Bromeliads in the Valley of Desolation

Later this month I am giving a presentation to the Parkdale Horticultural Society on my trip to the West Indies. In preparation, I am striving to finish scanning all of the film photos I took, not including the Polaroids, because frankly, I’ve got to draw the line somewhere or I’ll never be done.

I’m doing this scanning in the background, while writing and working on other topics, most specifically a third book (with a deadline that is coming up all too soon) that has absolutely nothing to do with this trip. It’s a strange form of multi-tasking. Working my way through the images in quick succession is a sort-of re-living of the sights and experiences, and it is also bringing back emotions I felt at the time while also reconnecting me to older emotions related to my family. I wish I had more time to devote to this specifically right now, but alas there are only so many waking hours in the day.

Anyways, I am just now working my way through the film photos I took on our 8 hour hike to and from the Boiling Lake. This is one of my most memorable experiences from the trip and one I’d LOVE to experience again. My favorite part of the hike was the trek across the Valley of Desolation, also shown here. I didn’t want to leave and lingered for a few minutes on the way out before turning my back on this incredible landscape, possibly forever.

There are stories, of course, rumors of people staying in the valley overnight and dying from the fumes. A place with such a biblical name is bound to inspire the imagination. The energy and volatility there was like travelling back in time to the earth’s beginnings, just after land and plant life had formed.

There was no lava, but there was bubbling mud. The smoke in the photo is sulphur. I could see it escaping all around me through vents. And feel it and hear it underneath my feet; sometimes without seeing it. And smell it. Oh, could I smell it. In fact, I lived with the smell of sulphur in the air during most of my stay in Dominica. It was strongest at night when the breeze picked it up and carried it down from the Roseau Valley. In St. Lucia we stayed in Soufriere, just around the way from another stinking sulphurous caldera. The smell seemed to collect and concentrate in our bedroom at night. The first night I smelled it was before our early morning decent to the Boiling Lake and I have to admit that I couldn’t rest, worried that I’d slip away quietly in my sleep from the noxious-smelling gas like one of those campers. I do not miss that rotten egg smell.

Despite the name, there was life in the Valley of Desolation. The most common plant is the bromeliad pictured above. It literally covered the mountainside and dotted the landscape that we walked across. It is endemic to this very place — you won’t see it anywhere else in the world. After doing extensive searching online, I believe it is called, Pitcairnia micotrinensis, although I am not absolutely, 100% certain. I’m a pretty decent researcher, but I am no botanist.

I’d love to go back when it is blooming! The flowers are yellow and white. Can you imagine the display? Wouldn’t that be something to see?!

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When I Was a Young Girl

“But people are always speculating — why am I as I am? To understand that of any person, his whole life, from birth, must be reviewed. All of our experiences fuse into our personality. Everything that ever happened to us is an ingredient.”

- Malcolm X.

I believe I’ve published that quote before, but it’s so relevant here I felt I had to add it again. I spent most of my life carrying a heavy weight of shame about where I come from and I think I tried subconsciously to hide the fact of it for most of the years I’ve been writing here. This became especially true when people started asking me about my relationship to gardening as a child and I did not know how to answer (I still get this question all the time). I started to resent the feeling that people didn’t want to hear the truth. But I wonder, is that really true, or is it that I was just too afraid to tell it?

I wrote about my childhood experiences elsewhere, but kept it away from here. I think in my mind that was my dark side and this is my light side. I am a public figure of sorts, and I came to believe (in a way) that I was supposed to be sanitized. Funny how we see gardening, an act that very literally involves getting dirty, to be so squeaky clean.

Over the last few years I’ve been pushing myself to bring the dark over here, too. It’s all me. Just different parts of me. Sometime ago I started writing little stories off the top of my head about the places I lived throughout my childhood. I never intended to post them here, but these stories say a lot about my adult relationship to nature, my perspective on gardening, and the kind of gardener I’ve become.

This first story begins with a house we lived in for a very short time just before I turned six years old and then goes off into a tangent about what I have previously described as the “…middling working class townhouse complex” I lived in for most of my childhood.

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The very first thing I remember about the house was the springtime garden. This makes very little sense since we moved in late fall, Halloween night to be exact. And yet I don’t remember a single thing about the house (or my life during that time) until that first spring. I clearly recall stepping into the yard. There was a birch tree with peeling white bark and a bigger tree, possibly a maple, big enough for a swing. My parents installed one soon after; the seat was blue plastic with a yellow nylon rope that wrapped around a strong vertical branch. Later, it would hang from ceiling beams in the basement of a townhouse with a postage stamp-sized yard, in an ugly, lifeless subdivision where the trees were too small and weak to support a swing.

In the yard, there were red and yellow tulips growing alongside the fence. I remember that. And I knew what they were too, although I don’t know how—I was only five then and had never had one pointed out to me as far as I can remember. Where did this knowledge come from? I still wonder, but by my best guess: library books and Sesame Street. [Thank you Sesame Street for showing me young that learning was fun.]

The earth smelled fresh in that springtime yard, and there were other plants as well, but I didn’t know what they were at the time and I don’t remember them now. Daffodils perhaps? Yellow comes to mind. I liked to dig. A wooden sandbox was constructed and later filled up with sand stolen from the big pile at the canal dry docks. The sandbox reminds me a lot of my first raised bed garden, come to think of it. There was no bottom so we could dig straight down into the earth below. And we often did until the sand was a muddied mess. That sandbox made its way to the townhouse too, again without a bottom and we kids spent countless hours mining below the sand for clay and ant nests. I envied other kids’ clean sandboxes until I realized they’d never get the chance to dig up clay or try to make an escape hatch to China.

That was about the closest we came to nature living in the subdivision.

Another fun thing we liked to do was pick potato bugs from underneath the front stoop and then race them. This is no easy task since too much prodding of a racer could make it curl up into a protective ball. Race over. It was a grand day when we found a toad or a snake underneath there. They lived in the fallow field behind the Towers/Food City plaza nearby, but would sometimes find their way into our lifeless world. That field was my personal Valhalla. I longed to go there and play, but wasn’t allowed. My childhood geography extended from the front door to the sidewalk, left to the parking lot, up to a small hill in the middle of the subdivision (as long as I stayed out of the parking lot) and the tiny backyard. But the fallow field was full of mysteries and it is no doubt that this is where my love for scrubby, fallow lots, weedy meadows, and muddy wetlands comes from. The expanse behind the Towers had all of that and more. There was a pond that appeared in the early spring when the snow melted and rains filled up the crater. I regularly begged to go there and see thousands of tiny toad tadpoles squirming along the shallow edges.

Another favorite thing to do was visit the young scientist section of the public library searching for books to spark my imagination. I spent almost the whole of our visit down on the floor flipping through picture books of frog lifecycles, unusual pets, or beekeeping, carefully choosing the next books to come home with me. The best were presented like stories, with smiling, inquisitive families who indulged in the learning process together. I longed to be one of those kids and imagined myself slopping around in a big pond searching out leopard frog eggs and scooping the gelatinous mass into a net to take home and watch as they hatched into tadpoles. Eventually, through the magic of metamorphosis, the tadpoles would form legs, arms, lose their tails, and turn into real frogs. On the final page, the family always carefully returned the frogs to the pond, because it was the right thing to do.

We keep tadpoles once, too. Toads though; not frogs. And they did form legs, then arms. Eventually their tails shrunk and we let them out in the yard. The same happy ending did not happen for the big, slimy dew worms I collected off the lawn one night. They dried to a crisp inside a yellow margarine container on the back patio.

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Essence Fragile

We’ve finally had all of the film from our Caribbean trip developed and I now have the arduous task of scanning it all before the end of September (27th), when I will be giving a presentation, here in Toronto, of some of the botanical images.

I took this photo while on a tour of an organic farm in Bellvue Chopin — the one with the cute land turtles pictured here.

The plant is Polygala paniculata, also known as ‘Essence Fragile’ in Dominica. It’s a medicinal herb that is often added to baby’s bathwater as it is believed to help their bones “knit.”

The roots smell of fresh wintergreen!

You can see mountain in the background of this photo. Mountains are in the background of every photo I took in Dominica, unless I was facing the coast. Mountains, mountains everywhere. No matter where you are on the island, you are always going either up or down a steep hill. And it is always hot and incredibly humid. It made San Francisco seem like a cakewalk.

Imagine farming in 365 days-a-year heat and humidity, with access to few resources, weeds that NEVER stop growing, and all on steep hills, no less. I’ve seen mountainside, terraced farming once before (Agave in Oaxaca Mexico), but the logistics of farming in Dominica still came as a shock.

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One Life to Live: A Wish List

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

This post is a little off topic and not exactly related to gardening. Please indulge me as I go off on a completely decadent, shoe-gazing tangent for a moment. Ignoring is also an option. Please also note that I wrote the bulk of this before my birthday last week so the tense is a bit off. One of my goals way back when was to stop spreading myself around and to bring more into this site, even if it doesn’t always fit neatly into the “GARDENING” package. I do try to stay on topic most days.

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It’s my birthday this week and it’s got me on the subject of how I want to spend the year until my next birthday rolls around. 37 is feeling like a big one for me. Like I am poised for a lot of change that I can’t yet determine. When I was younger, I imagined that 33 would be my best year, ever: an ideal age. I imagined that by 33 I would be, “…kicking so much ass!” What that said for the years after 33, I do not know. I only managed to get that far in my imaginings. Back then, my version of kicking ass meant feeling comfortable with myself, feeling accomplished in my work, and not putting up with or eating anymore shit. That is how Gayla at Age 33 looked to me. And then 33 rolled around and it was the year of the TV show that went wrong and other perceived failures, and I spent the remainder of the year carrying around a lot of anger and feeling generally AWKWARD. So 33 wasn’t all that to be sure.

Last year I turned 36. I suddenly felt OLD. It was like I had stepped over an invisible line and whoa, what the hell just happened there? I now have a prominent streak of grey hair on my left side, which I’m really not complaining about. I like it enough as far as grey hair goes. It’s just that sudden physical changes are a bit freaky. I lost a lot of friends at a young age so I became aware of the very real possibility of death and dying earlier than most. But last year I suddenly became more conscious of my mortality in a physical way. That said, I don’t mean for this to be a diatribe on growing older. For the most part I like getting older and look forward to what’s yet to come. I very much appreciate everything that experience has taught me, for better and for worse. I like the person I am now a hell of a lot more than the person I was at 25. Or 30. Or at 33, come to think of it.

I am much closer to achieving that ideal I imagined I’d reach at 33. But it’s a slightly shifted ideal, one that has changed as I have changed and my desires and expectations have matured. I enjoy things more. I find more joy in little details and in the work I do. I’m much less afraid and much more able to see what scares me and push against it effectively. Or still be kind of screwed up about certain things and be okay with that, knowing I’ll figure it out eventually. Or not. Because I’m also a bit more comfortable with my fallibility. I am more conscious of my needs and better able to say no to the things I need to say no to. And saying no doesn’t feel so much like I’m strapping on a pair of boots and going to war as a result. Because I’m also more comfortable with the fact that some people won’t like it when I do. I’m mostly okay with being perceived as a “bitch” sometimes. I hate the subtext behind that word. Being able to say no when I need to has also opened up the possibility for saying yes more often, too. At 36, going on 37 (now going on 38. yikes), I do feel more at ease with myself and accomplished. And I do believe that I am in fact eating far less shit.

All of this to say that my pal Karen recently celebrated a birthday. And on her blog she talks about making this the Year That She Becomes A Woman of a Certain Age. I was very inspired by the post and the way she has defined her goals for the year. Several years ago, when I kept a photoblog that was also more or less a journal, I wrote a list of “Things I Want to Do Before I Die”. It was a vague list as I did not expect that I would accomplish all of those things in my lifetime. It was more or less a guide post for what I might like to do and a kick in the pants to make some of them happen. Inspired by Karen (again), I thought I would resurrect that list and continue it here, the week of my 37th birthday. Some items from the old list have made it to this one and a few have even been accomplished. I did not include anything too personal, because I do believe in keeping some aspects of my life private, and I very much doubt you’d care to know regardless.

Not surprisingly, a good many of the items on my list have to do with travel, food, and PLANTS.

Read more…

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Seasoning Peppers

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

In the Caribbean, that’s what they call peppers that look like hot peppers but aren’t. Although, I have also heard the term used with hot peppers, too. I suspect they really are hot, just not by West Indian standards. All of these were hot, let me tell you, and incredibly aromatic. But hot, ho yeah, at least by my standards.

There was a time when I took pride in my ability to withstand the hottest hot peppers, but those days are long gone. My nearly middle aged digestive system would rather not, thank you ever so much and good night. I like growing hot peppers, and it is always fun to discover a new variety, but these days I enjoy them in small doses.

The green peppers in this photo were a gift from Stevie, Not Wonder. The little peppers were found growing on a bush behind our cottage. The rest were collected here and there. Pepper bushes are fantastically huge in the Caribbean heat. They grow on and on into perpetuity and are not hard to come by.

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