Your Questions Answered: Tomato Thieves

Question: We always love your articles and website. Keep it up!!

In this past weekend article on tomatoes, you didn’t answer the burning question: what did your brother do about the squirrels??????? They have already chomped the small tomatoes that were forming on our one plant and I know they are just waiting for more. The plant is doing very well, is covered in blossoms, but the furry thieves are lurking and watching. I have thought of making a chicken wire cocoon to go over the plant, but I wondered if you had any other suggestions. Lots of wildlife in the centre of the city!

- Virginia

Answer: Hi Virginia,

The quick answer is nothing. He did nothing, and consequently only managed to get a taste of a single homegrown tomato. On the flip side, he did say it was the best tomato he’d ever tasted in his life and it has made him eager to try again this year, but with some kind of security measure in place.

When it comes to dealing with mammalian critters I find that there are no hard and fast solutions. Cities are not the lifeless concrete jungles we’ve made them out to be, which is a very good thing. I appreciate the surprise and awe that comes from discovering a bit of wildlife up on my third floor roof in the sky, even if it means we have to share space and an inevitable loss of food. However, I will admit that it is easier to take this generous attitude in June when my tomatoes haven’t yet begun to produce. I’ll be shaking my fists and raging come July when half-eaten tomatoes start appearing on the vine. Why must they taunt me by only eating half? If you’re going to take my hard-won food, eat it all!

Mammalian critters have complex brains and personalities. Like us, there is a lot of variation in temperament and taste between them, even those of the same species. What works for the raccoons around here, might not work for raccoons across town, let alone across the country, or the continent. In fact, what works this year might not work next year when the local posse have had time to figure out their own solutions to your trickery.

Feeling optimistic yet?

Of course, you could always luck out. The squirrels are particularly ravenous in my brother’s part of the city, whereas I can get away with less protection and still come out at the end with a decent crop and only a few tomatoes lost. I pout and whine, but in comparison to some I don’t lose much. If your garden is in an area like my brother’s, I suggest doing exactly what you mentioned above — wrap the whole thing in a chicken wire cocoon and call it a day. It’s not the prettiest solution, but it does seem to keep the critters off the goods. My brother only has one plant so there’s no point in messing around. Chickenwire may be ugly but it does lend itself to interesting shapes. I like to use lots of extra and sculpt those bits so it’s not just a big blanket of wire around the plant and pot but something almost interesting that looks intentional.

If your critters aren’t great climbers, you can try wrapping just the bottom of the pot so they can’t get in. I’ve never seen a squirrel climb an actual plant, but that’s not to say it can’t happen. They do tend to prefer a perch, whether that’s inside the pot, a chair next to it, or a railing where they can easily sit and get at the fruit near the top.

If you’ve got multiple plants, then you’ve got an opportunity to do some testing to see what works and what doesn’t. There are lots of other solutions that others have employed. Most of these don’t worked for me, but that doesn’t mean they won’t work for you.

  • Pepper flakes and pepper sprays: There’s a lot of contention about this one. Some say the critters touch the pepper and eventually get it in their eyes — not a nice feeling to experience. Some say that’s a load of garbage and the animals aren’t that dumb. I have no answer one way or the other so I don’t use this method. Do know that to be effective, you’ll have to be diligent about reapplying regularly.
  • Obnoxious music: Set a small radio next to your plants and set it to an AM station that plays something grating, like ABBA. Let it be known that I enjoy a little ABBA now and again, but even I will agree that it grates after a while.
  • Things that smell like your pet: Used pet bedding and hair are popular deterrents. Simply spread bits around the soil, hang around plants, or clip it to stakes. This has never worked for me and our immune city critters — they’ve attempted to raid the garden when all of us, including the cat, were sitting right there!
  • Vinegar soaked rags: This is another homemade trick, but you’ve got to contain the rag from dripping vinegar (a natural herbicide) onto your plants and soil. A small margarine container should do the trick.
  • Pinwheels and whirligigs: Set them in the pot with your plants. I find that the constant motion scares away the birds but doesn’t seem to phase our city squirrels and raccoons — they’ll think you’re cute for trying!
  • Sprinkle bloodmeal around the plants: This can work, although I can’t say I love the smell. Coffee is also used but tends to do more to deter digging animals than those looking to score a free meal.


What do you do to keep the squirrels, raccoons, possums, and other mammalian creatures from dining on your tomatoes?

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p.s This week’s Globe & Mail article is on basil.

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Handy Garden Tip: Pots with Big Holes

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Here’s a little trick I employ when the holes in the bottom of a container are too big to hold the soil in at planting time.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

I just rip a single sheet of newspaper to the approximate size of the bottom of the pot and place it in the bottom before adding soil. In the case of single hole pots, I rip a piece that is only a few inches larger than the hole; no need to cover the entire pot bottom.

Years back, I used to search high and low for shards of broken pot to cover over the hole, but newspaper is abundant and will eventually decompose. Drainage is not obstructed if you used a single sheet and you’ll never have to think about it again.

Easy.

More handy garden tips from the archive.

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Somewhat Creepy Baby Doll Buggy with Mint

Photo by Davin Risk All Rights Reserved

One of our weekend projects was turning this vintage doll buggy into a mint planter. The plants inside are, from left: ‘Orange’ mint and ‘Ginger’ mint.

I bought the buggy last fall. It cost 5 bucks at a street sale. At the time, I didn’t know what I was going to do with it, I just knew I had to have it. Davin thought it was a bit of a wreck and did not appreciate taking turns pushing it home so I could finish drinking my coffee.

Since then it has sat outside on the roof. I originally stuck a pot of marjoram in it because I was concerned about damaging the integrity of such a gem by putting holes in the bottom. It held straw mulch a few days ago. A neighbour suggested I transform myself into the somewhat scary local eccentric by pushing the miniature pram around the block filled with straw. Baby needs to get some air!

Over the weekend I finally broke down and made some holes in the bottom using a hammer and a giant nail so we could turn it into a planter. Or rather Davin made some holes, although I want to make it public record that I did not force or even ask him to do it! There was some nasty water sitting in the bottom of the carriage. And let me tell you there is nothing nicer than a refreshing splash of rancid water on the face on a sunny Saturday morning.

The two mint plants that are now planted in the carriage/pot were originally intended for the community garden plot, but I already have a ‘Ginger’ mint over there anyways and the colourful foliage just looked like it was meant to live in that rusty old carriage. It’s not uncommon for me to grow or buy plants with an intended purpose in mind, only to switch gears at the last second. Some of my best ideas have evolved this way. I like this one a lot and was mentally patting myself on the back all weekend for coming up with it.

I can’t wait for the plants to grow and start trailing all over the sides of the buggy like gnarly tentacles!

Total cost of this container planting: under 10 bucks. Pretty good when you consider how much mint we’ll get out of it at the end of the season.

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Growing an Edible Strawberry Pot

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Strawberry pots have a bad reputation in the gardening world. They have poor water distribution and tend to dry out quickly. Sometimes they’re ugly. Or the pockets are too small. Or the pockets don’t have a lip, making holding soil in at planting time nearly impossible. The good ones are expensive to buy, if you can find one. I once spent an inordinate amount of money taxiing around the city in search of the right pot for a workshop. Three inferior pots and more money than I care to think about later and I was eventually forced to call a friend and beg to borrow hers. Is it borrowing if you never give it back? And four years have passed?

Despite their faults, I’ll be the first to stand up for strawberry pots. When they’re good, they’re really good. A good strawberry pot is an excellent way to grow food in vertical space. It’s especially useful when all you’ve got in the way of good light is a tiny patch on the balcony. Growing vertically allows you to get as much as you can out of that tiny patch. And they look pretty darn nice too. I like to fill mine with drapey plants that cascade over the sides. The trick to using them is in choosing the right kind of pot, and the right plants for that pot.

So what features qualify a strawberry pot as good?

  1. Large Pockets: Big pockets make planting the pots up a whole lot easier. Anything under 3″ is impossible to work with. How do they expect us to shove roots through a tiny hole? And why do I feel so dirty typing that? The lip also supports the roots while the plant gets itself established and provides more root space between plants. Lipped pots are also easier to water since the water has time to soak in rather than running straight out of the holes. When watering these pots I often direct the flow to the top of the pot and then to each pocket individually. That way I know that the plants aren’t sitting there in dry soil while only the top and middle of the pot gets wet.
  2. Pockets with Lips: Lipped pockets have a slightly raised side that keeps soil in while the roots grow. Eventually the roots will develop and hold everything in. My trick for pots with lips is to shove a bit of coir liner in there to stabilize the soil. I’ve also covered the hole with landscape fabric or newspaper before adding soil. Then I just cut an X and poke the roots through. It’s a bit of a juggle but it works.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved
The pockets on this pot do not have lips but it makes up for it in larger pockets and a larger pot size.

  1. Ceramic Pots: Ceramic pots are the best of the bunch. They’re also the most expensive, but worth it. They hold water better than terra cotta and look a whole lot classier than plastic.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

My favourite strawberry pot (the infamous “borrowed pot”). Note the ceramic glaze, and large pockets with big lips that are staggered around the circumference of the pot. This version, planted up several years ago is holding the classic herbal mix with the largest plant, rosemary, in the top. Now, if only the pot were not white. I hate white!

  1. Staggered Pockets: Most pots have pockets that are staggered around the pot at different levels so that plants are equally distributed around the pot and not sharing space. But I have one pot that is shallow with pockets that are all at the same level. When I pot it up, which is basically never, the plants grow crowded and compete for space. Bad design.
  2. Big Pots: Bigger strawberry pots stay wet longer and provide more root space for plants. This is especially important if you’re trying to grow something edible. Don’t bother messing with those little pots they’ve got in the impulse buy section of the garden centre unless you plan to use them for drought tolerant succulents or some small thyme plants. That said, I have been hunting for a simple, small pot for years with no luck. But I plan to grow thyme in it.

What plants work best in strawberry pots?

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Well, strawberries for one. I grow a strawberry-filled strawberry pot every year. The roots are small and fit easily into just about any sized pot. If you’re interested in trying something new, look for varieties with colourful flowers (pink is common) or variegated leaves.

Herbs are another good option. Stick to drought tolerant herbs such as thyme, oregano, or marjoram if you’re growing in a smaller pot. Big pots can support a wide assortment of herbs. I grow a different mix every year, starting with cool season plants early in the spring and then switching them out for tougher, heat-loving plants that can take a bit of neglect once the summer kicks in. One of my favourite pots stick to one type of herb with a different variety in each pocket. I grew a mint mix last year that was stunning once the plants started to trail and produce flowers. It was nice to have so many different varieties of mint on hand to pinch off for tea.

Lettuce and other assorted greens will grow well if you start your pot early in the spring while the temperatures are cool. Create visual interest by growing varieties with different shapes, colours, and textures in each pocket. The pot show at the top of this page is filled with strawberries with a dark, frilly ‘Red Oak Leaf’ lettuce in the top.

I’ve included a printable list that will help you get started in choosing the right plant for your conditions as well as herbal mixes that will grow well together.

The Famous Watering Trick, Modified

As mentioned above, strawberry pots are known for having water distribution problems. One trick many gardeners have turned to is to insert a piece of PVC pipe with tiny holes drilled throughout, down into the centre of the pot at planting time. When you pour water into the pipe, the water flows down and trickles through the holes, allowing water to reach all nooks and crannies in the pot.

It’s a good idea, but it does not come without problems:

  1. PVC pipes cost money.
  2. PVC isn’t a particularly safe plastic to have around food.

To avoid these problems, I’ve been utilizing my own modified version that has served me well for several years:

  1. Scour recycling bins for plastic water bottles that are long, tall, and thin. Look for a bottle that is nearly as tall as your pot.
  2. Using the tiniest drill bit you can find, make lots of holes all around the bottle.
  3. At planting time, bury the bottle in the centre of the pot, with the top just sticking up above the soil line. Try to hide it behind some foliage.
  4. When watering, direct the flow into the bottle and fill. Now, cap it off. Capping the bottle seems to restrict the flow, giving the entire pot the chance to soak up the water, instead of sending it straight down to the bottom of the pot.
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American Black Currant (Ribes odoratum) ‘Crandall’ Flower

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Can you believe these flowers belong to a black currant bush?

It recently occurred to me that I have a red currant bush and a gooseberry bush, but do not have a black currant bush. This despite the fact that I like the idea of gooseberries and red currants more than I like to eat them. Black currant on the other hand is divine.

Anyways, I actually do sort of have a black currant bush growing in my community garden plot right now. I say sort-of only because I’m not entirely sure it’s a black currant. A seedling that looks like a black currant came up as a volunteer a few years back so I stuck it in a corner and let it grow, waiting to find out what it is and hoping that it is indeed a black currant. I have absolutely no idea where the plant came from. Two years in and it is now taller than my gooseberry bush and continues to look like a black currant with the possible exception of the leaves that seem a bit too big, but it’s hard to say because some varieties do have slightly bigger leaves. Also, while at the garden centre, I noticed jostaberry, which is not unlike a black currant bush but with larger leaves. So perhaps it is a jostaberry. But who can know? Until it flowers and produces fruit, I remain in the dark. That could take another few years yet, but I like a good mystery and am willing to wait it out despite a lack of space.

Meanwhile, I have been longing for a real and true black currant and had decided I was just going to suck it up and get one. And then I almost didn’t, again. Because the bushes at the store were $14.99 each and not particularly big. And because I am cheap and figured I should just wait until the fall when they are on sale, which is how I got the gooseberry bush. However, while browsing the selection I found this one, called ‘Crandall’, with beautifully ornamental yellow and orange flowers. That sealed the deal.

You’ll note that ‘Crandall’ is not a regular black currant (Ribes nigrum), but is another species, Ribes odoratum. Apparently the berries have a spicy or clove flavor, and I can tell you that the flowers certainly do. Unfortunately, I did not choose well for my small community garden plot and managed to find the largest bush going (4ft at maturity). Some people say you need two bushes to produce fruit but other more reliable sources say you don’t. I guess I’ll find out soon enough.

And there you have it. I am now the proud, albeit tentative owner of a black currant bush. Jam to come in another 12 to 24 months.

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