Planting Instructions
The first step when planting an amaryllis bulb is to soak the roots in lukewarm water for a few hours. Although this isn't necessary it will help to soften up dry roots and jump-start the growth process. Be careful not to over soak the bulb as you can cause mold to form and the roots to rot.
It is common to grow one amaryllis bulb per container, however you can grow several in a pot if it is large enough to house their large roots. The pot size for one amaryllis should be approximately seven inches deep one or two inches wider then the top of the bulb. This may seem small for such a large bulb, but amaryllis fair well when somewhat pot bound. Since amaryllis roots are susceptible to root rot under soggy conditions, a clay pot is preferred as it will 'breathe' and dry out faster. The weight will also help stabilize the plant once the flowers become large and heavy.
Fill the container half way with an all-purpose potting soil that drains well yet retains moisture. Set the bulb on top of the soil and fill around it pressing firmly. The top third of the bulb should be left showing above the soil line. Do not cover the top of the bulb with soil, as it will rot when watered.
Water the soil around the plant well and move the pot to a sunny spot (but not too direct) with a constant temperature around 70 degrees F. Do not water the plant again until the first signs of growth are apparent. This will take approximately three weeks. The amount of light will effect the size of the plant so be aware that too little light will cause a long, spindly flower stem and too much light will create a short stem.
As soon as growth becomes apparent begin watering the plant thoroughly whenever the surface soil dries out. Keeping the soil moist to promote growth is important at this time. Fertilize the plant every two weeks to aid in this growth spurt. Rotate the plant every once and a while so that the leaves and stem grow straight up instead of bent towards the light source. Once the flower stalk becomes heavy, you can stabilize it with a stake.
When the blooms are partially open, move the pot to a less sunny spot with to prolong flower life. Direct light and high temperatures will cause the flowers to fade and die back quicker. At this point it is advisable to step up the fertilizing routine to once a week as the plant is now working overtime to produce those large blooms. A weak solution of all-purpose flowering plant fertilizer or an organic alternative such as vermicompost [link to article] or kelp meal tea will do. As individual flowers die back cut them from the stalk. When the entire flower stalk has finished, remove the stalk at the base using a sharp pair of pruning shears and set the plant back into a sunny spot.
How to get your amaryllis to bloom again Print this article
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