Save Your Plant – Forced Bulbs

In this part of the world (southern Ontario) it isn’t uncommon for people to begin craving springtime as early as February. People reach out to brighter days and warmer weather anyway they can. One of the easiest ways to satisfy this need is to purchase forced bulb plants such as crocuses, tulips, narcissus and hyacinths. Unfortunately since these plants don’t flower long enough to make it through until spring, many of us are left with several pots of dead plants by the time the first crocuses appear.

Bulb Plants That Are Commonly Forced:

  • Crocus
  • Narcissus
  • Tulip
  • Hyacinth
  • Lily
  • Dwarf Iris (Reticulata)

These plants may be withered but they aren’t dead yet. With a little extra work you can save them and give them a second life in your garden, resulting in more value for your buck. However, they will not grow indoors again so do not attempt to force them a second time. Forcing bulbs drains their energy resources and throws them out of whack. The only bulb that can withstand a repeat performance of this process is the amaryllis (Hippeastrum).

When the flowers are dead, cut them off with a sharp pair of pruners and leave the foliage intact. Continue watering the plant as usual and be sure to keep it in a sunny area near a light source. The leaves must be able to continue producing energy through the process of photosynthesis.

When the leaves turn yellow and begin to fade, reduce watering to about half. Once the leaves have withered entirely, discontinue watering and allow the soil to dry out.
After the soil has dried out, remove the bulbs from the pot and cut off the dead foliage near the base of the bulb. Wipe the bulb clean with a dry cloth. Do not allow it to become wet again. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry and dark place such as a paper or mesh bag. There must be ample air circulation and the bulbs must remain dry or they may rot.

In the fall plant the bulbs outside in your garden or give them to someone with a garden if you don’t have one. The plant will put on a poor show the first year with undersized, few, or no blooms but should perform well the following year.

Comments Off

Save Your Plant – Poinsettia

It used to be lush, vibrant red and in full bloom. It arrived wrapped in a lovely foil wrapper. But now the few leaves left are about to succumb to gravity, and more leaves are falling off. What can you do to restore it to it’s original goodness?

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

  • Member of the spurge family
  • Originally from Mexico
  • Red ‘petals’ are actually modified leaves called bracts
  • The flowers are the tiny, yellow centre

If your poinsettia looks like this one [see photo], don’t give up on it yet. You may be able to restore it to its original form. Chances are that at this stage neglect has reduced your poinsettia to stems with few leaves and the plant has entered a dormancy stage. The first thing you should do is place it in a sunny window that is not subject to cold drafts. A south-facing window is good, but avoid harsh, direct light. Water regularly. Keep the soil moist, not soggy. As the leaves fall off, remove them from the pot and discard. Cut back any stems that are rotting to below the dead area. Maintain a steady temperature of 60-70º F.

In late March or early April prune stems back to leave 6-8 inch stumps. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when pruning: sap from the stems of this plant can be irritating to your skin. Continue watering the plant and begin fertilizing it according to your regular fertilizing program (I use worm castings and sea kelp to fertilize my own plants). The plant should begin a rigorous growth spurt.

By early June, your plant should be ready for a bigger pot. Keep up regular watering and fertilization. If it is warm enough outside, you can put it outside where it will get lots of light. Pinch back the new growth periodically for a bushier plant. You should bring your poinsettia indoors at the onset of Fall and before the nights begin to get longer and cooler.

How to Make Your Poinsettia Red Again

The Poinsettia is a photoperiod plant. This means that they naturally begin to bud and produce flowers according to the number of hours they spend in darkness. If you want to re-bloom your poinsettia indoors you will need to observe the following steps, beginning at the end of September.

Every night place a black bag or cardboard box over the plant and put the plant inside a dark closet. The poinsettia must be in complete darkness for 14 hours each night. In the daytime place the plant in a sunny window. Once the plant begins to bud (8-10 weeks), you can place it into a sunny window permanently and your poinsettia will be red with yellow flowers in time for the holidays.

Comments Off

Save Your Plant – Pineapple Top

If you happen to have a pineapple on hand to eat, (and they are abundant and cheap during the late spring and summer months), then why not take a few minutes and grow your own pineapple plant from the discarded top?

It seems nearly mythological that anyone can grow a tropical fruit such as pineapple in his or her own home. But as long as you have a sunny window and a moderate indoor climate you can grow your own. Don’t expect a large harvest. Each plant produces one fruit and yours will never grow to the size of a full grown Hawaiian-farmed plant, unless you do live in a tropical climate.

Pineapple
Ananas comosus

  • High in vitamin C
  • First commercially grown in Hawaii
  • Anana means “excellent fruit”

A fruit that is green and fresh picked is best. But, since it is unlikely that you would want to eat such a fruit, try to find one that is ripe but not overripe. Test for ripeness by gently pulling on a leaf. If it pops out with ease, the fruit is overripe.

At home, slice the crown (that’s the leafy top part) off the fruit. Be sure to remove all the flesh. If you don’t remove this material it may rot in the soil. Carefully slice small, horizontal sections from the crown until you see root buds that appear as small dots or circles on the cut surface. [See pic] The root buds are where the roots will eventually emerge and exposing them will facilitate quicker root formation. My pineapple top already had small roots formed as well. Strip off about an inch of lower leaves from the base to provide a stem for planting in the soil. Then set the plant top aside for a minimum of seven days in a dry place, out of full sun. The cut end must be allowed to heal and dry before planting, otherwise the plant will rot in the soil.
Although the pineapple plant is a Bromeliad, it is not an air plant and requires a soil bed. Regular potting soil is sufficient, but I like to add a small amount of sand to the mixture. Pineapple plants require soil that is barely moist, not wet. I suggest using a clay or terracotta pot that breathes, to help avoid over-watering. Water your plant once a week, spraying the leaves in addition to wetting the soil. Fertilize four to six times a year.

The pineapple plant requires a lot of light. Keep yours in a sunny window throughout the winter, in a location that is protected from drafts and cold temperatures. In summer place your plant outside in a sunny location, being careful to allow the plant to adjust to more direct light by placing it in an area with partial sun for a few days first. If you don’t take this precaution your plant will be burned. Do not leave your plant out during freezing weather. Pineapple plants should never be subjected to temperatures lower then 60 degrees F ( 16 C ).

Getting a pineapple to bear fruit is harder than growing one. Once your plant is approximately 25-30 inches tall it will flower and produce fruit on its own. But how many people have the space for a 30 inch plus spiky plant? It will take at least two years to grow a plant of that size in a temperate climate.
Luckily, there is a way to force your plant to flower and bear fruit when it is half that size.

Wait until the winter season when the days are shorter and the nights cooler. Pineapple plants normally begin to produce fruit during this time. Place the entire plant, including the pot, into a plastic bag with some ripe apples. As apples rot, they emit Ethylene gas which tricks the plant into forming a flower instead of producing new leaves. Keep the plant in the bag with the apples for approximately 2 weeks or so. Place the plant back in a sunny window and wait for a flower spike to form in the center of the plant.

After several months the flower will dry out and the pineapple will form at the top end of the stem. Wait until the fruit turns a golden yellow colour before picking. After harvesting the fruit you may notice new shoots left on the plant. These can be removed and planted in the same method as the original mother plant. You can also grow another plant from the crown of the harvested fruit, leaving you with several, new, free plants.

Comments Off

Lawns to Gardens. Convert!

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Want to turf your lawn and put in a garden instead? It’s easy. Fall is the perfect time to create a new garden, but summer is the time to get started.

You may already know what you’d like your garden to grow. But if you’re planning on changing a lawn into a garden, removing grass and preparing the soil is the important first step.

The classic method of creating a new garden bed is this: grab a square-edged spade and start wrestling with the grass roots. The sod is cut into one-by-one squares, ripped up, then composted.

An alternative to this backbreaking method is the sod conversion. Instead of being ripped up, sod is covered with a light proof material, usually newspaper. A thick layer of compost or topsoil (six inches minimum) is applied directly overtop. Eventually the grass underneath will die off and decompose. Planting can then be done without any cultivation of the soil, which saves a lot of work.

Whether sod is removed or covered, additional soil or compost will be required to prepare a new garden bed for planting. That’s because larger plants such as shrubs and trees have deeper roots then grass, and so require more topsoil than the six inches usually found beneath lawns. This is especially true in newer housing developments where a six-inch layer is the rule. If you live in the country or an older neighbourhood, you may have more to work with.

Sod removal is hard work, but results are instant. Be ready to plant and mulch right away though: all soil contains weed seeds just waiting to sprout. If you don’t, expect to spend a lot of time weeding until plantings mature and begin to spread. If you are planting seeds, mulch around seedlings while they are still young. Also, expect to cultivate and amend the soil (adding soil to what’s already there). Lawns get a lot of foot traffic, and compacted soil is the result. Cultivation will make the soil easier to plant into, and will create pockets of air, essential for plant growth. And the soil probably isn’t rich enough to support a garden. Mix in compost and topsoil.

Sod conversion takes more time. To start a sod conversion, layer newspapers (at least seven sheets thick) or plastic over grass. Garden centres sell a thick black plastic made for this purpose, but layers of newspapers will work just as well, and they’re free and ecologically friendly. If plastic is used, it has to be removed once the grass dies, and replaced by mulch. Newspapers will simply decompose over time. Cover newspapers with a thick layer of compost (six to twelve inches). Once the grass is covered, it will decompose over six to eight weeks. The newspaper will decompose more slowly. The grass becomes soil-improving compost, and at the same time creates air pockets in the soil. After eight weeks have passed, dig into the compost, cut through the newspaper if needed, and plant or seed your new garden bed. You’ll likely want to prevent weeds by adding mulch.

This method is a lot less work than sod removal. There’s no need to get out the spade or cultivate the soil beneath the grass. But it takes patience. Don’t plant too soon: the heat generated during composting can burn plantings.

How do these two methods compare cost-wise? They come out about even. Either way, you’ll have to spend money on mulch and compost, and with sod removal, on a good quality soil mix, unless you have a huge supply already.

Whatever method you choose, plan on mulching. Mulch is amazing stuff. It stops weeds from growing, holds moisture much better than soil, and it prevents erosion too. The most affordable method of mulching is a combination of newspapers and any other mulching material. Unattractive but practical newspaper will stop weeds from spouting, so that a thinner layer of any other mulch can be applied overtop. Cedar chips, straw, and compost are three popular mulches. Cedar chips are a good-looking, but pricey, mulch. Compost works well, though weeds may take hold eventually. So does straw. It’s cheap, though a lot of people find it `messy looking’ or `unattractive’. Also, garden centres rarely sell straw, and if they do, it’s overpriced. A better source of straw is a local horse or cow farm.

Whatever method you choose, be patient. It takes at least two years for a new garden to really fill out and start to bloom and grow. It’s going to look a bit thin at first. And keep in mind that the soil in your garden will feed your plants for years to come. The better the soil, the better the garden.

Comments Off

Make Your Own Pop Bottle Drip Irrigation System

The last time I forgot to water my outdoor potted plants and discovered them completely wilted and hanging on the cusp of near death, I decided it was time to take action. Some of the plants on my deck receive a full, searing sun all day long during the hottest mid summer days. While these plants thrive under such conditions if properly taken care of, they will die quickly if they don’t receive enough water. Although it has been unusually rainy this year in these parts, full sun deck plants will still get extremely hot and dry very quickly.

One of the best ways to provide a steady water supply to your plants without your constant attention is the gradual watering system or drip irrigation. Through this method a device is employed that slowly delivers water into the soil directly around the roots. Commercial watering spikes can be purchased from you local garden centre however, using recycled materials you can make your own drip irrigation system for free.

The materials you will need are as follows:

  • 2 litre plastic soda bottle or water bottle that still has the lid
  • Drill and small drill bit
  • Sharp knife
  • Cutting surface

Drill 4-8 small holes into the cap of the plastic bottle. If you want it to drip slower use less holes, faster use more holes. Don’t make holes that are too small, they will become clogged up by debris. Remove the bottom of the bottle by cutting across with a sharp knife. I find a serrated knife works well. Removing the bottom of the bottle creates a funnel for you to easily pour water into. The wide mouthed opening will also catch some water when it rains.

Dig a hole next to a plant or in between a grouping of plants that is deep enough to bury at least one third to one half of the bottle. If you position the bottle in amongst a grouping of plants it will be hidden from view. Place the bottle in the hole with the cap side down and secure it into the hole by pressing dirt around it. This will ensure that your bottle stays in place. Pour water into the bottle until it is full. You can add fertilizer to the bottle every few weeks so that your plants are fertilized right at the roots.

You will need to fill your bottle when it is empty, once a day or less depending on how much direct, hot sun your plants receive. Make several bottles to place in all your large containers or next to plants in your garden such as tomatoes that require a lot of water.

Comments Off