Keeping Kitty Off the Goods

My 12 year old cat Voltron is a determined plant nibbler – in fact most cats have a natural curiosity about their surroundings and tend to enjoy a little taste of fresh greenery now and again.

Unfortunately many common houseplants are toxic so it is worth familiarizing yourself with both your plants and your cat’s tenacity. Many houseplants can cause some form of digestive upset or nausea, and some such as dieffenbachia (aka dumb cane) and philodendron can even be fatal. I’ve included a short list of dangerous common houseplants to avoid [see below and sidebar for further resources]. A little bit of plant material, even the inert stuff can make kitty throw up a little. However, symptoms such as excess vomiting, diarrhea, and a lack of appetite can suggest poisoning and should be taken seriously.

Before rushing to throw much-loved houseplants into the compost heap, try out a few tricks that have worked to create harmony among the species in my own household. Keep in mind that every cat is different and some are just a whole lot more persistent than others! Consider:

Cat Repellents

Make a cat-curbing spray using a “tea” of seeped cayenne pepper flakes and spray on your plants’ leaves or soil surface. NEVER spray your cat directly with this kind of tea. Cats hate strong smells especially citrus. Place citrus peels on the soil surface.

Plant Placement

Some cats are agile climbers and won’t be deterred by high bookshelves or furniture obstacles. Use hanging baskets to keep enticing grass-like plants such as spider plants out of reach. In addition placing plants grown just for kitty in accessible spots will train him to distinguish between his plants and your plants.

Plants for Kitty

Rather than going to war, grow a plant or two that kitty can safely chomp. “Cat grasses” such as wheat, rye, and oats are easy to grow in a shallow container. Alternatively try grasses with a bit of flash such as blue fescue or lemongrass. If neither you nor kitty jive with grasses try herbs such as valerian, catnip, lesser calamint, or Persian catnip. Don’t forget that chemical pesticides and fertilizers can be toxic too – grow organic!

Toxic Houseplants

  • Dracaena
  • Corn Plant
  • Easter & Tiger Lily
  • Dieffenbachia (aka Dumb Cane)
  • Ivy
  • Philodendron
  • Forced Bulbs – Daffodil, tulip, amaryllis
  • Caladium
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Late Winter Events

There has been a lot of plant-related excitment brewing around here lately.

The first copies of my book arrived from the publisher last week!! A site for the book can be found over here, including a news page where I will update on events or goings on related to the book. The first entry includes some photos of the book’s arrival. If you’re in the Toronto area mark your calendar for the evening of March 23rd. I’ll be having a launch party at The Gladstone (Queen & Dufferin). Details will be posted on the book site soon.

I’ve started a “Grow-A-Long” section in the forums. It’s sort of like a support group for seed starting. Everyone starts their seeds at the same time and documents the process as well as learning from each other. I started soaking my banana seeds on Friday night for the banana tree grow-a-long. You can watch the progress here although I warn you it can take months for banana seeds to germinate. It could get a little boring.

I’ve been doing lots of general maintenance on my indoor plants over the last few weeks. I gave all the bromeliads and tropical plants a good shower a few weekends ago. We have a dechlorinating filter on our shower head which has proven to be both good for my skin and the health of my plants. After the shower I did a bit of plant shifting. I find that during the winter months I am constantly shifting plants from one spot to another based on the needs that must be met at any given time and the chainging nature of light, drafts etc throughout the season. I’ve got to do another big shift soon to make room for the seeds I’ll be growing this year. I honestly haven’t put much thought into it yet but I’ve got a pile of catalogues begging for my attention.

I’ve been fighting a stubborn case of scale insect that has infested my variegated agave since the late summer. I think I’ve finally got it beat! I check the plant every single day and haven’t found a single scale insect of any size in weeks. Fingers crossed. Thankfully it did not spread to any other plants. The agave is putting out new leaves and seems to really be bouncing back.

The African violets I started from leaf cuttings back in August have been slowly turning into miniature plants. Ness’ Orange Pekoe is the largest and happiest of the lot. I recently repotted Sonoma Imapink and it’s turning out to be a bit of a mistake. The little plant has taken a turn for the worse. My eagerness got the best of me as it sometimes does. Live and learn.

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Epiphytic Cactus (Hatiora)

Wow. It’s been so long since I last posted. I have been sitting on this for a while wondering where to start so I think I’ll just start with yesterday.

I bought a new plant! Whenever I pass by “Poppies“, my favourite local floral shop I can’t resist peering in the window to see what’s new. Recently I saw a lovely epiphytic cactus hanging near the front window. Yesterday afternoon as I was walking by temptation got the best of me and I went inside. I was all set to buy the plant, a Rhipsalis, when I caught out of the corner of my eye, hidden amongst the foliage of a cluster of plants another pencil cactus in full bloom. The Rhipsalis was large and crazy with long prehistoric-like tendrils hanging down, but the new plant, a Hatiora salicorniodes (related to the Easter Cactus), was also pretty large and bursting with small orangey-yellow flowers. After a lot of deliberation, flowers won over prehistoric tendrils and I went for the Hatiora.

I took a bunch of photos this morning when the light was good.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

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African Violet Fever

We popped into the C.N.E last night for a bit of picture-taking and happened upon the Toronto Gesneriad Society table displaying the largest selection of the craziest African violets I have ever seen! Some of the names were just a little bit naughty, and some of the plants over-the-top Vegas Show Girl shimmery, giving me the impression that the African violet world isn’t totally about doillies and perfect leaf formation.

I had a bag of cameras on hand that prevented me from purchasing any plants, however they were selling standard leaf cuttings for 2 bucks a piece. It took me a good 20 minutes to make a choice but in the end I chose 4 very ornamental variegated leaf varieties. I chose:

- Deadly Sting
- Ness’ Orange Pekoe
- Northern Seduction – Has dark burgundy flowers. Leaves variegated mostly along the edges.
- Sonoma Imapink

Growing African Violets from Leaves

It is very easy to grow an entire African violet plant (or two, or three) from a single leaf. All you need to do is cut the stem end on an angle using a really sharp blade. Then you just pop the stem into some moistened vermiculite and wait. Of course, don’t forget to keep it moist. Soon enough the leaf will set root and start to produce little plantlets around it. Transplant the babies and you’re off. You can have your own full-grown ‘Dirty Face’, ‘Lady Diana’ or ‘Nancy Reagan’ plant in six short months!

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Share Your Plants

Your parents probably tried to instill the virtues of sharing when you were in your formative years. The reasoning is that it’s a nice way to treat your peers and it teaches you to be unselfish and thoughtful. When it comes to gardening, sharing plants through propagation isn’t just a friendly gesture but is actually beneficial to your plants and an economical way to expand your collection. Propagation forces you to take a few minutes and give some individual care to a plant that may have been neglected otherwise. It also involves cutting back a plant that may have become unruly, or digging up a plant that may be too big for its current space. Economically, it provides you with a number of plants you didn’t have a few minutes before, which you can then use to expand your garden or trade with friends for new plants. There are many different ways to propagate new plants from your own plants. The following are a few simple methods to get you started.

Offsets

Some plants will literally do the work for you by producing little plantlets or offsets from the base or the stem of the “mother” plant. For instance succulents and cacti will often produce miniature versions of the parent plant around the base, which can be removed and planted in a new container of soil, or moved to a new place in the garden. Spider plants (Clorophytum) and strawberry plants will send off shoots containing small plantlets that can be pinned down to some moist soil, where they will grow their own roots. You can fashion a pin by bending a paper clip into a “u” shape. [see instructions on side]. Once the plantlet has produced its own roots, the shoot attaching the plantlet to the mother plant (an umbilical cord of sorts) can be cut, leaving you with a new plant that can be given away.

Division

Division involves pulling up large, overgrown plants and breaking them apart at the roots to produce several plants. Spring is the best time to divide indoor plants. Since it is the beginning of the growing season plants will just be coming out of a rest period into a huge growth spurt and could use the extra space in their pots. The best way to prepare for division is to water the plant the day before so that the soil is compact and easy to extract from the container. The following day, carefully remove the plant from the pot onto a surface covered with newspaper or sheeting. Smaller plants can be pulled apart by holding the plant in both hands and gently separating the stems and roots that have become entangled in one another. If the plant will not divide through gentle tugging it is better to use a knife or pruning shears to get the job done. Torn stems and roots can introduce diseases into the plant and prevent a quick recovery. Remember that propagation is similar to a delicate surgical operation. Open wounds can invite all sorts of diseases and pathogens into a plant that has just undergone a sensitive procedure.

Mid summer is the right time of year to divide garden plants such as irises after they have finished blooming, or spring flowering bulbs with exhausted foliage. Fall is the best time to divide most other garden plants. Perennial plants have had a full growing season to expand and become too large for their space, and the cool fall air is a relief from the scorching summer sun. The procedure for dividing outdoor plants is similar to indoor plants with the exception that you will need to dig the plant out of the soil instead of simply tilting a pot. Be sure to dig around the plant, taking care to avoid cutting off roots and hurting the plant. If a plant is really large, use a shovel to cut through and divide the roots instead of a pair of shears. Once you are through dividing the plant, put one piece back into the original hole and plant the rest elsewhere or put into pots to give to friends. Fertilize and liberally water the new plants to ensure that the plant settles in with strong root growth before the cold weather sets in.

Cuttings

Making new plants by rooting small pieces of larger plants is a lot easier then it seems. As a technique, it works on quite a lot of plants such as geraniums, fuchsia, hydrangea, and wisteria to name a few. There are a variety of ways to go about this task. It can be as simple as placing some stems of basil or mint from the grocery store into a container of water. Remove the lower leaves and snip the ends off with a sharp pair of pruning shears for a clean cut before you put the stems in water. After a time the stems will root and you can easily plant them in some soil indoors or out. This method can also be used to root stems taken from catnip or other plants growing wild in fields or abandoned lots.

Softwood Cuttings

Although most gardeners have rooted cuttings from the more popular plants such as geraniums, pinks or coleus, few experiment with bushes, vines, or larger perennials. Early to mid summer is a great time to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Choose shoots that are semi-mature with a hard, woody base that is still soft enough to cut through with a pair of shears, and which has a soft tip with new growth. Cut ½ inch or so below a node, on an angle. The cutting from base to tip should be about 4 inches long. Remove the lower leaves to create a stem. Dip the fresh cut end into a dish of rooting hormone. Rooting hormone is a product that promotes root growth, and often contains fungicides that discourage the stem from rotting before it has the opportunity to produce roots. It can be purchased in powder or gel form. If powdered hormone isn’t coating the stem end properly, lightly moisten the end of the cutting. Fill a small container with some potting soil. Make a hole in the soil with a dibber, a pencil, a stick or even your finger. Place the cutting in the hole, being sure to avoid removing the rooting hormone. Gently press the soil down around the cutting and water thoroughly.

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