Crispy Shallots, Shallot Oil, and Cookbooks

Recently, the addition of an island/counter that has suddenly provided me with more counter space than I have ever had before, as well as the well-timed arrival of an indulgent purchase of newly published cookbooks has us spending whole days in the kitchen. I am always drawn to the kitchen in other people’s homes. It’s the room I always seem to migrate to and camp out in for the duration during a party. I can’t express how happy I am now to have a counter that offers me the chance to spread out a little while I cook and can, as well as the space to perch and socialize when Davin is doing the work.

Now, on those books. I’m slowly making my way through the pile, savouring each one. I began first with two that feature South East Asian home cooking: Burma: Rivers of Flavor by Naomi Duguid and Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan. The first, “Burma,” is my favourite sort of cookbook, with as much put into telling personal stories and offering a small window into a culture through beautiful images as it is a manual for cooking good food. “Vietnamese Home Cooking” is not a travel journal, but it does have a personable element to it that includes beautiful photographs taken by photographer Eric Wolfinger. I have already used the advice in this book to successfully purchase my first set of cleavers and tightly wrap a proper spring roll.

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Roof Garden Tour (Back Wall, June 2010)

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Click the image to see full-size.

As I begin to get the gardens sorted, I figured it was time to start showing what I’ve been up to all of these months. I’ve been growing on the roof since March; however, in a small space I don’t have a hidden area to put the in progress stuff or the plants that are still sitting in their plastic pots. Things have been simply too chaotic to get out a camera and document.

The back wall is looking nice right now so I thought I would begin with that. As I mentioned yesterday, this is the shadiest part of the roof. It’s where I put the plants that require partial shade or are in the process of being hardened off. I like the old brick, it provides a nice backdrop for the greenery. Of course, this brick also absorbs heat during the day and releases it at night. This can be a positive in the early spring when the night temperatures sometimes drop very low. In the summer it means that while the spot is shadier, it can get too warm for plants that are sensitive heat. I learned my lesson about this the hard way about a decade ago when I bought a coleus specifically because it matched the brick. The poor plant couldn’t take the heat and kept wilting.

The other negative are the starlings that nest directly above that shelving unit. While I like their cheerful songs (and this year they have learned to mimic cat meowing), they often drop items from the nest onto the plants, including their poo. It’s not the best place to keep culinary herbs.

Be sure to open the image full size to get a better view of what’s there. Starting from the top left are a number of succulents, agave, and auricula. I’ve acquired three more since that last post. Next to the agave in the tin can is a small pot of curly chives (Allium spirale) I bought at Richters Herbs back in February. It took a while but I’ve finally determined that this plant can’t take full sun like regular chives (Allium schoenoprasum). It’s been much happier since I moved it to the wall.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Next to that (behind) is ‘Mulberry’ viola and the plant in front is Eucomis aka pineapple lily. Moving on, we have a variegated scented geranium ‘Charity’ (Pelargonium) against the wall, ‘Variegated Peppermint’ in front of that, and a diminutive little rusty/chocolate coloured geranium whose name I can’t recall in the foreground growing in an enamel bowl. I punched holes into the bottom with a nail.

Next to the scented geranium (along the wall) is a myrtle (Myrtus communis) topiary. The trick to keeping it happy is to keep the soil moist. In front of that is another ‘Mulberry’ viola with a little ‘Citrus’ thyme (Thymus x citriodorus) in the foreground. Returning to the back wall, I’ve got a tender little lavender that I have learned through trial and error does not like it out in the hot sun. It’s been much happier against the wall but it’s needs are confusing and seem to go against the grain of so many lavenders I have grown. I bought it on impulse at a corner store about a month ago on a dreary, wet day when I must have needed some cheer. And in front of that plant is ‘Rau Ram’ aka Vietnamese coriander.

As you can see, I’ve got a few plants sitting on lower shelves. Those plants are in transition and need even more protection right now. On the left is ‘Corsican’ mint. I am watching it like a hawk right now because I failed to keep one alive last year over at my community garden. I think my failing there was in soil drainage so I’m keeping this one in a pot. Next to it is Calibrachoa ‘Double Lemon’, a flowering plant so close to petunia that I never thought I would grow one, let alone buy it with my own money. It turns out I could not resist the soft yellow of this double form flower. Who knew? I will post a close up photo of this later in the season. Over to the right are two new baby agaves that I got from Barry. I’m sure they can go out in a sunnier spot now, I just haven’t had a chance to repot. He actually grew these plants from seed!

Phew. Okay, that finishes the shelving unit. Phew. Now do you see why I am so overwhelmed? This list represents one small corner of one garden. So many plants! I both love it and freak myself out about it.

Moving on. My new Japanese Maple is in the beige pot just to the right of the shelving until. It is under-planted with little ‘Gem Antique Shades’ violas, one of my favourite varieties. There is a tiny Oxalis squamata located just in front of it and two oxalis plants to the right, ‘Burgundy Gold’ and ‘Zinfandel’. The plant with yellow flowers in the green pot is a spotted hawkweed (Hieracium). Next to that is a variegated ‘Pink Lemonade’ lemon tree. It is very happy outdoors and producing new little lemons. In front of that in a red pot is ANOTHER oxalis siliquosa ‘Sunset Velvet’, and at the end white sage (Salvia alpiana) that is flanked with little yellow-flowered oxalis that came up as volunteers. White sage is not hardy here — I been overwintering this one indoors for a few years now.

Finally, sitting on the window ledge is a terracotta box filled with pansies and violas. I believe they are also ‘Gem Antique Shades,’ but I specifically chose to plant only the lighter colours of the bunch. That’s why you can see much darker reds in the flowers growing underneath the Japanese Maple.

See also: Roof Tour 2009

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Spring Ramps

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Ramps, aka wild leeks, are a wild North American onion-like plant that pop up in forested areas in early-mid spring. The season for ramps is short, typically no more than a few weeks between April and May depending on your location.

Believe me when I say that they are GOOD. Ramps resemble scallions except that the leaves are large and flat at the top rather than tubular. I’d describe the taste as an earthy onion or leek with the flavor of tender young garlic dominating. The garlic smell is strong with this one — our entire apartment reeks of it when we’re preparing them as does anyone who consumes them raw.

Ramps are best used in place of leeks or onions. Look for recipes in which either ingredient is the star of the show such as potato and ramp soup, ramp pesto, ramp butter, or ramp pizza. I’m considering this Fiddlehead Ramp Risotto since we currently have both on hand.

If you happen upon a seller at a farmers’ market this weekend I suggest snatching a big bundle up as fast as you can — I arrived too late at my local market last week and missed out completely. This week I made sure to get there early and grabbed up 2 lbs so we would have enough to preserve and enjoy in the coming months. There was no way I was going to go without this year. We concocted a homemade spelt gnocchi with fresh pea and ramp pesto dish last spring that quickly became our favourite way to use them up. And then we each gained 10 lbs. I’ve been salivating over day dreams of that dish for an entire year. Of course I did not write it down as I made it, but will write it up here when I’ve got it figured out, again.

Preserving Ramps

There are lots of ways to preserve ramps, from canning to pickling to kimchi, but I prefer freezing. The leaves turn mushy and a little bit gross after freezing but the bulbs are fine. To get around the problem, I freeze the bulbs whole but turn the leaves into pesto.

  1. Slice off the roots and discard. Chop the bulb off and separate from the green leaves.
  2. Wash and dry the bulbs and freeze them whole, packed into freezable containers or baggies.
  3. Loosely chop the remaining green leaves and wash. Dry them thoroughly using a salad spinner or a towel.
  4. Finely chop the leaves in a food processor with a dash of salt and a few splashes of olive oil (about 3-4 cups leaves to a 1/2 cup of oil). The goal is to create a moist, spreadable paste. It shouldn’t be dripping, but it shouldn’t be dry either.
  5. You can add cheese and nuts to make a true pesto paste but I prefer to leave mine plain to keep it flexible for all sorts of uses.
  6. Pack into small baggies or small freezable containers and freeze. You can also portion it out by freezing in ice cube trays and later popping them into long term storage containers once they’ve formed into hardened cubes.

Cook small amounts of the bulbs and leaves together, or use separately as you see fit. The leaves tend to have a milder flavour than the bulbs, but are less flexible because of the added olive oil.

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Allium (After the Rain)

Photo by Gayla Trail

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