The Eggling Experiment

Eggling

I know that this cute little product has made the rounds in the design and gardening world so I know I’m probably not showing you anything new. I have been resisting the charm of the Eggling since I first heard of them because I generally do not support this kind of product no matter how cute. My reasons for blacklisting such products are simple: they aren’t appropriate vessels for growing healthy plants and as a thrifty gardener I am inherently against promoting excessive gardening product purchases. I mean, why buy a fancy porcelain egg meant to look like a real egg when you can just use a real egg — at no additional charge! Gardening for the first time can be a bit daunting. I am all about reducing some of that pressure in any way possible. And inevitably the eventual demise of what began as a fun try at growing something leads to the new gardener’s assertion that they just don’t have a green thumb. And so they give up.

So I generally stay away from promoting this kind of product or buying one for myself. Because even though I know how the story will end, I am a designer at heart and I can’t help but be drawn in by pretty things anymore than the next person. So cute! And simple! And pretty!

However, my spouse just came back from a short work trip to Southern California (no jealousy here) and surprised me with a thyme Eggling as a treat. He knew I would never buy one for myself and thought it might make an interesting experiment for the site. He’s heard me talk publicly about gardening enough (and read the book) to know that if anything was going to endure the hardships of such a small space it would be thyme. I’m very proud. Sigh.

I know it’s unfair of me to judge without personal experience so I plan to give this little one a go and will post updates here as they occur. In the meantime I am eager to hear about your experiences with this product. Please add your comments below.

p.s In an effort to light a fire under my ass I’ve elected to participate in NaBloPoMo here on YGG. There are plenty of day-to-day gardening experiences that I could be sharing here but many topics slide and become outdated before I get a chance to write.

Leave a comment

Getting My Seeds Started, Right

This year will go down in history as the year I not only started seeds on time, organized all seeds by category (direct sow, indoor starts, and never-going-to-grow-it-so-trade-it-already), AND managed to draw up some kind of “plan” beyond casual (and quickly forgetten) mental lists. I rule. For now. We’ll see what happens when transplant buying season begins. I have a little problem with plant-related impulse buys that completely throw well-made plans out the window.

Regardless, bear witness to my awesomeness.

Seeds are started

Nine containers were washed, filled with seed-starting mix and planted up with nine carefully chosen veggies:

  • Hot Pepper ‘Fish’
  • Sweet Pepper ‘Pepperoncini’
  • Eggplant ‘Turkish Orange’
  • Tomato ‘Broad Ripple Yellow Currant’
  • Tomato ‘Sunrise III’
  • Tomato ‘Silver Fir Tree’
  • Tomato ‘Black Pear’
  • Tomato ‘Ceylon’
  • Tomato ‘Costoluto Genovese’

Seeds inside a recycled container

Two smaller 4-cell packs were washed, filled with seed-starting mix and planted with annuals:

  • Nicotiana sylvestris
  • Pansy ‘Can Can

The humidity dome pictured is actually a used plastic container that once held salad mix. I just flipped it over, making the lid my tray, and the container my dome. Good-sized take-away containers also work well.

I also transplanted the African violet seedlings that were grown from leaf cuttings. Some of the original leaves had good-sized stems so I recut them and started again.

The weather was beautiful a few days ago so I headed off to the community garden and popped in a few sugar peas ‘Carouby de Maussane’ (sweet peas with ornamental, purple flowers).

Seeds from West Coast Seeds

And finally, my newest seed shipment arrived this week along with a few recent trades. I couldn’t resist a pack of ‘Baie Vert’ pole beans from Colette’s stand at the Farmer’s Market this week. I am easily enticed by the words “rare heirloom” and back stories that involve trades between Acadians and Native groups. I just put in two additional seed orders today. The only thing I didn’t manage to get on my list was ‘purple mizuna‘. Regardless, if the stacks of seed packets are any indication, all of my bases are pretty much covered.

Leave a comment

The Lazy Gardener’s Seed Starting Chart

Guest post by Maggie Wang

Calculate seed sowing and planting dates in seconds with this even handier version of the Handy Seed Starting Chart.

  1. Download the seed starting chart file. If you don’t have excel, you can download a free open-source office suite with a spreadsheet application at openoffice.org or Google Docs.
  2. Enter the “Frost Free Date” for your region in the yellow box at the top. See almanac.com
  3. Before you can say, “Presto chango” the spreadsheet will quickly calculate all sowing and planting dates and place them in the appropriate fields.
  4. Print your chart and hang near your seed starting set-up or tape it into your garden journal. It is that easy!

You can also download a do-your-own-math PDF Seed Starting Chart for the mathematically inclined.

Maggie Wang is a full-time video game developer and part-time illustrator fascinated by numbers, cats, computers, fitness, karaoke, growing stuff, and cooking healthy foods that don’t taste like sawdust.

Comments Off

Seeds, Seeds, Seeds

My seeds have arrived. Some are just in time for planting and some are kind-of late but manageable. Just to be clear I have done a first batch of seeds. This is a second, last-minute batch. They are all heirloom varieties purchased from Seed Savers. I’m very excited! I’ve already opened every packet and inspected all the seeds. I suspect most gardeners do this as a result of the pure excitment of it all. However, I will admit that at times I’ve purchased seeds just to see what they looked like, with no intention of growing them. That might be slightly more than a gardening quirk.

Here’s what I purchased:
Read more…

Leave a comment

Seed Starting – Germination

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

What Happens When A Seed Germinates?

The whole purpose of starting seeds indoors is to cheat winter a little.

Ironically, even as we cheat nature, we must imitate her. Light, soil, water, air, and a basic understanding of the process of germination are all you need. Once you know the simple things a seed requires, starting them indoors won’t seem half as complicated.

Seeds are their own energy source, a plant in embryo form. They store energy in a form that is released and used only when water, oxygen, soil, and a close-to-ideal temperature are a part of their surroundings.

Until then, they remain dormant. Germination inhibitors are part of the make-up of every seed. They actually prevent a seed from germinating until its chances of survival are good. Usually chemical in nature (five per cent of seeds are simply waterproof, dormant until their seed coat cracks), germination inhibitors put a seed into dormancy. Without these, a tomato seed, for example, would spout right inside the fruit of the plant that formed it, where there is moisture and warmth, good conditions for germination. Inhibitors give a seed time to travel away from the parent plant, and allow it to overwinter, or be stored, giving that seed the best possible chance to reproduce successfully and to spread. Germination inhibitors ‘wear off’ over time, allowing a seed to sprout the next year.

The seed coat or outside of a seed protects it during dormancy. Hidden inside that coat is the radicle or beginning of a root, the hypocotyl or beginning of a shoot, either one or two seed leaves or cotyledons (the seed’s food supply), and the epicotyl, which will become the first true leaves. The seeds of some plants have a second food supply, called the endosperm. Plants with one cotyledon are called monocots. Those with two are dicots.

Spring like conditions soil that’s wet and beginning to warm up, and longer days and stronger sunlight signal the seed to break dormancy. Light triggers germination of many small seeds, while other seeds germinate best in darkness. Some seeds prefer warm temperatures, others cold. Such differences are a reflection of biodiversity. Simply, plants native to areas with warm conditions produce seeds that germinate best in warm soil, while those native to cold places prefer cool soil.

Know what conditions your seeds naturally prefer, and try to emulate them.

Water does two things to a seed. First, it activates enzymes that stimulate the release of food energy stored during dormancy. Second, it splits the tough seed coat open so that oxygen gets in. Energy stored in the cotyledon ‘burns’ and is used only in the presence of oxygen, powering the seedling’s cells as they begin to divide and grow. This process is called respiration.

Soil holds the water and air that a seed needs to respirate. Too much water drives out air pockets in soil. Don’t over-water. Without air, seeds can’t use their stored energy through respiration. Never let seeded soil dry out. Without water, seeds can’t use their stored energy.
This stored energy only lasts so long. That’s why a sprouting seed works so hard to break the soil and unfold into the light quickly. It’s also the reason that germination of many seeds is triggered by light. If a small seed germinated in a moist but dark environment, it might run out of energy before ever reaching the soil surface. But if a seed needs light, it won’t germinate until it’s close to the soil surface. That way, it has a chance to survive. But before a seed begins to grow up, it grows down, anchoring itself with a root, the first life to emerge from the seed coat. The root allows the spout to begin to absorb water and food from the soil.

A seed can only store so much energy. That‘s why smaller seeds must be planted shallower, larger seeds deeper. Little seeds planted too deep will exhaust themselves and die underground. Large seeds can easily dry up if planted too shallow. Really small seeds should just be pressed onto the soil surface.

Next, the shoot begins to grow, splitting the seed coat even more. Soon, the growing shoot pushes the seed leave(s) above the soil. They unfold, sometimes still wearing their dried up seed coat on their tips. As the root continues to grow, a bud will appear between the seed leave(s). From this, the first two true leaves will grow, enabling the plant to begin to photosynthesis, the production of energy using light.

Lacking light, seedlings will compensate by shooting up towards the light source and becoming ‘leggy’ and weak. Provide lots of light twelve hours a day. Use a south-facing windowsill, or good artificial lighting.

Comments Off