We Made a Pumpkin

Thanksgiving weekend has just passed in Canada, and even though I’m not big on the holiday, the one thing I do demand is a homemade pumpkin pie. Fortunately, we made a pumpkin this year. Accidentally.

Here’s how it happened. Back in the late spring, a friend gave us some unmarked transplants for the Yardshare Garden. A few of them were squashes, but at that size we could not yet tell if they were bushes or vines. We didn’t have any full sun spaces left, so we tucked one into a slightly less than sunny spot near the back of the garden. It wasn’t the best spot, and we knew it wasn’t the best spot, but we planted it anyways. I thought it still had a shot and felt it was worth the experiment to see what would happen when the growing conditions aren’t perfect, but not too far off of the mark either. I’ve learned a lot experimenting in this way. Probably more than I’ve learned doing things the right way. Some edible plants surprise you: they turn out nicely but their yield is lower. Others are just too unhealthy and succumb to diseases and pests they might be more resistant to in better conditions.

When we planted the squash, I assumed it was a bushing zucchini. It wasn’t.

And so it grew and grew rather quickly as winter squashes often do. And when it was threatening to take over the yard, I brought over a freestanding trellis I had woven from green branches in the early spring and we wound it up and off of the ground.

It looked pretty good for an unexpected plant stuck in the wrong space. We were all surprised when the plant grew a pumpkin and the critters that visit the garden didn’t get it. I’ve grown pumpkins (intentionally) several times, but keeping them going in community garden spaces that are overrun by mammalian critters is difficult. The trick is to find ways to protect the fruit when you aren’t there, which is most of the time. City critters are smart — they always break through my defences. Yet, here we were with a pumpkin that we didn’t intend to grow, had put in the wrong spot, and had made little effort to protect. Go pumpkin!

Unfortunately, it was a strange summer. It was unbearably hot and dry for weeks, then raining, raining, raining. Not the best conditions for a squash plant that was not in the sunniest spot in the garden. The plant quickly turned the corner from nice to unsaveable in the bat of an eye. Fortunately, by then the lone pumpkin had turned orange and was very near mature. Eventually the plant died back entirely and the pumpkin fell off of its own accord.

Here it is.
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A Little Something About Big Pumpkins

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

A round this time each year huge pumpkins, some as big as a thousand pounds, are loaded–using either a forklift or a bunch of strong people and a tarp–into vans and trucks and taken to contests. Growers have spent months tending to these pumpkins that by now have become lumpy, flattened-by-their-own-unnatural-mass giants. This years’ heavyweight pumpkin of 1140 pounds was grown by Dave Stelts, and weighed in at Canfield, Ohio. Nine pumpkins grown this year joined “club 1000” (the informal name for growers who have “broken the barrier”), a record in itself. In the eighties, the heaviest pumpkin weighed in at just over 400 pounds-now a pumpkin over 1000 pounds is expected each year.

A guy named Howard Dill gets most of the credit for the size of pumpkin being grown today. He’s a Nova Scotia farmer who started growing pumpkins in the fifties and spent 30 years breeding them for size. He held the world record from 1979 to 1982. Today, he sells his own variety of seeds, Dill’s Atlantic Giant, by mail order. Pumpkins grown from his seeds are known to grow into the biggest pumpkins of any.

It’s supposed to be a hobby, but competition for first prize weigh-off contests is serious. The people who really want to win are always trying to concoct ways of giving their pumpkin the advantage-a special fertilizer mix, a certain way of a training the vines, a custom greenhouse… If it’s not money on the line, it’s skill and pride. One contest, held by the World Pumpkin Confederation, offers a $50 000 first prize, far more than any other. But there’s still cache in growing the biggest pumpkin, even if it’s not for the big dough. Other growers respect the skill of winners: they go to them for seeds and advice, and follow their methods of growing (if they are willing to share them) religiously. Howard Dill for example is actually described as the `guru’ of big pumpkins by other growers. Some even protect their prize pumpkins with elaborate security systems.

The people who are best at growing pumpkins muster all their human ingenuity and gardening know-how to give nature a winning push. A prize pumpkin doesn’t have to be pretty, edible, or even non-toxic. It just has to weigh a ton. The plants are monitored, measured, and treated scientifically but are at the same time coddled and even loved. They are fertilized according to a program, and liberally treated with fungicides, insecticides, herbicides, and anything else in the arsenal of old-fashioned, chemical-heavy style gardening—even before the grower notices a problem! These gourds are not bred to be pest resistant, that’s for sure. A site called The Pumpkin Nook pretty much expresses the feeling growers have towards the use of pesticides:

” If you are in search of the behemoth pumpkin, spraying to control insects is unfortunately a must…Fortunately those striving for prize winning pumpkins will not be eating the fruit, so health risks are lower. “

Theoretically, though, one fruit could supply the pumpkin for 900 pies. In “Training and Pruning your Pumpkin Vines” David McCallum tells a story of sacrifice in the quest to keep a giant squash safe from the weather:

” The squash was kept growing in the greenhouse with the aid of a propane furnace until November 4. The greenhouse even made it through a 4″ wet snowfall. By setting the alarm clock and getting up every four hours, my brother and I were able to keep the roof clean all night long. “

No wonder pumpkin growers describe their hobby as a sport-and he’s probably not the first to miss a good nights’ sleep over his pumpkin. One grower describes the nerves that accompany the late season, when the pumpkin is getting huge, as the time to start taking nerve pills. It seems the stress is incredible; the pumpkins grow 15 to 20 pounds a day, a rate of growth that can cause them to split without any warning, the growers’ worst fear.

Less earnest accounts tell of increasing the heft of pumpkins by injecting them with growth hormones (the story I’d heard about feeding pumpkins milk turns out to be a myth), filling the hollow with water the night before the weigh-off, patching up cracks with silicone and disguising signs of rot. But if the rules for pumpkin weigh-offs are to be followed, they mostly use every trick in the gardening book, many of them extravagant.

I always thought that this was an innocent hobby. It’s actually rather cutthroat and involves a lot of fertilizer and water in the name of being number one. If you ask me, it’s more a human accomplishment that happens to involve a plant. Here are some tips of the pumpkin growing superstars, things that may seem a bit odd to the uninitiated. If you ask me, only true pumpkin maniacs would go so far in pursuit of a giant, unedible vegetable.

  • Soil is most important. Most how-to articles recommend digging a pit five foot square and three feet deep (!) and filling it with a mixture of sheep, chicken, horse and cattle manure and leaf litter all mixed together with topsoil.
  • Before germination, seeds are put in water and aerated with a fish tank bubbler “to introduce lots of oxygen into the water and to the seeds”.
  • “Avoid touching the fruit with your bare hands…Wear clean gloves if you must,” writes one grower. Apparently pumpkins can suffer viral problems if actually touched.
  • Growers keep diaries of daily measurements and progress of their plants
  • Dowsers are sometimes hired to find a source of underground water. Growing pumpkins get as much as a thousand gallons of water a day.
  • “Pumpkin cabanas” shade the actual fruit during mid-summer, while elaborate windbreaks protect them from the wind.
  • Special heating units are dug into the soil before transplanting outside, so that the soil can be heated from below and above.
  • One grower suggests treating transplants like newborn babies.
  • Avoid soil compaction in the pumpkin patch: “Wear snowshoes if you must.”

I’ve realized that I don’t have the right personality type for this hobby. I’m not meticulous enough, I don’t own a pick-up truck to cart the thing around, and I think I’d rather have a messy pumpkin patch with lots of small happy little pumpkins for making into pie. Is there a contest for the happiest pumpkin patch?

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Healthier Pumpkin Pie

This recipe uses arrowroot powder mixed with milk or soy milk in the place of eggs to thicken the filling. Sugar is substituted with maple syrup. The quantity of maple syrup used in this recipe is minimal. More can be added if you have a heavy sweet tooth, but do keep in mind that maple syrup is quite sweet. If you have problems with gluten any kind of gluten free flour can be used but I prefer the taste of spelt as an alternative to wheat.

Filling

  • 1 medium sized pumpkin or 1 can pumpkin puree
  • 3 tablespoons maple syrup (or more to taste)
  • 1 tsp ginger powder
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp fresh grated nutmeg (or nutmeg powder)
  • 1/8 tsp ground cloves
  • pinch of salt
  • 1/4 cup arrowroot powder
  • 1 cup milk or soy milk

Crust
(Makes enough for a bottom crust with decorative top.)

  • 2 cups spelt, kamut or whole wheat flour
  • 1/3 cup canola oil
  • 1/3 cup chilled butter
  • 6 tablespoon ice water

Crust option: a mix of half butter, half canola oil works best in my opinion, but all canola oil for a vegan pie also works very well.

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 325º F. Cut pumpkin(s) in half and remove seeds. Place cut side down on a tray and bake in the oven until the pumpkin is soft and easily poked with a fork. Scoop the flesh from the pumpkin and mash or puree in a food processor or blender. As an option I often bake the pumpkin(s) cut side up (so pumpkin half acts like a bowl) and sprinkle with half of the spices and a drizzle of maple syrup so that the flavours bake right into the pumpkin.
  2. While the pumpkin is cooking you can go ahead and prepare the crust. Mix together the flour, oil, butter and ice water. This can be done manually in a bowl or using a mixer. As an option different flour types can be used, but I prefer the nutty flavour of spelt.
  3. Divide the dough in half and roll between two pieces of plastic wrap or waxed paper.
  4. Dissolve the arrowroot powder in the milk using a blender or food processor until the mixture is smooth. Add the pumpkin, maple syrup, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and cloves, and blend to a smooth consistency. Pour the mixture into the pie crust.
  5. Roll out the remaining dough thinly. Use fall-themed cookie cutters (i.e leaves or turkeys) to create shapes that can be placed together on top of the pie to form a “top crust”. Place one shape in the center of the pie and form a ring of shapes around that central shape. Try to place the shapes so that they touch or join slightly.
  6. Bake for 35 minutes or until the crust is browned and the filling is slightly set. It is sometimes difficult to tell when spelt or whole wheat flours are browned but there will be a noticeable colour change. Don’t leave it in until it is too brown! This pie sets up nicely after the pie has been left to cool for a few hours. Do not worry if the centre appears too soft when it is first removed from the oven. This baby will thicken up due to the miracle coagulation powers of arrowroot.

More Options: The cookie cutter top makes for a fancy-looking pie that will impress your friends, but it isn’t necessary. You can always use the other half of the dough to make another pie!

I have also made these as “personal pies” done in 3″ tart tins with one cookie cut per tin. They’re really cute!

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