Start Healthy Tomatoes

Guest post by Arzeena Hamir

Tomatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow from seed. However, unless you live in the tropics, your summers are probably too short to direct seed these heat loving plants. Starting tomato seeds indoors gives them a jump on the season, especially with late maturing varieties. Start seed 6-8 weeks before your last frost. Check almanac.com if you’d like to check your frost dates.

Did You Know?

  • Tomatoes are native to South America.
  • They were first cultivated by indigeneous peoples in prehispanic Mexico.
  • The fruit is botanically a berry.

Tomato seeds themselves are easy to handle and can be planted in any type of container you have around the house: yogurt containers, milk cartons, etc. Try not to use too small of a container (egg cartons for example) or else you’ll be watering more frequently.

The key to starting tomato seed is to keep the seed moist. Pre-moisten the potting mix so that it’s wet but not soggy. When you squeeze it in your hand, no water should come out. The soil should form a ball that falls apart when you poke it. Fill your container and place one or two seeds on top, covering them lightly with more soil. Next, cover the container with either a plastic dome or plastic wrap. Not only does covering prevent the soil from drying out, it prevents you from overwatering the soil as the seed is germinating.

In addition to moisture, warm temperature is the key ingredient to helping tomato seeds germinate. At 75-80° F, seedlings will emerge in just three to five days. Bottom heat is best so place your containers in a warm spot like on top of the water heater or even on top of the VCR. Alternatively, you can use heating cables or a heating mat under the containers.

Once the seedlings are up, move them off the heat and provide them with lots of light. If you have a bright, south-facing window, keep them there. However, if you notice that your seedlings are getting lanky, it’s an indication that you need to provide supplemental light. Grow lights or fluorescent shop lights can be used to keep plants short & stocky. Suspend them close to the plants, no more than four inches from the top of the leaves.

Once the seedlings have developed at least one set of true leaves, pot them up into their own individual containers. Each time you do this, add some fertilizer to the soil mix. I find worm castings to be a great source of organic nutrients that won’t burn the seedlings. Other options include compost or half-strength fish fertilizer.

Each time you pot up your seedlings, take off the bottom two sets of leaves and bury the entire stem. Why? Tomatoes have this wonderful ability to sprout roots along their stems. They are, after all, related to potatoes. Burying the stem & stimulating more root production ensures that the seedling has a well established root system that will withstand the fluctuating moisture conditions in the garden.

Arzeena Hamir is an agronomist and garden writer based in Vancouver, BC. She has worked in the organic gardening industry for 8 years as a consultant and trainer. When she’s not planting peas or harvesting zucchini, she runs Terra Viva Organics.

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Winter Flowers

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

It costs nothing to bring the branches of flowering trees indoors for forcing. A mild day late in the winter or early in the spring is a good time to prune apple and other flowering trees anyway and collecting a few branches won’t damage the tree or shrub. So you might as well enjoy the branches before hauling them to the compost.

The pussy willow (salix discolor) is the poster child of blooming branches. Its catkins or ‘fuzzies’ are actually flowers hanging from the branches. But there are a whole bunch of other trees whose branches can be forced to bloom indoors–many much more brightly than the popular willow. It’s as easy as cutting the right branches, bringing them home, and sitting them in water. Forced branches will bloom two to four weeks after cutting.

Follow These Easy Instructions for Forcing

  1. Collect branches on a mild day.
  2. Look for branches with lots of buds.
  3. Cut stems of medium thickness.
  4. Make a diagonal cut at base of stem.
  5. Remove any branches or buds from the bottom part of the stem.
  6. Recut the stems and change the water every few days.

Try Forcing Branches from These Plants

  • apple
  • almond
  • spice bush
  • wisteria
  • forsythia
  • cherry
  • plum
  • hawthorn
  • flowering quince
  • witch hazel
  • mock orange
  • pussy willow
  • cherry
  • lilac
  • horse chestnuts
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Summer Seeds

It may be summer, but it’s not too late to sow some seeds. Here’s a list of perennials that can be started from seed in July and August.

July Perennials

  • Astilbe
  • Bellis Perennis
  • Campanula
  • Gailardia
  • Foxglove
  • Gypsophila
  • Holllyhock
  • Linum
  • Lunaria
  • Lupin
  • Myosotis
  • Pansy
  • Poppy
  • Pyrethrum
  • Primula
  • Sweet William

August Perennials

  • Arabis
  • Armeria
  • Astilbe
  • Bellis Perennis
  • Campanula
  • Candytuft
  • Dephinius
  • Gaillardia
  • Lychnis
  • Myosotis
  • Plytycodon
  • Primula
  • Viola
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Save Your Plant – Poinsettia

It used to be lush, vibrant red and in full bloom. It arrived wrapped in a lovely foil wrapper. But now the few leaves left are about to succumb to gravity, and more leaves are falling off. What can you do to restore it to it’s original goodness?

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

  • Member of the spurge family
  • Originally from Mexico
  • Red ‘petals’ are actually modified leaves called bracts
  • The flowers are the tiny, yellow centre

If your poinsettia looks like this one [see photo], don’t give up on it yet. You may be able to restore it to its original form. Chances are that at this stage neglect has reduced your poinsettia to stems with few leaves and the plant has entered a dormancy stage. The first thing you should do is place it in a sunny window that is not subject to cold drafts. A south-facing window is good, but avoid harsh, direct light. Water regularly. Keep the soil moist, not soggy. As the leaves fall off, remove them from the pot and discard. Cut back any stems that are rotting to below the dead area. Maintain a steady temperature of 60-70º F.

In late March or early April prune stems back to leave 6-8 inch stumps. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when pruning: sap from the stems of this plant can be irritating to your skin. Continue watering the plant and begin fertilizing it according to your regular fertilizing program (I use worm castings and sea kelp to fertilize my own plants). The plant should begin a rigorous growth spurt.

By early June, your plant should be ready for a bigger pot. Keep up regular watering and fertilization. If it is warm enough outside, you can put it outside where it will get lots of light. Pinch back the new growth periodically for a bushier plant. You should bring your poinsettia indoors at the onset of Fall and before the nights begin to get longer and cooler.

How to Make Your Poinsettia Red Again

The Poinsettia is a photoperiod plant. This means that they naturally begin to bud and produce flowers according to the number of hours they spend in darkness. If you want to re-bloom your poinsettia indoors you will need to observe the following steps, beginning at the end of September.

Every night place a black bag or cardboard box over the plant and put the plant inside a dark closet. The poinsettia must be in complete darkness for 14 hours each night. In the daytime place the plant in a sunny window. Once the plant begins to bud (8-10 weeks), you can place it into a sunny window permanently and your poinsettia will be red with yellow flowers in time for the holidays.

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