City Farming — New York Mag Article

In a recent New York Magazine feature entitled “My Empire of Dirt“, writer Manny Howard takes on the arduous task of growing a farm, complete with flora and fauna in his Brooklyn backyard to explore just what is involved in trying to feed himself locally for one month. The results are a humorous and slightly demoralizing mixed bag of mishaps, small rewards, freakish weather, and rabbit and chicken cannibalism which certainly makes for an interesting and sometimes horrifying read.

Eating local is expensive and time-consuming, which is why this consumerist movement will not easily trickle down into mass society. It requires a willful abstinence from convenience and plenty, a core promise of the modern world. Our bountiful era is predicated on the division of labor: We don’t sew our own clothes, we don’t build our own houses—and we certainly don’t farm—because we’re too busy doing whatever it is we do for everyone else.

The ensuing drama and general naiveté of the author would have left me rolling my eyes skeptically (it seems like every paper and magazine has a writer on board trying out these kinds of food-related ‘experiments’ lately) if he had not captured my heart just a little with his stubborn determination. In the end, the intensity of the experience left both he and his family with a hard won lesson in the value of good food and resolve to buy responsibly.

It wasn’t just a matter of buying regionally, or seasonally, or organically—the important thing was to consume responsibly.

I somehow doubt he will keep The Farm up at its current pace but I wonder if he will continue with the garden.

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Living in Toronto – Growing Heirloom Vegetables

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I had a TV crew here for about 2 hours one scorching hot and humid afternoon in August shooting a segment on heirloom vegetables for a show called “Living in Toronto.” There are other “Living ins” across Canada however the first is set to air tomorrow afternoon.

Details: CBC “Living in Toronto”, 1pm – 1:30pm.

My rooftop garden as seen from underneath the tent.

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Here I am with the segment producer Myrocia preparing for a tomato-tasting bit. Did I mention the unbearable heat and humidity? By the time this picture was taken I had completely given up on any attempt to look TV-ready. I had to dab my face with a towel between takes. Good times!

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Making Low-Sugar Pepper Jelly

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With both the gardens and the Farmer’s Market in abundance these days, it’s become canning central around here. I’m on a personal mission to find a use for just about everything. Last weekend was the whole 50 pounds of tomatoes insanity which resulted in approximately 28 various-sized jars of Roasted Tomato Sauce and Blackened Salsa Ranchera. Delicious! There will be no careful hoarding of sauce this winter. The weekend was begun with a quick canning of heirloom tomatoes collected from the gardens. And yesterday was all about jellies resulting in more 125mL jars of assorted herb and vegetable concoctions than a family of two (plus cat) can possibly consume in a year.

We cut refined sugar from our diets more than 5 years ago and since then I have shied away from making pickles (this used to be my forte), jams, and jellies due in part to the massive quantity of sugar required to make jelly gel. I have tried making sugar-free, temporary herb jellies using agar-agar (a seaweed that gels like Jello) with little luck. Actually, the result of these experiments have tasted just fine with a little added sweetener or fruit juice but has to be eaten almost immediately — good enough if you’re looking for a little taste but useless when you’re harvesting herbs by the boatload!

About a year ago I came across low-methoxyl pectin in the health food store. The brand I bought is called Pomona Pectin and is a two-part system that comes in powdered form just like regular brand-name pectins. The cool thing about this kind of pectin is that it gels with very little sweetener — perfect for diabetics or people like me who are watching their sugar intake. I’ve been experimenting with the product and it’s revolutionizing my world. Experimenting has meant a bit of trial and error but I’m beginning to find the hang of it. I started out using more sweetener than I’d like but am slowly getting more daring and making jellies that have less sugar. I’ve been too afraid to use honey for jelly (but have in the past for jam) because I’m concerned it will make a “chewy” jelly so I’ve instead broken my own rule about sugar and am using raw, unprocessed cane sugar. Using honey and maple syrup is next on my list of experiments.

I came up with the following pepper jelly recipe yesterday afternoon. I grow a lot of hot pepper plants in a quest for beautiful, tasty varieties that will grow well in containers. But on a personal level I have cut most super spicy foods from my diet and so has my spouse. We always have more hot peppers at the end of the season than we can possibly ingest in a lifetime. I give them away but feel kind of sad letting them go without getting more than a quick taste for the sake of research. I thought it would be fun to try making a mixed pepper jelly that uses just a few of my own homegrown peppers so I can feel like I got some personal use from them without destroying my digestive tract. I’ve looked at a lot of pepper jelly recipes in the past but they often rely on just peppers or some kind of super sweet twist. This version was inspired by the pepper/onion/lime juice flavors often brought together in salsa. I chopped all of the ingredients up really small and left them in the jelly but you can strain some of it out before jarring if you prefer a clearer jelly. We are loving this on crackers with cheese but I am planning to pull the jelly out with Mexican-style egg dishes like my personal favorite huevos divorciados.

Notes on using low-methyloxyl pectin: You will first need to mix up the calcium phosphate solution with water before you begin. Mix according to package directions and store in the fridge in a lidded jar.

When making jelly you will need about 1 tsp of the low-methoxyl pectin powder and 1 tsp of the calcium phosphate solution per cup of fruit or veggie liquid. My recipe came out to about 3 1/2 cups.

Mixing the low-methoxyl pectin powder with your choice in sweetener will make adding it to the mix much easier.

Notes about sterilization: Pre-wash your jars with sudsy water and sterilize both the jars and lids in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Turn the heat off but keep the jars and lids hot until the moment you fill them.

Place the jars into the water bath while it is still cool. Plopping cold jars into boiling water will make them explode.

Zippy Mixed Pepper and Lime Jelly

Ingredients:

  • Approximately 3 or 4 medium/large sweet bell peppers – I used a mix of red and purple. The goal here is to end up with about 2 cups of chopped pepper.
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • 3 hot peppers (Quantity depends on the heat of the peppers and the desired heat of the jelly. I used a hot variety called ‘Golden Nugget’)
  • 1 1/4 cups cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup lime juice
  • 1 cup cane sugar
  • 3 1/2 tsp low-methoxyl pectin
  • 3 1/2 tsp calcium phosphate solution

Method:

1. Remove the stems and seeds of the sweet peppers and loosely chop with a knife. Pop into a food processor and whiz until finely chopped.

2. Finely dice the hot peppers. Reserve some of the seeds if you prefer a hot and spicy jelly. I would advise that you wear rubber gloves to protect your hands (and later your eyes) from the pepper juice.

3. Measure out 2 cups of finely chopped sweet pepper and place in a pot with the diced onions, hot peppers, vinegar, and lime juice. Bring to a boil on high heat while gently stirring.

4. Measure out the cane sugar and low-methoxyl pectin powder and mix together in a bowl. Pour the mix into the pot and stir constantly with a whisk until the mix is dissolved and all lumps are gone.

5. Reduce the heat to low and simmer with the lid on for about 10 minutes.

6. Bring the temperature back up to high and boil the mixture hard for 1 minute.

7. Quickly mix in the calcium phosphate solution.

8. Remove from the heat and pour the jelly into hot, sterilized jars. Wipe the rims to remove any sticky residue.

9. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 5 minutes.

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This is What 50 Pounds of Tomatoes Looks Like

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Because I woke up this morning and said to myself, “Self, you do not have enough tomatoes. Must. Get. More. Between the bowls in the fridge, the bowls on the counter, the bowl that was just roasted, the bowl that was oven-dried, and the tomatoes still in the garden what you really need right now is another 50 odd pounds. Give or take a few. Mostly give.

Okay, that’s a lie. The real story is that I ordered these from the Sosnickis at the Farmer’s Market two weeks ago in a moment of weakness (aka insanity). I was only going to order 25 pounds but then I saw in the order book that my friend Jen had ordered 50 pounds so I figured if she was going to jump off a bridge into a lake of ripe, organic, roma tomatoes then so was I, damn it! And so I did. My order came in today.

Send help.

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Food That Hardly Travels at All

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A friend pointed me to this opinion piece in the New York Times that looks at the Eat Local concept as a way to mark environmental impact in food production. The article describes a New Zealand study that challenges the assumption that distance traveled automatically means higher fossil fuel consumption. The study doesn’t undermine the point that local eating advocates make but instead expands the way we are currently looking at energy use to include more factors that arise anywhere in the food production cycle including, “water use, harvesting techniques, fertilizer outlays, renewable energy applications, means of transportation (and the kind of fuel used), the amount of carbon dioxide absorbed during photosynthesis, disposal of packaging, storage procedures and dozens of other cultivation inputs.”

I’ve brought up this article here because although few of us as home gardeners are producing on a massive scale I see urban agriculture and growing food in our own backyards, on rooftops, community gardens, and waste spaces as a way to offset some of our own individual carbon input by eating about as local as it gets — literally stepping out our front or back doors to collect tonight’s dinner. And while that is awesome in itself I have noticed or at least pondered the impact my own small scale food production “systems” may have on the environment. While most of the “factor inputs and externalities” mentioned in the article do not apply to my style of food growing, there are other factors to consider. For example:

  • How much tap water do I use in my gardens?
  • What kind of packaging is used in products such as organic fertilizers, soil amenders, and container soiless mix? How is this packaging disposed?
  • Where do the ingredients in my container soils and amenders come from? For example, are any natural resources being plundered to provide the peat in my mix?
  • How far do these products need to travel in order to get to my garden?
  • What about the materials used to produce the containers I grow in? How far do they have to travel?
  • What about other materials used in the garden? i.e. Stakes, plastic ground covers, tools, etc?
  • What about the plants themselves? Are they high-impact energy suckers or are they suitable for this climate and the conditions that exist here?

Having looked at each of these factors I would say that their impact varies depending on the garden or type of garden. For example my community garden plot is in-ground and does not require things like purchased soil, and containers. I employ water-saving methods such as amending my soil, and applying mulch. It’s a fact that container gardens require more water than in-ground gardens and since I can not hook up a rainbarrel system to my apartment, the amount of water used directly from the tap is a whole lot higher than at my community garden plot regardless of how much I mulch the containers, employ water-wise tricks, use greywater, or run outside with buckets when it rains.

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I bought packaged soil amenders for the community garden this year and then transported them and myself in a cab from a local garden centre to the alleyway next to my plot. I don’t know where the amenders came from originally although I am hoping that since it was predominantly mushroom compost that it came from somewhere local — yeah it probably didn’t. So in the future I could look into where the amenders are from, buy amenders that are delivered to the curb without packaging, or rely soley on compost from the garden. Thankfully Davin and I have got more composters going at the community garden this year than ever before so that last one is very doable. I walk the bulk of my purchased soil amenders and container soils from the store to my gardens in a granny cart so no fossil fuel inputs there.

As far as containers and container soil goes I feel some relief in that I have been using the same containers and the same soil (with some supplementation of new soil, compost, and other amenders every spring) for several years and will continue to use them for years to come. Many of my containers are recycled items like dresser drawers found on the curb, broken watering cans and busted buckets or items purchased from thrift stores and yard sales.

While I don’t have a special calculating method set up to get a really accurate picture of how my gardens are doing against this sort of equation, through estimation I can guess that the food I grow myself is still generating a much smaller footprint than anything purchased at the grocery store. I’m not absolutely certain about how it holds up against much of the local produce I purchase weekly at the Farmers Market but I would guess that since I am doing a pretty good job of keeping most energy inputs low and adding in the fact that I walk or bike to both gardens and harvest everything by hand my total input has got to be lower still.

What about you? Can you think of any inputs I might be missing in this equation?

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