Insecticides Safe Enough to Eat (if you must)


The reality of any kind of gardening is that at some point you WILL encounter pests. While there are hundreds of products lining the shelves of your local garden centre designed to erradicate bugs from the garden, you probably have ingredients in your own kitchen that will do an effective job without contaminating the foodchain or harming the environment.

Try these simple recipes the next time you find an unwanted creepy crawly making a meal of your future meal.

*Note: Before embarking on a bug killing tirade get to know the bugs in your garden. There are plenty of insects living in your mini ecosystem that are beneficial to preserving the sanctity of your space. Knowing which bugs are “good” and those that are “not-so-good” will aid you over the long run.

Smellerific Citrus Peel Spray

Use:
Soft bodied insects such as aphids, mites, and caterpillars.

You’ll Need:

  • 4 cups of boiled water
  • Chopped peel of 1 citrus fruit (orange or lemon)
  • Thin strainer
  • Funnel
  • Spray bottle

Directions:

  1. Steep the chopped orange or lemon peel overnight in the boiling water.
  2. Strain your citrus brew through a thin-meshed strainer. Be sure to capture all the particles to avoid clogging your sprayer.
  3. Funnel the liquid into a spray bottle and use.

Non-Edible Variation:
Try adding 1 tsp dish soap or insecticidal soap (something without fragrances and additives is preferred) to the mix. Not only will it aid in the mix sticking to the insect, but will also do its own damage.

How to Use:
Be sure to test the sensitivity of your plant before launching a full-on assault. Some plants will burn when direct sprayed with citrus oil, especially in hot sun. Move your plant away from direct sun if possible and spray the underside of one leaf. Wait an hour or up to one day and then go ahead if foliar burning does not result.

For the spray to have maximum effect you must spray the insects directly as indirect contact may not be enough to kill the insect pests.

Why It Works:
Oils found in the peel of all citrus fruit act as a nerve poison that sends soft-bodied insects into a crazy fit upon contact. Of course anyone who has experienced citrus juice in the eye is also aware of this simple fact; it BURNS.

Bad Breath Pepper Garlic Spray

Use:
All Purpose. Try it on a host of insect pests.

You’ll Need:

  • 4 cups of boiled water
  • 1 entire bulb of garlic
  • 1 smallish onion
  • 1 tbsp hot pepper (flakes, powder or fresh)
  • Thin strainer
  • Funnel
  • Spray bottle

Directions:

  1. Steep the all your ingredients overnight in the boiling water.
  2. Pour the whole mess into a blender or food processor and liquefy.
  3. Strain through cheesecloth or a thin-meshed strainer. Be sure to capture all the particles to avoid clogging your sprayer.
  4. Funnel the liquid into a spray bottle.

Non-Edible Variation:
Try adding 1 tsp dish soap or insecticidal soap (something without fragrances and additives is preferred) to the mix. Not only will it aid in the mix sticking to the insect, but will also do its own damage.

How to Use:
Thoroughly coat the leaves of the infected plant with the spray. Be sure to get the undersides and other nooks and crannys where bugs will hide. Store your mixture in the fridge to avoid the rotting smell that will eventually arise.

Why It Works:
Garlic contains a chemical that bugs don’t like. As an added bonus it also has fungicidal properties that may aid or prevent some diseases. The active ingredient in hot pepper is capsicum. This is the stuff that burns your eyes. Some rodents will also be repelled by hot peppers.

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A Little Something About Big Pumpkins

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

A round this time each year huge pumpkins, some as big as a thousand pounds, are loaded–using either a forklift or a bunch of strong people and a tarp–into vans and trucks and taken to contests. Growers have spent months tending to these pumpkins that by now have become lumpy, flattened-by-their-own-unnatural-mass giants. This years’ heavyweight pumpkin of 1140 pounds was grown by Dave Stelts, and weighed in at Canfield, Ohio. Nine pumpkins grown this year joined “club 1000” (the informal name for growers who have “broken the barrier”), a record in itself. In the eighties, the heaviest pumpkin weighed in at just over 400 pounds-now a pumpkin over 1000 pounds is expected each year.

A guy named Howard Dill gets most of the credit for the size of pumpkin being grown today. He’s a Nova Scotia farmer who started growing pumpkins in the fifties and spent 30 years breeding them for size. He held the world record from 1979 to 1982. Today, he sells his own variety of seeds, Dill’s Atlantic Giant, by mail order. Pumpkins grown from his seeds are known to grow into the biggest pumpkins of any.

It’s supposed to be a hobby, but competition for first prize weigh-off contests is serious. The people who really want to win are always trying to concoct ways of giving their pumpkin the advantage-a special fertilizer mix, a certain way of a training the vines, a custom greenhouse… If it’s not money on the line, it’s skill and pride. One contest, held by the World Pumpkin Confederation, offers a $50 000 first prize, far more than any other. But there’s still cache in growing the biggest pumpkin, even if it’s not for the big dough. Other growers respect the skill of winners: they go to them for seeds and advice, and follow their methods of growing (if they are willing to share them) religiously. Howard Dill for example is actually described as the `guru’ of big pumpkins by other growers. Some even protect their prize pumpkins with elaborate security systems.

The people who are best at growing pumpkins muster all their human ingenuity and gardening know-how to give nature a winning push. A prize pumpkin doesn’t have to be pretty, edible, or even non-toxic. It just has to weigh a ton. The plants are monitored, measured, and treated scientifically but are at the same time coddled and even loved. They are fertilized according to a program, and liberally treated with fungicides, insecticides, herbicides, and anything else in the arsenal of old-fashioned, chemical-heavy style gardening—even before the grower notices a problem! These gourds are not bred to be pest resistant, that’s for sure. A site called The Pumpkin Nook pretty much expresses the feeling growers have towards the use of pesticides:

” If you are in search of the behemoth pumpkin, spraying to control insects is unfortunately a must…Fortunately those striving for prize winning pumpkins will not be eating the fruit, so health risks are lower. “

Theoretically, though, one fruit could supply the pumpkin for 900 pies. In “Training and Pruning your Pumpkin Vines” David McCallum tells a story of sacrifice in the quest to keep a giant squash safe from the weather:

” The squash was kept growing in the greenhouse with the aid of a propane furnace until November 4. The greenhouse even made it through a 4″ wet snowfall. By setting the alarm clock and getting up every four hours, my brother and I were able to keep the roof clean all night long. “

No wonder pumpkin growers describe their hobby as a sport-and he’s probably not the first to miss a good nights’ sleep over his pumpkin. One grower describes the nerves that accompany the late season, when the pumpkin is getting huge, as the time to start taking nerve pills. It seems the stress is incredible; the pumpkins grow 15 to 20 pounds a day, a rate of growth that can cause them to split without any warning, the growers’ worst fear.

Less earnest accounts tell of increasing the heft of pumpkins by injecting them with growth hormones (the story I’d heard about feeding pumpkins milk turns out to be a myth), filling the hollow with water the night before the weigh-off, patching up cracks with silicone and disguising signs of rot. But if the rules for pumpkin weigh-offs are to be followed, they mostly use every trick in the gardening book, many of them extravagant.

I always thought that this was an innocent hobby. It’s actually rather cutthroat and involves a lot of fertilizer and water in the name of being number one. If you ask me, it’s more a human accomplishment that happens to involve a plant. Here are some tips of the pumpkin growing superstars, things that may seem a bit odd to the uninitiated. If you ask me, only true pumpkin maniacs would go so far in pursuit of a giant, unedible vegetable.

  • Soil is most important. Most how-to articles recommend digging a pit five foot square and three feet deep (!) and filling it with a mixture of sheep, chicken, horse and cattle manure and leaf litter all mixed together with topsoil.
  • Before germination, seeds are put in water and aerated with a fish tank bubbler “to introduce lots of oxygen into the water and to the seeds”.
  • “Avoid touching the fruit with your bare hands…Wear clean gloves if you must,” writes one grower. Apparently pumpkins can suffer viral problems if actually touched.
  • Growers keep diaries of daily measurements and progress of their plants
  • Dowsers are sometimes hired to find a source of underground water. Growing pumpkins get as much as a thousand gallons of water a day.
  • “Pumpkin cabanas” shade the actual fruit during mid-summer, while elaborate windbreaks protect them from the wind.
  • Special heating units are dug into the soil before transplanting outside, so that the soil can be heated from below and above.
  • One grower suggests treating transplants like newborn babies.
  • Avoid soil compaction in the pumpkin patch: “Wear snowshoes if you must.”

I’ve realized that I don’t have the right personality type for this hobby. I’m not meticulous enough, I don’t own a pick-up truck to cart the thing around, and I think I’d rather have a messy pumpkin patch with lots of small happy little pumpkins for making into pie. Is there a contest for the happiest pumpkin patch?

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Wild Apple Taste-off

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Method

Hitting the road with a cup of coffee in a travel mug, my search for wild roadside apple trees begins. I find what I am looking for, a row of gnarled, unpruned wild apple trees growing side by side on a gravel road. I can see right away that some are red, others yellow, some big, some small. I pick some, open my notebook and make my predictions (or should I say guesses?). Which apple will taste best? Which will be sweetest? Which one will taste awful?

Hypothesis

I doubt I will be able to predict which apple tastes best just by looking at them.

The Predictions

Smaller apples will be the most sour.
Larger, redder apples will be sweeter.

With seven apples collected, I made my on-sight predictions of how tasty I thought they would be.

1. Best tasting, crispiest. Like store bought?
2. Hard and sour, but tasty?
3. Sourest, hardest and worst tasting
4. Watery tasting, soft and mid-sweet. Pie apple?
5. Hard, tangy and flavourful. Like Granny Smith?
6. Hardest, but sweet and strong.
7. Sweet, tasty and crispy. Like Macintosh?

… drum roll …

The Results

Reordered from best to worst tasting:

6. (1) Best tasting apple. Sweet like red delicious. Not bitter.
3. (2) Very much like #2, but sweeter.
1. (3) Sour sweet taste. Slightly mealy. Is like store bought.
2. (4) Sweeter than #1 but a bitter tinge. Crispy.
7. (5) Juiciest but watery, bland and sour.
4. (6) Watery but sweet taste. Bitter aftertaste.
5. (7) Soft. Bitter smell. Bad tasting.

Observations

The apple I thought would be one of the worst tasting (it was so small) turned out to be much the best. The apple I thought would be one of the best, number 5, was awful.

Some apples were sweet, but still not that great because they were also bitter.

Usually the smaller apple of the two samples from each tree was the sweetest.

Conclusions

The larger apple is not the better apple. The smaller apples were as sweet or sweeter than the larger ones, and had more flavour overall.

One of the worst qualities of wild apples is a bitter tinge that otherwise sweet apples sometimes have.

All the apples were more tart and sour than many store-bought apples. However, they all generally had a stronger more intense flavour than store-bought apples ever do. Six out of seven of these apples were delicious. Next time I pick wild apples, I’m going to look for more of the hardy, small apples.

“Wild Apples” by Thoreau

“Apples for grafting appear to have been selected commonly, not so much for their spirited flavor, as for their mildness, their size, and bearing qualities, not so much for their beauty, as for their fairness and soundness. Indeed, I have no faith in the selected lists of pomological gentlemen. Their “Favorites” and “None-suches” and “Seek-no-farthers,” when I have fruited them, commonly turn out very tame and forgetable. They are eaten with comparatively little zest, and have no real tang nor smack to them.” —from “Wild Apples” by Thoreau

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Canadian Gardening – Review

Canadian Gardening – Site of the Month

September 2003.

“Sassy, unconventional and totally passionate about plants, You Grow Girl is refreshingly, um, fresh. The work of Toronto-based Gayla Trail and a host of volunteer contributors from around the world, You Grow Girl re-defines gardening for a new generation of gardeners. Under a cheeky veneer of scorn for conventional gardening wisdom lies a solid base of horticultural information delivered in Sex in the City style. From Jane Eaton Hamilton’s Adequate Gardener column (I admit it, I’m addicted) to the catnip test-off (which brand does your cat prefer?), the website is full of chuckles, surprises and, er, fun. Send a You Grow Girl e-card to a friend, read a plant journal, post a question to a forum or submit a gardening tip, whatever. Get real, get gardening with You Grow Girl.”

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I say potato, you say Solanum tuberosum

Guest post by Erin Fisher

What is Binomial Nomenclature?

Binomial nomenclature is also referred to as the latin or scientific name. Latin was at one time the universal (read: European) language of science. All scientific treatises were written in Latin. If you know your latin roots, looking at scientific names can be fun and can give you a clue for the common name or identifying characteristics of the plant: Toxicodendron diversilobum is poison oak.

The scientific method of naming plants is related to the study of taxonomy. Taxonomy is a systematic way of classifying all living organisms. Based on set theory, taxonomists group plants into divisions, families, genera, and species. The characteristics used to group plants have changed over the years. Flower characteristics, such as the number and placement of petals and male and female sexual organs, stem anatomy and genetic information are now used together to group species taxonomically.

Examples of characteristics that determine which division a plant is in: if the plant has a water and nutrient distribution system (mosses and worts don’t); if the plant has seeds (ferns don’t); if the plants have flowers (conifers don’t). Examples of characteristics that determine which family a plant is in: if genetic information indicates a common ancestor within the family (like people – if we have the same grandmother, we are family); flower petal and male and female sexual organ number and placement. Genera and species are often determined by the size of family characteristics – small petals versus large petals, long stamens versus short ones. Genera often have a wider range of sizes and species are, well, more specifically classified.

What is a Plant Species?

Generally speaking, plants of separate species are unable to interbreed. A species is also a group of plants that can be readily distinguished from other plants based on physical appearance but, because plants are so variable, species can be broken down into subspecies and varieties, because sometimes plants that look different can actually interbreed.

Binomial nomenclature refers to the two part name of each species. The first part of the name is the name of the genus and the second part is a modifier of the genus name that indicates the species. Toxicadendron is a genus name and can be used by itself to indicate a member of the Toxicadendron genus or can be used in combination with diversilobum to indicate the particular species within that genus. Diversilobum is only a modifier and is not informative by itself. There is only one genus called Toxicadendron but the species modifier diversilobum can occur in many genera.

Why Use Binomial Nomenclature?

Binomial nomenclature is useful because you don’t have to know what every species looks like to have a common botanical language. In my first plant taxonomy class, we learned to identify families by a gut feeling (or “gestalt” as my prof called it). Once you can look at a plant and know its family, it is pretty easy to use a key to figure out the genus and species. Thus, knowing families is actually more useful than memorizing every plant’s two part name. Many families have common characteristics such as flower petal arrangement (for example, a solitary flower with six petals not fused is typical of the Liliaceae or lily family) or reproductive organ arrangement (for example, four stamens, two tall and two short, is characteristic of the Brassicaceae or mustard family). For many common plants, you can know the genus by casual observation. For example: the genus Lupinus, or lupine (Fabaceae or pea family) can be apparent from the pea-type flowers arranged in a cone-like inflorescence and its distinctive leaves, but identification at the species level will take more investigation into the details of floral morphology. Some genera are more difficult to key to species than others and maybe it’s not even important which kind of lupine you’ve got. If someone tells you about a plant they have and you’ve never heard of the species, you can get a pretty good idea of what the plant looks like if the genus is familiar to you, even if the particular species isn’t. You do this all the time and may not even know it. Begonia is a plant genus name.

Why Not Use Common Names?

Common names can be easy to remember and, when talking to folks from your own region, useful. But if you just know a plant as ‘butter and eggs’, it can lead to miscommunication because there are lots of flowering plants with yellow and white petals known as ‘butter and eggs’. ‘Butter and eggs’ could be of the genus Ranunculus (family: Ranunculaceae or buttercup) or the genus Dendromecon (family: Papaveraceae or poppy). If you know which genus or even which family the plant belongs to, this knowledge can help you find the plant in a nursery or talk about it with other people. Common names can be more informative than ‘butter and eggs’ and still cause problems. For example, cactus is the common name for any plant with succulent leaves and spines. But plants have evolved this characteristic several times throughout history and there are several plant families with cactus plants within them. In Africa, cacti are commonly found in the Euphorbiaceae family – a family that also contains spurges and Poinsettia whose ovaries are above the flower petals. In South America, cacti are found in the Cactaceae family – a family that only includes succulents and whose ovaries are below the flower petals. While cactus is a useful term in describing appearance and growth habit, it is not useful in describing flower structure.

How Much Do You Need to Know?

The levels of classification that are relevant to most botanists are family, genus, and species. Tribes, or sub-families are also used to group genera in very large families such as Asteraceae (sunflower) and Fabaceae (pea). As you may have noticed, plant family names almost always end in -ceae. Genus names are a little more variable, but generally end in -us. Species names are all over the map. When you look at species names, they can sometimes tell you something about the appearance of the plant (example, variegata) or where it is found (example, gypsophilum, or gypsum-loving). Sometimes it is named after a person. A common species specifier in California is eastwoodii, after Alice Eastwood, a prolific and dedicated California botanist. Again, species monikers by themselves have very little information about plant identity – they are designed to only be used with genus names.

Pronounciation

Binomial nomenclature can be intimidating to pronounce, but just remember your basic Latin: almost all consonants are hard and almost all vowels are long. There’s also room for your own interpretation: more than half of the California botanists I know pronounce -ceae (seee-eee), not (ki, long i). Most of us are not that hung up on a specific pronunciation. If anyone EVER gives you a hard time about your pronunciation, you are allowed to tell them to lighten up. Practice on your favorite plant names and starting getting familiar with the common plant families in your area. Once you get proficient at identifying members of the snapdragon family (for example), you’ll be able to identify plants that seemed really different, because of their different colored flowers or differently shaped leaves, as cousins.

For a database of flowering plant families and their characteristics (technical, text only) visit http://biodiversity.uno.edu/delta/

Erin is a restoration ecologist working in the San Francisco area.

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