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After I removed the dead roots I removed dead foliage. This step can be done at the same time as cutting the roots. The 'healing period' applies only to cuts made to ends at the bottom of the plant - areas that will be pressed into the soil to later form roots.  Stems and other foliage can be cut off a plant at any time. With a pair of sharp pruning shears, I began to remove the unhealthy, brown and dead stems at the base of the plant. This plant had so much dead foliage, that when all was said and done there was only one good stem left: the one healthy and shiny new stem that made me bring the plant home in the first place. I did leave three additional stems intact, because I didn't feel the plant had much of a chance with only one stem left to support the whole plant. The survivors were very pale and dull, but didn't have scarred brown patches like the stems I cut off. I thought that perhaps with exposure to proper light they had a chance to regain some vibrancy and colour.
 Another problem that could account for the dull, lifeless appearance of the stems was the amount of dirt and dust covering the plant. A layer of filth on a plant can prohibit it from obtaining enough light and carbon dioxide needed to carry out photosynthesis. The process of photosynthesis is a plant's main mode of food production. Inhibit photosynthesis and a plant will deteriorate. A quick fix to this problem is simply to wash the leaves. I used a few drops of liquid dish soap diluted in a bowl of room temperature water. Using a clean cloth, I carefully wiped the flattened stems of the plants clean and then used fresh water to rinse them off.
After performing foliar surgery and cleanup it was time to create a new home for the plant. I selected a pot that was big enough to accommodate its' oddly shifted weight. Cacti should be potted in containers that are in proportion to their size. Usually ½ to 1 inch of space between the plant and the pot edge is sufficient for small plants, while larger plants require a good inch or so. Terra cotta is best, not only because the weight provides stability for the plant, but because it allows the soil to breath, preventing root rot which so frequently occurs as the result of over-watering and lack of air circulation.  In the past I have had a tough time finding ready-made commercial cactus and succulent soil mixes that were suitable for potting. They are either too rocky or too sandy. I usually mix 2 1/2 parts of a mostly sand soil with 1 1/2 part good all-purpose potting soil. The general rule for mixing your own cactus soil is 1 part organic matter such as peat, loam, compost or some kind of soil-less potting mix, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part inorganic matter such as grit, perlite (the white, foamy bits), or crushed lava rock. Additional nutritional supplements such as limestone or potassium can also be added. Keep in mind that although an epipyllum is a member of the cactus family, it is a jungle cactus that likes high humidity and moist, but not wet or soggy soil. As a result I have added extra humus to this soil mix.
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