Gardening and Canning Workshops (May 2010)

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This growing season, I have teamed up with friend and experienced gardener/plantsman Barry Parker to offer hands on gardening and canning workshops in Toronto. We’ve started off with 3 workshops in the month of May and plan to offer a few more later in the season based on interest, time, etc.

The great thing about handling these workshops in our own venue is that we have the chance to organize them how we’d like and make the call on class sizes, etc. Over the years, I have found that I prefer to teach in small groups so that everyone gets the personal touch. This includes little extras like tea and snacks for classes that run long or through meal times and lots of time to ask questions and receive one-on-one attention. Additionally, the workshops will be held right in Barry’s beautiful and inspiring garden. Canning workshops will be conducted around a professional, restaurant-sized stove with lots of room for attendees to participate in all aspects of canning and move around freely within the space.

We’re pretty excited to be doing this and hope you’ll join us this year.

If you have any questions beyond the descriptions, feel free to email.

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Yellow Tomatillo

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I made this batch into a plain salsa and canned it for use later this winter.

See also: Tomatillo Husks

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Snack Foods for the Apocalypse

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This is how I see canning: making snack foods for the apocalypse. Because in truth, with the exception of the plain tomato jars and sauces, many of the items I put up tend to be condiments, pickles, and intense fruit preserves — food I could probably live without. If, say, we were to suffer through an ice storm or prolonged power outage this winter, I’m not sure how long we would stay alive on tomato salsa, brandied peaches, elderberry syrup, and chutney.

Although, that’s hardly the point, is it? I’m not really putting up food for emergency preparedness. It’s really about having that extra something special to enjoy during the off season. That and the fact that the process of canning makes me feel good.

I canned up a storm this summer. It’s really not appropriate to speak of it in the past tense because frankly, I’m not done yet. I went way overboard this year, and even put up a few batches of foods I won’t and can’t eat myself. I think the reason why I went so nutty was that I needed a come-down off of the book project that was active and creative. I didn’t feel like doing any of my regular go-to creative outlets. I just wanted to play with food.

I’ve been canning long enough that it has become like meditation in motion. It’s one of those activities that allows me to focus one part of my brain on the doing while another part relaxes and opens up. I gave myself permission this year to jar up anything that caught my interest and experiment to my heart’s content rather than sticking to healthier fare. For that reason I was able to be much more creative and at times even focused on making purely aesthetically pleasing jars rather than worrying about the nutritional content.

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This is my current favourite jar, pickled crab apples. It is the only thing I have ever canned that I couldn’t (and still can’t) visualize as a flavour. I used the blemish-free crab apples that I had schlepped all the way from Montreal. They were perfect for it. I followed a book recipe exactly, rather than experimenting with my own ideas and flavours (how I usually do it). The recipe called for both vinegar and a TON of sugar. This is not something I would ever make in a typical year but I made it anyways. And it was so worth it. Man, is this jar beautiful.

I know that making food I won’t or can’t eat makes no sense and sounds wasteful, and if it were another year I would not have gone that route. However, I can’t tell you how many times I have stood, savoring the visual delight of those pretty jars and it’s not even fall yet. During the winter months I occasionally sit on the kitchen floor next to the main storage cupboard (everything else is stashed away in boxes here and there) and pull out several jars, soaking in the colours that are so desperately lacking in mid-January. I’ll give away the extra food we can’t eat as gifts to friends who will enjoy them, so why not?

As a part of my series on kitchen gardening (scroll down to where it says “Microfarming with Gayla Trail”), The Globe & Mail recently published an article I wrote on canning tomatoes, including three recipes: plain tomatoes, catsup, and green tomato chutney. You can also see a slide show of me canning in my cramped kitchen. Proof that you do not need a lot of space to can.

I also gave a workshop on canning tomatoes at The Workroom last Friday. Karyn has done an amazing job recapping the event on her blog. She also recounted her follow-up experience here.

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Weck: Fancy Pants Canning Jars

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Since the harvest season has got underway I’ve been doing quite a bit of canning. Canning in a small, claustrophobic apartment kitchen can get a little gnarly at times but I actually enjoy the process quite a bit. I feel like I’m getting one over The Man with every jar that seals. I always appreciate the effort come winter and have been surprised to find myself sitting on the floor on more than one occasion fondling the multi-colored jars of this and that tucked into the bottom shelves of a kitchen cupboard. As a kid I never could have dreamed it would come to this. That so many years later I would become someone who grows food AND puts food by. And who understands the meaning of the term. And uses it in sentences. I haven’t reached that hyper-perfectionist Fall Fair level yet but I can see giving it a go one day in the future. For the kicks!

My first forays into canning began about a decade or so ago with dill pickles and has since expanded into chutneys, jams, jellies, ketchup, salsa and just about anything that is safe to preserve in a regular boiling-water-bath canner. I don’t have a pressure canner but I’ve found myself day dreaming about getting one recently. I just don’t know where on earth I would put it! The big canning kettle is taking up enough space as it is.

This year I decided to splash out and buy some fancy canning jars. Why are all of the standard hardware store brands so UGLY? I especially dislike the cluster of fruit motif stuck on most small 1/4 pint jelly jars. You can cover the lids but those designs are debossed right into the glass. Any proper home canning jar will get the job done but aesthetically pleasing jars are just a little bit more satisfying to behold.

And so I looked around for the prettiest jars I could find, settling on a couple of boxes of expensive but gorgeous German made Weck jars. And they are gorgeous. But boy are they hard to come by. I was only able to find them online at Lehman’s, a store that sells all sorts of incredible old fashioned gadgetry. The catalogue is really fun to browse. Just yesterday I found myself getting excited about a bottle capper even though I don’t drink soda. It caps bottles! Imagine that.

Anyways, back to the Weck jars. The frugal in me refused to chance expensive shipping rates and so I tried looking around locally for a time instead. Unfortunately I couldn’t find anything in the city but when I went back to place an order canning season was already in full swing and they had sold out of some of the sizes and shapes I had hoped for. Lesson #1: Get your canning supplies WAY before canning season starts. Every year I say I will do this and then every year I underestimate how much I will need when the time comes which inevitably leads me to run out to my local hardware store where they have jacked up the rates preying on desperate canners and where the selection is down to the tackiest jar designs. Lord I am picky.

In the end I managed to purchase 4- 1 litre deco jars and 4- 1/2 litre tulip jars. I really wanted the petite jars for my jellies but only now realize that Lehman’s had them in stock but I overlooked it on the site. Dang it!

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

My jars arrived yesterday afternoon. They really are beautiful. My first thought was to determine what was good enough for them. They’re so special and I only have a few. I wanted my inaugural canning session with them to be something special that will be best suited to the shape and size. The goal of canning couldn’t be more practical yet I’ve gone and shifted it into the realm of vanity making what goes in the jars less important than what looks GOOD in the jars. That’s one step closer to anal retentive Fall Fair ribbon winner.

I eventually decided to try canning up another batch of heirloom tomatoes in the larger 1 litre jar. I figured that the rich color and simple pear shape of ‘Japanese Black Trifele’ Tomato would be beautiful through the glass, matching the curves of the jar. I also thought it best to do my trial run with something I’ve got some experience with so I can make comparisons. I have some fidgety old blue glass Masons that I’ve been using for years but the Weck system is still a bit different. There is no screw lid. The entire jar is glass, including the lid. It is sealed with a rubber gasket which is held in place with two metal clips throughout the heat processing steps. The clips are then removed once a vacuum seal has been created inside the jar, leaving you with a very sleek and simple shape devoid of any metal that can potentially rust on the shelf.

The canning procedure wasn’t unlike canning with old glass Mason jars but it was a bit trickier. I found the shape of the jars and the lids harder to pick up with my standard jar lifting equipment. The jar mouths are a lot wider, which is great for cleanly getting food into the jar but not so great for lifting. The deco shaped jar was especially difficult because it did not have a real lip for the jar lifter to grab onto. The jars did not fit into my standard size rack so there was a lot of worried fumbling with jar lifters and tongs getting the jars into and out of the hot water bath. Like the vintage glass Mason jars I found it difficult to determine if a proper seal has been achieved. With no two part metal system to make that familiar POP, you can only really go on intuition, the position of the rubber lip (which should face down) and the strength of the lid once the clips are removed.

For those reasons I would not suggest these jars for beginners but I think the smaller petite jars would be easier to manage. Still, if you’re new to canning and are nervous about safety I would recommend sticking to the metal lid jars. And if you’re an intermediate or advanced canner the only other issue is the prohibitively expensive cost. I figure I will have to can with these every year for the rest of my life to get real value from them. Canning isn’t just about saving money but that’s certainly a pretty big factor and at over $6.00 a jar plus shipping these are not what I would consider a frugal or thrifty choice. They would make nice gifts although I have to say I think I will be saving these for myself.

What foods are you putting up this year?

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Making Low-Sugar Pepper Jelly

pepperjelly.jpg

With both the gardens and the Farmer’s Market in abundance these days, it’s become canning central around here. I’m on a personal mission to find a use for just about everything. Last weekend was the whole 50 pounds of tomatoes insanity which resulted in approximately 28 various-sized jars of Roasted Tomato Sauce and Blackened Salsa Ranchera. Delicious! There will be no careful hoarding of sauce this winter. The weekend was begun with a quick canning of heirloom tomatoes collected from the gardens. And yesterday was all about jellies resulting in more 125mL jars of assorted herb and vegetable concoctions than a family of two (plus cat) can possibly consume in a year.

We cut refined sugar from our diets more than 5 years ago and since then I have shied away from making pickles (this used to be my forte), jams, and jellies due in part to the massive quantity of sugar required to make jelly gel. I have tried making sugar-free, temporary herb jellies using agar-agar (a seaweed that gels like Jello) with little luck. Actually, the result of these experiments have tasted just fine with a little added sweetener or fruit juice but has to be eaten almost immediately — good enough if you’re looking for a little taste but useless when you’re harvesting herbs by the boatload!

About a year ago I came across low-methoxyl pectin in the health food store. The brand I bought is called Pomona Pectin and is a two-part system that comes in powdered form just like regular brand-name pectins. The cool thing about this kind of pectin is that it gels with very little sweetener — perfect for diabetics or people like me who are watching their sugar intake. I’ve been experimenting with the product and it’s revolutionizing my world. Experimenting has meant a bit of trial and error but I’m beginning to find the hang of it. I started out using more sweetener than I’d like but am slowly getting more daring and making jellies that have less sugar. I’ve been too afraid to use honey for jelly (but have in the past for jam) because I’m concerned it will make a “chewy” jelly so I’ve instead broken my own rule about sugar and am using raw, unprocessed cane sugar. Using honey and maple syrup is next on my list of experiments.

I came up with the following pepper jelly recipe yesterday afternoon. I grow a lot of hot pepper plants in a quest for beautiful, tasty varieties that will grow well in containers. But on a personal level I have cut most super spicy foods from my diet and so has my spouse. We always have more hot peppers at the end of the season than we can possibly ingest in a lifetime. I give them away but feel kind of sad letting them go without getting more than a quick taste for the sake of research. I thought it would be fun to try making a mixed pepper jelly that uses just a few of my own homegrown peppers so I can feel like I got some personal use from them without destroying my digestive tract. I’ve looked at a lot of pepper jelly recipes in the past but they often rely on just peppers or some kind of super sweet twist. This version was inspired by the pepper/onion/lime juice flavors often brought together in salsa. I chopped all of the ingredients up really small and left them in the jelly but you can strain some of it out before jarring if you prefer a clearer jelly. We are loving this on crackers with cheese but I am planning to pull the jelly out with Mexican-style egg dishes like my personal favorite huevos divorciados.

Notes on using low-methyloxyl pectin: You will first need to mix up the calcium phosphate solution with water before you begin. Mix according to package directions and store in the fridge in a lidded jar.

When making jelly you will need about 1 tsp of the low-methoxyl pectin powder and 1 tsp of the calcium phosphate solution per cup of fruit or veggie liquid. My recipe came out to about 3 1/2 cups.

Mixing the low-methoxyl pectin powder with your choice in sweetener will make adding it to the mix much easier.

Notes about sterilization: Pre-wash your jars with sudsy water and sterilize both the jars and lids in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Turn the heat off but keep the jars and lids hot until the moment you fill them.

Place the jars into the water bath while it is still cool. Plopping cold jars into boiling water will make them explode.

Zippy Mixed Pepper and Lime Jelly

Ingredients:

  • Approximately 3 or 4 medium/large sweet bell peppers – I used a mix of red and purple. The goal here is to end up with about 2 cups of chopped pepper.
  • 1/4 cup chopped onion
  • 3 hot peppers (Quantity depends on the heat of the peppers and the desired heat of the jelly. I used a hot variety called ‘Golden Nugget’)
  • 1 1/4 cups cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup lime juice
  • 1 cup cane sugar
  • 3 1/2 tsp low-methoxyl pectin
  • 3 1/2 tsp calcium phosphate solution

Method:

1. Remove the stems and seeds of the sweet peppers and loosely chop with a knife. Pop into a food processor and whiz until finely chopped.

2. Finely dice the hot peppers. Reserve some of the seeds if you prefer a hot and spicy jelly. I would advise that you wear rubber gloves to protect your hands (and later your eyes) from the pepper juice.

3. Measure out 2 cups of finely chopped sweet pepper and place in a pot with the diced onions, hot peppers, vinegar, and lime juice. Bring to a boil on high heat while gently stirring.

4. Measure out the cane sugar and low-methoxyl pectin powder and mix together in a bowl. Pour the mix into the pot and stir constantly with a whisk until the mix is dissolved and all lumps are gone.

5. Reduce the heat to low and simmer with the lid on for about 10 minutes.

6. Bring the temperature back up to high and boil the mixture hard for 1 minute.

7. Quickly mix in the calcium phosphate solution.

8. Remove from the heat and pour the jelly into hot, sterilized jars. Wipe the rims to remove any sticky residue.

9. Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 5 minutes.

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