neutral variety that will set fruit throughout the growing season (‘Seascape’ is one) or ‘Mara des Bois’ for a flavour and fragrance bred to compete with wild types. For something decorative, choose varieties that have colourful flowers — such as ‘Lipstick’ and ‘Pink Panda’ — rather than the typical white.

To get ripe berries this season, buy a hanging basket of mature plants that will be ready for picking through the summer. To grow a long-term crop, begin in the spring with mature bare rootstock or leafy plants — don’t bother with seed unless you want to grow a big crop of alpines. Dig the plants in so that the crown (where the leaves meet the roots) is just above the soil line. If it’s too deep, the crown will rot; if it’s too high, it will dry out.

Strawberries require a bright and sunny spot with excellent drainage — they are one of a few edibles that will thrive in moderately sandy soil. In a less than sunny spot, try the ‘Mignonette’ variety, an alpine that turns out loads of charming, pointy little fruit set against toothy, ornamental leaves.

More important than sun, strawberries grow best when the soil is kept moist, but not soggy. Lay a thick blanket of straw mulch around the plants to moderate the soil moisture and keep weeds out. Add a little bit of compost at planting time but don’t overdo it with fertilizer or you’ll end up with boring, bland berries.

Except for alpines, all strawberry plants reproduce aggressively by setting off tiny plantlets known as runners. Come fall, you can encourage runners to take root and quickly double your initial investment with a bigger crop next year. Keep your plants alive through the winter by tucking them in with a new blanket of straw. Shallow window-box plants probably won’t survive, but you can transfer them to the garden or into much deeper planter boxes or plastic pots and repot next spring.

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Alpine Strawberries (Fragaria vesca)

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

New alpine strawberry plants were put in a bit late in my community garden plot, so we’re getting our first berries from these plants well after most of the everbearing cultivated plants have finished their first flush.

If you’ve never had alpine strawberries, they’re intensely flavoured, not unlike wild strawberries. They have an almost spongy texture and remind me a little of dehydrated strawberries… yet not.

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Growing an Edible Strawberry Pot

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Strawberry pots have a bad reputation in the gardening world. They have poor water distribution and tend to dry out quickly. Sometimes they’re ugly. Or the pockets are too small. Or the pockets don’t have a lip, making holding soil in at planting time nearly impossible. The good ones are expensive to buy, if you can find one. I once spent an inordinate amount of money taxiing around the city in search of the right pot for a workshop. Three inferior pots and more money than I care to think about later and I was eventually forced to call a friend and beg to borrow hers. Is it borrowing if you never give it back? And four years have passed?

Despite their faults, I’ll be the first to stand up for strawberry pots. When they’re good, they’re really good. A good strawberry pot is an excellent way to grow food in vertical space. It’s especially useful when all you’ve got in the way of good light is a tiny patch on the balcony. Growing vertically allows you to get as much as you can out of that tiny patch. And they look pretty darn nice too. I like to fill mine with drapey plants that cascade over the sides. The trick to using them is in choosing the right kind of pot, and the right plants for that pot.

So what features qualify a strawberry pot as good?

  1. Large Pockets: Big pockets make planting the pots up a whole lot easier. Anything under 3″ is impossible to work with. How do they expect us to shove roots through a tiny hole? And why do I feel so dirty typing that? The lip also supports the roots while the plant gets itself established and provides more root space between plants. Lipped pots are also easier to water since the water has time to soak in rather than running straight out of the holes. When watering these pots I often direct the flow to the top of the pot and then to each pocket individually. That way I know that the plants aren’t sitting there in dry soil while only the top and middle of the pot gets wet.
  2. Pockets with Lips: Lipped pockets have a slightly raised side that keeps soil in while the roots grow. Eventually the roots will develop and hold everything in. My trick for pots with lips is to shove a bit of coir liner in there to stabilize the soil. I’ve also covered the hole with landscape fabric or newspaper before adding soil. Then I just cut an X and poke the roots through. It’s a bit of a juggle but it works.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved
The pockets on this pot do not have lips but it makes up for it in larger pockets and a larger pot size.

  1. Ceramic Pots: Ceramic pots are the best of the bunch. They’re also the most expensive, but worth it. They hold water better than terra cotta and look a whole lot classier than plastic.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

My favourite strawberry pot (the infamous “borrowed pot”). Note the ceramic glaze, and large pockets with big lips that are staggered around the circumference of the pot. This version, planted up several years ago is holding the classic herbal mix with the largest plant, rosemary, in the top. Now, if only the pot were not white. I hate white!

  1. Staggered Pockets: Most pots have pockets that are staggered around the pot at different levels so that plants are equally distributed around the pot and not sharing space. But I have one pot that is shallow with pockets that are all at the same level. When I pot it up, which is basically never, the plants grow crowded and compete for space. Bad design.
  2. Big Pots: Bigger strawberry pots stay wet longer and provide more root space for plants. This is especially important if you’re trying to grow something edible. Don’t bother messing with those little pots they’ve got in the impulse buy section of the garden centre unless you plan to use them for drought tolerant succulents or some small thyme plants. That said, I have been hunting for a simple, small pot for years with no luck. But I plan to grow thyme in it.

What plants work best in strawberry pots?

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Well, strawberries for one. I grow a strawberry-filled strawberry pot every year. The roots are small and fit easily into just about any sized pot. If you’re interested in trying something new, look for varieties with colourful flowers (pink is common) or variegated leaves.

Herbs are another good option. Stick to drought tolerant herbs such as thyme, oregano, or marjoram if you’re growing in a smaller pot. Big pots can support a wide assortment of herbs. I grow a different mix every year, starting with cool season plants early in the spring and then switching them out for tougher, heat-loving plants that can take a bit of neglect once the summer kicks in. One of my favourite pots stick to one type of herb with a different variety in each pocket. I grew a mint mix last year that was stunning once the plants started to trail and produce flowers. It was nice to have so many different varieties of mint on hand to pinch off for tea.

Lettuce and other assorted greens will grow well if you start your pot early in the spring while the temperatures are cool. Create visual interest by growing varieties with different shapes, colours, and textures in each pocket. The pot show at the top of this page is filled with strawberries with a dark, frilly ‘Red Oak Leaf’ lettuce in the top.

I’ve included a printable list that will help you get started in choosing the right plant for your conditions as well as herbal mixes that will grow well together.

The Famous Watering Trick, Modified

As mentioned above, strawberry pots are known for having water distribution problems. One trick many gardeners have turned to is to insert a piece of PVC pipe with tiny holes drilled throughout, down into the centre of the pot at planting time. When you pour water into the pipe, the water flows down and trickles through the holes, allowing water to reach all nooks and crannies in the pot.

It’s a good idea, but it does not come without problems:

  1. PVC pipes cost money.
  2. PVC isn’t a particularly safe plastic to have around food.

To avoid these problems, I’ve been utilizing my own modified version that has served me well for several years:

  1. Scour recycling bins for plastic water bottles that are long, tall, and thin. Look for a bottle that is nearly as tall as your pot.
  2. Using the tiniest drill bit you can find, make lots of holes all around the bottle.
  3. At planting time, bury the bottle in the centre of the pot, with the top just sticking up above the soil line. Try to hide it behind some foliage.
  4. When watering, direct the flow into the bottle and fill. Now, cap it off. Capping the bottle seems to restrict the flow, giving the entire pot the chance to soak up the water, instead of sending it straight down to the bottom of the pot.
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