Cold Snap Gums Up the Works

As I type this, one third of my rooftop garden sits on the floor in my living room. A second third of the garden is cluttering up the hallway around our front door. “Come on in friendly visitor! But first brave this minefield of plants, soil, and containers.” The final third remains outside. They were either impossible to transport or cold hardy enough to stay outdoors during last night’s reported RISK OF FROST, dated June 5, 2007. In June. Five days into the month of June in the year 2007. Just days after sweating to the oldies with RISK OF BURNING UP while adding new plants to my community garden plot.

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Who loves climate change now?

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We constructed this tent system for the garbage can-grown tomatoes that could not be moved. We used a huge piece of canvas cloth and the existing tripod stakes in the containers as support. The tomatoes look fine but the tomatillo is not taking it well at all. I’ve left this insane structure in place since it is still very cold and windy out there. The rooftop deck is exposed on three sides so the wind is a lot more intense than on the ground.

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On a positive note I ate my first peas of the season this morning and ‘Whipper Snapper’ (aka ‘Whippersnapper’) is still going strong having begun making itty bitty tomatoes sometime around last Friday. At this rate, and if the real June ever decides to return, we should have our first tomatoes before July 1.

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Your Questions Answered: Tall and Floppy Seedlings

Question: I bought an all-in-one seed starting kit that is supposed to make the procedure a breeze. I’m new to this so I tried growing stuff like marigolds, pansies, and herbs but everything died! The seedlings grew tall and floppy with a couple of sad looking leaves. I propped them up but after a few days they gave up and “met their maker” so-to-speak. Can you give me some advice so I can see where I went wrong?

If your seedlings are growing tall and floppy it probably means they aren’t getting enough light. Light deficient seedlings grow tall, thin, and eventually weak as they reach towards the closest light source. This leads to sickly plants that are susceptible to the kind of disease that eventually carried your seedlings to plant heaven. In their early days, most seeds require heat rather than light to get the ball rolling. However, your seedlings will need plenty of strong light — at least 12 to 16 hours per day — once they have popped out of their shell and up through the soil.

Finding a good spot in your home can be tricky. A south-facing window will do during bright summer months, but even springtime sunshine lacks the consistently intense light that seedlings depend on.

An inexpensive fluorescent light is the best way to ensure the right start for your young flowers and herbs. Don’t break the bank on a swanky greenhouse system. Instead pick up a cheap and practical fluorescent shop light box with two fixtures (fits two tube bulbs) from your local hardware store. Get 40-watt bulbs; one cool white and one warm white and suspend the box about 4″ above your plants. Hang the light on a linked chain so you can raise it as your seedlings grow.

This setup isn’t exactly stylin’ (unless science-geek chic is your thing), but your next round of seedlings are bound to be robust, stocky and ready to make the journey outdoors.

Get It: A 4 ft shop light with built-in chain will cost around $25. at your local home improvement store. I recommend Phillips Alto T12 or T8 bulbs (about $2.50 each). Make sure your bulbs are a match for the fixture as the two aren’t interchangeable. A setup with T8 bulbs will be a slightly larger investment but are about 20% more energy efficient.

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Seed Starting – Germination

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

What Happens When A Seed Germinates?

The whole purpose of starting seeds indoors is to cheat winter a little.

Ironically, even as we cheat nature, we must imitate her. Light, soil, water, air, and a basic understanding of the process of germination are all you need. Once you know the simple things a seed requires, starting them indoors won’t seem half as complicated.

Seeds are their own energy source, a plant in embryo form. They store energy in a form that is released and used only when water, oxygen, soil, and a close-to-ideal temperature are a part of their surroundings.

Until then, they remain dormant. Germination inhibitors are part of the make-up of every seed. They actually prevent a seed from germinating until its chances of survival are good. Usually chemical in nature (five per cent of seeds are simply waterproof, dormant until their seed coat cracks), germination inhibitors put a seed into dormancy. Without these, a tomato seed, for example, would spout right inside the fruit of the plant that formed it, where there is moisture and warmth, good conditions for germination. Inhibitors give a seed time to travel away from the parent plant, and allow it to overwinter, or be stored, giving that seed the best possible chance to reproduce successfully and to spread. Germination inhibitors ‘wear off’ over time, allowing a seed to sprout the next year.

The seed coat or outside of a seed protects it during dormancy. Hidden inside that coat is the radicle or beginning of a root, the hypocotyl or beginning of a shoot, either one or two seed leaves or cotyledons (the seed’s food supply), and the epicotyl, which will become the first true leaves. The seeds of some plants have a second food supply, called the endosperm. Plants with one cotyledon are called monocots. Those with two are dicots.

Spring like conditions soil that’s wet and beginning to warm up, and longer days and stronger sunlight signal the seed to break dormancy. Light triggers germination of many small seeds, while other seeds germinate best in darkness. Some seeds prefer warm temperatures, others cold. Such differences are a reflection of biodiversity. Simply, plants native to areas with warm conditions produce seeds that germinate best in warm soil, while those native to cold places prefer cool soil.

Know what conditions your seeds naturally prefer, and try to emulate them.

Water does two things to a seed. First, it activates enzymes that stimulate the release of food energy stored during dormancy. Second, it splits the tough seed coat open so that oxygen gets in. Energy stored in the cotyledon ‘burns’ and is used only in the presence of oxygen, powering the seedling’s cells as they begin to divide and grow. This process is called respiration.

Soil holds the water and air that a seed needs to respirate. Too much water drives out air pockets in soil. Don’t over-water. Without air, seeds can’t use their stored energy through respiration. Never let seeded soil dry out. Without water, seeds can’t use their stored energy.
This stored energy only lasts so long. That’s why a sprouting seed works so hard to break the soil and unfold into the light quickly. It’s also the reason that germination of many seeds is triggered by light. If a small seed germinated in a moist but dark environment, it might run out of energy before ever reaching the soil surface. But if a seed needs light, it won’t germinate until it’s close to the soil surface. That way, it has a chance to survive. But before a seed begins to grow up, it grows down, anchoring itself with a root, the first life to emerge from the seed coat. The root allows the spout to begin to absorb water and food from the soil.

A seed can only store so much energy. That‘s why smaller seeds must be planted shallower, larger seeds deeper. Little seeds planted too deep will exhaust themselves and die underground. Large seeds can easily dry up if planted too shallow. Really small seeds should just be pressed onto the soil surface.

Next, the shoot begins to grow, splitting the seed coat even more. Soon, the growing shoot pushes the seed leave(s) above the soil. They unfold, sometimes still wearing their dried up seed coat on their tips. As the root continues to grow, a bud will appear between the seed leave(s). From this, the first two true leaves will grow, enabling the plant to begin to photosynthesis, the production of energy using light.

Lacking light, seedlings will compensate by shooting up towards the light source and becoming ‘leggy’ and weak. Provide lots of light twelve hours a day. Use a south-facing windowsill, or good artificial lighting.

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Seed Starting – Damping Off

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Seed Rot or ‘Damping Off’… What is damping off?

This gentle term describes the death of seedlings by fungal disease, either before or after they emerge from the pod. This sudden plant death can happen for up to four weeks after seeds are started. It actually describers a few different fungal diseases carried in soil or seed. These fungi can survive for years or forever in soil, and are found in all soil outdoors.

Causes:

  • overwatering
  • unsterile soil
  • dirty growing containers
  • overcrowding seedlings
  • stress, such as low light, cool temperatures

Symptoms:

  • Seeds don’t germinate: they may have rotted underground
  • Sudden wilting or discolouration
  • seedling falls over: stem bends at soil level
  • roots of diseased plant are black or brown

Prevention:

  • Clean growing conditions.
  • Clean containers yearly
  • use sterile soil mixes.
  • Water seedlings from the bottom of their containers
  • Avoid overwatering
  • Don’t plant seeds too deep
  • Soil with a low pH: commercial starter mixes average 5.5 pH
  • Good ventilation: moving air
  • Use a soil-less starting mix, such as a peat moss/vermiculite mix. (This is not an environmentally friendly option, however, as peat moss is comes from sensitive bogs.)
  • Plant seeds on soil, but cover with sand instead of soil.

Protect seedlings organically:

  • Mist plants with either chamomile clove, or stinging nettle tea as a preventative. These herbal brews have known anti-fungal properties.
  • A one-time dusting of cinnamon powder or powdered charcoal on the soil surface will also help prevent damping-off.
  • Disinfect containers and tools with very hot water and biodegradable soap: this is the most environmentally conscious method. If you think you have a real problem with damping off, use one part bleach to four parts water, or a 70% solution of rubbing alcohol.

Confession of a lazy grower
I do only two things to prevent damping off: I avoid overwatering, and I provide good air circulation. My seedlings are doing fine.

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Pop Cloche

Turn your plastic bottles into miniature greenhouses.

The cloche or bell jar is a miniature greenhouse contraption designed to protect seedlings from cold, bleak, or windy weather in order to hasten their maturity.

Traditionally, it is a dome made of glass that can be completely sealed (such as the bell jar) or have a small opening at the top. The bell jar creates humidity and warmth but must be adjusted as the heat and light intensifies. The open cloche allows heat to escape on its own and allows water to trickle down into the soil during a heavy rain instead of drowning the seedling.

Cloches can be expensive. Homemade versions can be made using turned over mason jars or other thick-walled glass items. These are pretty to look at in the garden, but they must be watched intently to avoid scorching seedlings or promoting fungal diseases.

If you’re willing to sacrifice a little beauty for a fully functioning device that is not only as cheap as it gets (as in free), but will go the distance, then the plastic bottle cloche is the way to go. I can’t praise this contraption enough. It has prevented critters such as raccoons and squirrels from trampling or eating my seedlings, and provided warmth and humidity during an unseasonal frost spell. It prevents potted plants from becoming enveloped in mudcakes formed during torrential spring rains, and forms a barrier against insects and slugs.

To top it all off, my seedlings are growing faster, stronger and healthier than ever before.

There are two devices that can be made from a bottle. The first is a full cloche that can be used as described above. The second is more of a ring that forms a barrier around the plant but leaves it open to attack from the top. It creates humidity around small seedlings and to the stem and base of older seedlings. This is especially good for protecting older tomato plants from slug attacks and can be left on all year long.

To make a full cloche:

  1. Remove the cap and all labels from a plastic pop or water bottle.
  2. Use a serrated knife to cut about an inch off the bottom. Try to get as close to the bottom as possible to maximize your cloche height. Alternately you can cut it down more if you prefer a shorter cloche. Just be sure to add an extra inch for support underneath the soil.
  3. Place the cloche over your seedling and bury it about an inch into the soil for support.
  4. Once the plant becomes too large for the cloche simply cut it down into a ring and leave it around the plant indefinitely, or remove it and throw it into your recycling bin.

To make a protective ring:

  1. Remove all labels from a plastic pop or water bottle.
  2. Use a serrated knife to cut about an inch off the bottom. Try to get as close to the bottom as possible to maximize your ring height.
  3. Cut the top off where the bottle begins to form a dome. You should be left with a cylinder of plastic. This can be cut in half to create two rings or cut down to reduce the height. Just be sure to leave an extra inch because this will be buried in the soil.
  4. Place the ring around your plant and bury it into the soil for support (and to prevent critters from going underneath).
  5. The ring can be left around the plant indefinitely to provide protection all season long.
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