Here’s something I have a lot of experience with. You can grow anything in a pot, although some plants do better than others. Let me show you what I’ve learned over the years.
Another May, another act of gluttony at the Parkdale Horticultural Society plant sale. Okay perhaps there was slightly less gluttony on my part this year — arriving late always helps since the good stuff goes in a matter of minutes. But I just can’t help myself when I see a big container of something-or-other for 2 bucks. It almost doesn’t matter what it is; I simply can not pass up the deal.
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Guest post by Kelly Gilliam
What do you think of when you imagine basil? The scent of a summer herb garden filling your nostrils? The taste of a nice pesto on a cool evening? Bees rushing around feverishly from tiny flower to tiny flower? Or maybe it’s just the different textures, sizes, shapes and tastes that spring to your mind when you ponder the dozens of available varieties of basil-and there are dozens to say the least. The ever-popular sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) is the most commonly seen in kitchen gardens and windowsills alike. However, it is limiting to restrict yourself to only this kind of basil. Each variety can uniquely enrich not only the flavour of your cooking, but also the look of your garden.
Despite their variations in flavour and appearance, the different types of basil are similarly easy to care for. Being a plant of tropical Asian descent, basil likes well-drained soil and plenty of light, ideally bright direct afternoon sun. One thing that my years of raising basil have taught me is that the plant must not be waterlogged; allowing the soil to dry out between waterings helps greatly. I have also found it easier to grow basil in a container than in the ground. Moisture levels can be more easily monitored in a container, and if the initial location is not immediately beneficial, the plant can easily be moved to another spot. For containers, I always pick something shallow, like a pot made for bulbs or succulents. Basil has shallow roots and placing it in a more shallow pot allows the roots to reach out in a more natural manner and also to stay warm, something which is essential for basil to grow strong and healthy.
Thousands of years ago, basil was the subject of much debate in the realm of herbal medicine. While some embraced the herb as not only a wonderful source of flavour but also of relief for digestive ailments, other ancient herbalists claimed that basil damaged internal organs and caused insanity, coma, and the spontaneous generation of assorted detrimental parasites and arachnids, such as lice and scorpions! However, the Roman naturalist Pliny himself was a proponent of the good that basil exacted upon the human body and was the first to suggest that it alleviates flatulence, something which modern pharmacology supports. Basil has also been shown to relieve nausea and stomach upset when administered as a tea, much like its mint cousins.
Following are eight common varieties of basil that are relatively easy to find and should be in stock in your local nursery in the spring. Of course this is only a small sampling of the dozens of varieties available. My best suggestion would be to get as many varieties as you can and experiment with the different flavours by adding the fresh leaves to your cooking. After all, when you cook with herbs you’ve raised yourself, it always gives you a new appreciation of your food. Remember to go herb shopping early to get the best selection.
Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Sweet basil is easily the variety most frequently seen in herb (or any) gardens. It has a strong, almost tart flavour when fresh, but when dried, its flavour sweetens. This particular variety has a mild initial taste which lasts on the tip of the tongue. The aftertaste is strong and lingers in the back of the throat, almost leaving a sensation in your nose.
African Blue Basil (Ocimum kilimanscharium x Ocimum basilicum purpurescens)
This is a personal favourite of mine. The fresh leaves have a strong initial flavour, which is much sweeter than sweet basil. Not only is the flavour more enjoyable, but it also has gorgeous green foliage streaked with purple veins, and deep purple flower heads. Its texture is also a surprise to most people who are used to sweet basil. While most basils have a very smooth leaf, African blue basil is fuzzy and almost rough, something you can also taste when it is added to a dish. It does not have an overpowering aftertaste, and does not linger in the back of the mouth as sweet basil does. As if these factors were not enough to ensure a permanent spot in my favourite basil list, African blue basil is also very easy to grow, and sends out new shoots incredibly quickly.
Lemon Basil (Ocimum americanum)
This basil is true to its name-one sniff and one would swear one was in a lemon orchard. Initially, it tastes almost the same as most basils, but its slight aftertaste resembles that of lemon balm. It has a very mild flavour, and while it smells beautiful, the ‘lemon’ in the name does trick one into expecting something that tastes a little more lemony. That aside, it is a nice addition to the garden, and a nice addition to a recipe that may call for citrus highlights. I have had more trouble growing this basil than any other. I had two plants, one which received sun for about seven hours a day, and another which received sun for about three hours. Both were leggy despite being pinched back, and were very slow growing despite optimum soil and water.
Thai Basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Thai’)
As the name might suggest, this variety had a very spicy flavour with a slight hint of licorice, but with a nice mild aftertaste. Along with the African blue basil I found this one very fast and easy to grow, and also quite pleasing to the eye. It produced flower heads that were deep burgundy, which contrasted nicely against this variety’s pale green leaves. This is also a favourite of mine, and goes well in any dish with heavy spices. This is the herb for all your authentic Thai curries!
Cinnamon Basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Cinnamon’)
This variety is very true to its name, and had a distinct cinnamon aftertaste. Although initially it very much resembles the tartness of sweet basil, it has a cool flavour that would probably be excellent for a cold dish that called for the addition of basil.
Spicy Globe Basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Minimum’)
This basil is actually milder than the variety name would have you believe. While it is excellent for a container or smaller spaces because of its tiny leaves (measuring 1-1½ cm long) and compact growth habit, its flavour very closely resembles that of sweet basil. It does have a slight sage flavour, and would probably be excellent in complimenting sage in a dish.
Rubin Basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Purpurascens’)
Also known as Dark Opal Basil. It has dark purple/reddish foliage which adds a sharp contrast to any herb garden. It has a strong dry bite with a taste that lingers on the tongue and leaves your mouth feeling parched. While it is a good strong basil, which I’m sure some must love, I found myself valuing it more for its dark purple leaves instead of its rather acerbic taste.
Green Bush Basil (unknown, might be another variety of O. basilicum ‘Minimum’)
This is another variety of basil excellent for growing in containers. It is small, and has much the same growth habit as spicy globe basil. However, instead of dark purple its flower heads are straight green like the rest of the plant. Also unlike spicy globe basil, it has more of an actual spiced flavour. It has a delicious aftertaste, which stays strong but does not overwhelm the senses like some basils have a tendency to do.
Baked Lemon Basil Chicken
Ingredients:
2 pieces of boneless & skinless chicken breast
1 good handful of lemon basil
3 sprigs of African blue basil
½ cup of water
¼ cup of olive oil
1 sprig of rosemary
1 sprig of tri-colour sage
1 tsp lemon juice
dash of pepper
1. Combine all herbs, oil, water, pepper & lemon juice in blender and liquefy.
2. Place defrosted chicken breast in marinade in a sealable container and place in the fridge over night.
3. When you are ready to prepare dinner, take out the chicken breast and place it in a baking pan that is lightly coated with olive oil.
4. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
5. Take the rest of the marinade and paint it onto the breasts. Place chicken in the oven with the cover on for 30-45 minutes or untilgolden brown. For extra flavour, add a thin slice or two of lemon to the top of the chicken while baking.
Serves 2
Herb & Veggie Fried Rice
Ingredients:
1 cup of rice
½ yellow pepper
2 tbsp of onion
1 tbsp of sunflower oil
3 large mushrooms
One sprig of fresh rosemary
One sprig of fresh thai basil
6-7 leaves of fresh sage
1. Pick your favourite kind of rice and prepare.
2. Once the rice is cooked, take out a fry pan and coat with the sunflower oil. Place rice in the pan and start to cook over low-medium heat.
3. Chop onions, pepper, mushrooms, rosemary, sage and basil and add to rice. Cook until rice is slightly browned and flavours have infused. Peppers, onions and mushrooms should be tender.
4. This can be used as a meal or as a side dish.
Makes 3-4 servings.
Bibliography
Claire Kowalchik and William H. Hylton, ed. Rodale’s Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs. Pennsylvania: Rodal Press, 1998.
Inge N. Dobelis ed. Magic and Medicine of Plants. New York: The Reader’s Digest Association, Inc., 1989.
Kelly Gilliam is a full-time greenhouse employee from the Greater Vancouver, B.C. area gardening out of primarily containers due to her urban enclosure. Because of her discount at work she is utterly hopeless about bringing home plants, doing it on a weekly basis. Her favourites are any kinds of cacti and succulents, which she also obsessively cultivates from seed. When she’s not at work or puttering around the local second-hand shops for interesting junk she runs Devileye.net.
Comments OffYikes. It’s been a long while since I’ve updated. Obviously an awful lot has happened in my gardens since my last update. The weather has been the strangest this spring/summer of any year I can recall. It has been wetter, cooler and greyer. As a result, some plants have grown taller and bigger than ever before while others are stunted and sad.
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Guest post by Arzeena Hamir
Tomatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow from seed. However, unless you live in the tropics, your summers are probably too short to direct seed these heat loving plants. Starting tomato seeds indoors gives them a jump on the season, especially with late maturing varieties. Start seed 6-8 weeks before your last frost. Check almanac.com if you’d like to check your frost dates.
Did You Know?
Tomato seeds themselves are easy to handle and can be planted in any type of container you have around the house: yogurt containers, milk cartons, etc. Try not to use too small of a container (egg cartons for example) or else you’ll be watering more frequently.
The key to starting tomato seed is to keep the seed moist. Pre-moisten the potting mix so that it’s wet but not soggy. When you squeeze it in your hand, no water should come out. The soil should form a ball that falls apart when you poke it. Fill your container and place one or two seeds on top, covering them lightly with more soil. Next, cover the container with either a plastic dome or plastic wrap. Not only does covering prevent the soil from drying out, it prevents you from overwatering the soil as the seed is germinating.
In addition to moisture, warm temperature is the key ingredient to helping tomato seeds germinate. At 75-80° F, seedlings will emerge in just three to five days. Bottom heat is best so place your containers in a warm spot like on top of the water heater or even on top of the VCR. Alternatively, you can use heating cables or a heating mat under the containers.
Once the seedlings are up, move them off the heat and provide them with lots of light. If you have a bright, south-facing window, keep them there. However, if you notice that your seedlings are getting lanky, it’s an indication that you need to provide supplemental light. Grow lights or fluorescent shop lights can be used to keep plants short & stocky. Suspend them close to the plants, no more than four inches from the top of the leaves.
Once the seedlings have developed at least one set of true leaves, pot them up into their own individual containers. Each time you do this, add some fertilizer to the soil mix. I find worm castings to be a great source of organic nutrients that won’t burn the seedlings. Other options include compost or half-strength fish fertilizer.
Each time you pot up your seedlings, take off the bottom two sets of leaves and bury the entire stem. Why? Tomatoes have this wonderful ability to sprout roots along their stems. They are, after all, related to potatoes. Burying the stem & stimulating more root production ensures that the seedling has a well established root system that will withstand the fluctuating moisture conditions in the garden.
Arzeena Hamir is an agronomist and garden writer based in Vancouver, BC. She has worked in the organic gardening industry for 8 years as a consultant and trainer. When she’s not planting peas or harvesting zucchini, she runs Terra Viva Organics.
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You don’t need a lot of money to have classy-looking container plants.
I rarely purchase my containers new anymore. Not just because they are expensive, but because most of the time I think they’re ugly. Go to any department store or garden centre and you’re bound to find those awful plastic pots that are meant to look like terracotta (who are they trying to fool) or pots in hideous colours or shapes. It’s not just the styles that I find offensive. They charge an arm and a leg for those mass-produced atrocities. Now, I don’t mind paying good money for stylish containers. However, since I don’t have a proper garden, I rely on containers to get the job done. I’m a greedy person. I have a lot of plants, therefore I need a lot of pots. Over the last several years I’ve used ingenuity and my imagination to come up with stylish yet economical resources for all my planting needs.
The first place to look if you want a cheap, yet traditional terracotta pot is the second hand store. If you go during the winter, the gardening off-season, you can find used terracotta pots at fairly reasonable prices. Look around and stockpile when you do find a bargain. The closer to planting season you get, the harder it is to find them at a reasonable price. Even the second hand stores will try to gouge you. Used terracotta can actually be superior to new because they already have that aged patina everyone is trying so hard to achieve these days, and they often come in styles and shapes that aren’t produced. Believe it or not, all terracotta pots are not created equal. You will need to clean and sterilize your used pots. They often come with dirt and mineral build up still in them. Even if they are spotlessly clean, they will need to be sterilized using some sort of cleaning agent. The reason being, that the used pots could have been housing a diseased plant and you don’t want to pass that disease onto your own plants. The usual method of sterilization is to soak the pots in a tub filled with 1 part bleach to 10 parts very warm water. As an alternative, I use oxygenated bleach (hydrogen peroxide) or an all-purpose, environmentally friendly cleaner instead of bleach and have had no problems as a result. Scrub the pots clean with a brush. Rinse and lay them out to dry in a rack or a towel.
Second hand stores, auctions and garage sales are also good places to find more interesting containers from the last several decades. I’ve purchased many glazed ceramic pots form the 50′s, 60′s and 70′s that are far superior aesthetically to the contemporary offerings, and at greatly reduced prices. I have containers in the shape of cute elephants, deer and lambs even. I have a few that have a bamboo texture on the outside and even come with their own, attached drip tray. Again you will need to clean and sterilize these containers in the same manner as the terracotta pots. In some cases you may need to create a drainage hole in the bottom of the container so that the plant doesn’t drown when you water it. This can be accomplished easily with a drill or Dremel, and a masonry bit. Be sure to wear safety gear when you do this because the dust flies everywhere. Drill a few 1/4″ holes into the bottom of the container so that water can drain out. If you don’t want to modify your objet d’art then you can create drainage for the plant by putting a layer of gravel in the bottom of the container before adding soil and a plant. Another method is to simply slip a plant potted in a plain, plastic container that is slightly smaller, inside the larger, more stylish container. With this method you won’t need a plate to catch the dripping because the outer container will do that job.
You don’t have to limit yourself to containers that were specifically designed to hold plants. Just about anything made of plastic, galvanized metal, stainless steel, clay or ceramic will work as a plant pot. Once again you will need to clean, sterilize and possibly modify the container for drainage following the same methods above. I have used old buckets, tubs, children’s beach pails, ceramic bowls, vases, teacups and teapots in place of traditional containers. 
Baskets or old wooden crates found in the garbage can be lined with plastic (poke a few holes in the bottom for drainage) or spagnum moss, filled with soil and planted up. I even collect small saucers or plates with interesting patterns and designs to use as drip trays instead of purchasing the expensive terracotta ones.
The possibilities really are limitless, proving that you don’t need a lot of money to have a lot of classy looking container plants. You just need to be willing to expand your concept of what a plant pot is and can be.
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