Don’t have room for a garden? Knit Your Own!

Guest post by Kelly Gilliam

So besides being an avid gardening, I’ve an avid knitter. That means I’m always looking for cool new things to knit up.

Today I got the idea in my head “hey, what about knitting plants??”

So after a little searching I found these awesome knit plants that you can make.

Baby Knit Veggies

Garden Variety (more veggies!)

A knit opuntia (sorry no instructions, but can be a launching point for ideas!)

And possibly the most easy thing you can do:
1. Get a feltable yarn (a 100% non-superwash wool will work)
2. Knit the basic shape of a flower (a great directory of free flower patterns here)
3. Knit an i-cord.
4. Felt the i-cord and string a sturdy wire through it.
5. Sew a pot from felt (a-la the above knit opuntia)
6. Put it all together and ta-da! A knit plant! Guaranteed to never wilt or die, and never need watering.

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Getting My Seeds Started, Right

This year will go down in history as the year I not only started seeds on time, organized all seeds by category (direct sow, indoor starts, and never-going-to-grow-it-so-trade-it-already), AND managed to draw up some kind of “plan” beyond casual (and quickly forgetten) mental lists. I rule. For now. We’ll see what happens when transplant buying season begins. I have a little problem with plant-related impulse buys that completely throw well-made plans out the window.

Regardless, bear witness to my awesomeness.

Seeds are started

Nine containers were washed, filled with seed-starting mix and planted up with nine carefully chosen veggies:

  • Hot Pepper ‘Fish’
  • Sweet Pepper ‘Pepperoncini’
  • Eggplant ‘Turkish Orange’
  • Tomato ‘Broad Ripple Yellow Currant’
  • Tomato ‘Sunrise III’
  • Tomato ‘Silver Fir Tree’
  • Tomato ‘Black Pear’
  • Tomato ‘Ceylon’
  • Tomato ‘Costoluto Genovese’

Seeds inside a recycled container

Two smaller 4-cell packs were washed, filled with seed-starting mix and planted with annuals:

  • Nicotiana sylvestris
  • Pansy ‘Can Can

The humidity dome pictured is actually a used plastic container that once held salad mix. I just flipped it over, making the lid my tray, and the container my dome. Good-sized take-away containers also work well.

I also transplanted the African violet seedlings that were grown from leaf cuttings. Some of the original leaves had good-sized stems so I recut them and started again.

The weather was beautiful a few days ago so I headed off to the community garden and popped in a few sugar peas ‘Carouby de Maussane’ (sweet peas with ornamental, purple flowers).

Seeds from West Coast Seeds

And finally, my newest seed shipment arrived this week along with a few recent trades. I couldn’t resist a pack of ‘Baie Vert’ pole beans from Colette’s stand at the Farmer’s Market this week. I am easily enticed by the words “rare heirloom” and back stories that involve trades between Acadians and Native groups. I just put in two additional seed orders today. The only thing I didn’t manage to get on my list was ‘purple mizuna‘. Regardless, if the stacks of seed packets are any indication, all of my bases are pretty much covered.

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From the Ground Up: Adventures in Making My Own Plot

Guest post by Kelly Gilliam

So you’ve just moved into a new place. You look around, and find yourself in a jam. Maybe your new yard doesn’t come with a garden plot, or perhaps the plot there is so overgrown with weeds that it looks like it hasn’t been touched in ten years. Whatever your situation, there’s no reason you can’t forge ahead and create your own sustainable and personal garden. All you need are some good tools, a little bit of research, and a plan for what you want to grow.

Last year I was presented with the problem of starting over, completely from scratch. After much prodding, my upstairs landlords had given me the okay to use a small, five-foot-square plot of land. They had left it unused and uncared for, apparently for the entire time they had owned the house. It baffled me that the clay-logged soil, infested with weeds, could ever have housed a working garden. Regardless, I was hell-bent on making my own little garden to grow not only hardy plants, but vegetables and more sensitive species as well.

I started by deciding exactly what it was that I wanted to grow. Being in love with the idea of one day growing all my own fruits and vegetables (to the point where I wouldn’t have to buy any save for the off-season), I decided the bulk of my plants would be vegetables and herbs. Luckily, my new plot received almost full sun and would be ideal for growing tomatoes, cucumbers, and herbs.

The next step was to break up the clay soil and add organic material to support the plants. Thankfully, I had recently bought Andy Sturgeon’s “Planted” and it proved to be an indispensable resource on soil types. At the time, I was working at a greenhouse so I was also able to learn from my co-workers. For my five by five foot area I settled on 30 L of mushroom manure, 60 L of topsoil and 20 Kg of washed sand. I dedicated a full day to re-conditioning my soil.

My first act in the plot was to rip out all of the larger weeds—anything over 15 cm in height or spread. I decided that I couldn’t rip out all of the smaller weeds, so I took my good, heavy-duty metal shovel and worked from one end to the other, turning over all the soil to break it up.

If there’s one nugget of wisdom I’d like to impart, it’s the value of getting yourself a good metal shovel. Plastic shovels, while cheaper, cannot take the strain of tough soil or tons of use (that goes for the handle as well the blade). It’s definitely worth the money to go all out on a good shovel; if you do you can get a life’s worth of use out of it.

For the next round of digging, I took the sand—all 20L of it—and threw it over the garden in segments, turning over each area with my shovel and a large metal-toothed rake as I went. I had decided that it was best to break up the clay with sand first, and then try to work in the organic material.

I worked in the mushroom manure using the same method I had with the sand. I chose mushroom manure not only to break up the soil, but also to add lots of nutrients. I did not want to be fertilizing every few weeks all summer, preferring to create something much more sustainable and low maintenance.

After I had finished with the manure I added the topsoil, to give the soil lots of bulk and more drainage. I had removed particularly large clumps of clay along the way and needed some filler for those areas.

When I was done, after nearly three hours, I was left with rich, dark soil that drained well but could also hold water on those long hot days when the plot would be in full sun. I was tired, but I was really excited that I had personalized my garden, and without even planting anything. I started to better understand that gardening all begins with the soil—that seems like such common knowledge, but it is easily overlooked in the haste and excitement of planning the look of a garden.

The next day I went to the greenhouse where I worked and picked up my vegetables, herbs and ornamentals. Because of the direct sun my garden would receive almost all-day, I made sure to pick lots of sun-loving plants. Tomatoes took up most of the room in my garden in the long run; my four baby plants eventually grew to over three feet tall and produced fruit constantly up until November, with no fertilizing. I planted several varieties of rudbeckia, as well as four types of basil, rosemary, dill, borage (a great herb with a cool cucumber flavour and beautiful little, blue, star-shaped flowers), fennel, cucumber, a lime plant, passionflower, and many other flowers. I also planted bee balm right beside my herbs and tomatoes to attract bees for pollination.

With a little research and a lot of persistence I had started from the ground up and made my own little garden according to my own tastes and needs. It took remarkably little of me save a few hours in the sun (with lots of sunscreen and water by my side), and I gained much from it. Not only did I have a garden, but I had created the area all myself and I really felt like it was my own. I had a bond with my garden that I’d never quite experienced before.

I’ve since moved from that basement suite into another urban basement suite, and that little plot is now somebody else’s. My current place doesn’t have any land of its own, but there is a perfect spot in the yard, calling my name, waiting to be transformed. I find myself really excited at the prospect of once again creating my own personal space.

Kelly is a city-dweller from Vancouver, B.C. Originally from the prairies, she was amazed to find that in Vancouver you can garden three-fourths of the year. She’s currently attending film school, and whenever she’s not in the stages of production she can be found digging around in her garden. She is also a photographer and her work can be viewed at Devileye.net.

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My Own Private Permaculture

Guest post by Anne Boyer

I planned my first garden for ten years. I fell asleep fantasizing about what I would do with land when I finally owned some: there would be the blue room, exploding with morning glories and delphiniums, the fruit room surrounded by a thick patch of brambles, the grandmother room full of zinnias, potato plants, four o’clocks and poppies. I read everything I could about flowers and fruit. I read 1950s extension pamphlets, my mother’s 1970s Rodale organic guides, and my Better Homes and Garden New Garden Book from 1961.

Organic gardening seemed like a natural choice. My mother never sprayed; my grandmother never sprayed. But was organic “organic” enough for me, or was it just a comforting label accompanied by a discomforting price tag? Would organic alone turn my small city lot, my very first garden, into a heaven of food and flowers?

The purchase of my little city house coincided with my discovery of permaculture. The word permaculture suggested to me something heady and wild, a step beyond organic. It is a philosophy of observing and working with nature. Permaculture provided me with a big picture; organic methods became a narrow slice of it. When I finally settled into my first garden, permaculture helped me accommodate those ten years of flora fantasies in one small, stressed out city space.

Zoned Out

One of the keys to permaculture landscape planning is the “zone system.” The first winter in my city house, I looked out at my small yard and struggled to divide it into proper permaculture zones. Zone one would comprise the most visited and intensively used areas. Zone two would be a semi-intensively cultivated area. Zone three would be the farm zone, four would be a forest or pond, and five would be altogether wild.

The problem with this zone approach was a problem of proportion. I found myself struggling to find space for more than the first and second zones.

Furthermore, permaculture suggests growing intensely cultivated food right up next to the house, and the soil next to my house, as is common with houses built before 1950, was likely contaminated with lead paint dust. I couldn’t just poison my family for the sake of an ultra-permacultural landscape plan.

At this point I stepped back from my paint-by-zone-numbers approached to permaculture, took a deep yoga breath, and decided to observe what was going on rather than impose my will. A flexible approach proved very practical.

In a city, zones do not just radiate from every individual dwelling like orbits in so many solar systems. While we can create tiny pockets of wildness among the urban cultivation, those of us who aren’t large landowners have to see beyond our individual properties to find the other zones. The farms we support through our membership in CSAs become our zone three. Parks and publicly owned wild spaces become our zones four and five.

Indeed, for a small city lot with contaminated soil close to the house, a slight inversion of the zones is common sense. A bit of wildness up close to the house can rebuild and soothe the soil. A more traditional, cultivated landscaping approach can exist on the borders between neighbor and neighbor as a gesture of community good will.

Easy Now

The loveliness of the soil became a strong motivation to proceed mindfully in my garden work. “Multiple use” has become my mantra for any gardening decision. I have to be a frugal gardener in more ways than one: if a plant is going to come live at my house it should feed me, provide me materials for crafts or other activities, feed wildlife, provide shelter, and look good as well. Perennials and self-sowing annuals beat high-maintenance plants hands down. Domestic animals face the same test. We are planning for the arrival of three pullets (young hens) this spring only because the will feed us, entertain us, eat bad bugs, fertilize our soil, and look nifty. This is not just a cruel, human-centered philosophy, because I, too, am required to have multiple uses in my landscape. I am not just a consumer, but a producer and a recycler.

One of the sweetest aspects of permaculture is its philosophy of easy labor. In a permaculture garden, one composts in place through trenches and sheet mulches, one eats from perennial food sources rather than planting annual crops year after year, one plants in “guilds” of inter-related plants rather than in destructive (and high-maintenance) monocultures, and one is as water wise as possible. I didn’t want to be the one responsible for turning beautiful soil beastly, and by layering and careful planting I knew I could keep the cycle of fertility going and save myself a great deal of labor in the long run.

Being Permaculture

My garden is not Eden. I’ve been here two growing seasons, and one could never tell this place was once just lawn and four trees. Yet one still can’t tell that it is on its way to sustainable. I know that I compost less in a bin and more in place, that I water less and less, that I ate more the second year than I did the first, and will probably do less labor this third year than I did the second.

I once had a tai-chi instructor, a retired librarian named Ruth, inform me that I couldn’t just do tai-chi, I had to be tai-chi. In the same way, I’m trying to be permaculture, to move it from an intellectual realm to an emotional and behavioral one.

For example, my backyard trees (a Chinese elm and a maple) provide too much shade for me to grow much food in the back yard, so I’m moving the food production to the front and finding other uses for the shady backside of the house. I’m reading about forest gardens, thinking about ways to use the tiny slices of light between the leaves. This spring I plan to walk through the woods more, to see what is growing, and perhaps cultivate some woodland herbs and fruits (like may apple) instead of forcing my refined sunny space ideal on the land.

This year I have elderberries and currants in mind, and perennial Maxmillan sunflowers to feed my big flower cravings and the birds. I also want grape vines and hippy roses for teas.

The trick is to work through all my wants (the hippy roses, the currants) without an exhausting input of resources (nursery raised plants, commercial mulches and compost). Permaculture suggests that the faraway zones (3, 4, and5) are resources for the up-close, cultivated ones. I’ve applied my personal permacultural approach to this problem and plan to organize an exchange among my gardening acquaintances this spring.

A city garden is not a separate thing, but part of a larger community of land use. As we work together to replace the monoculture of lawn with the polyculture of multiple use plants, we are turning our private yards into stamps of a shared ecosystem. Permaculture extends beyond what we do as private individuals on private land. It reflects not just a philosophy of gardening but of life and community. It is larger than organic, an enthusiastic acceptance of nature and humanity in all our shared complexity.

Hillary Rosner, a freelance journalist and lifelong New Yorker, recently moved to Boulder, Colorado. Until last year, her only experience with gardening was studying botany in the fifth grade. She has written for many national publications and is currently working on a master’s degree in environmental studies.

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Urban Composting


Guest post by Kelly Gilliam

Make this budget conscious compost bin for your deck or small outdoor space.

One benefit to having your own yard and garden is plenty of room. However, some of us live in tight apartments and are forced to have container gardens. Because of space, the urban dweller may conclude that composting is impossible. However, this doesn’t have to be the case.

In my ongoing quest to take more control of my garden right down to the soil I use, I went on a hunt for information on how to make my own small-time composting bin. My initial inspiration was “urban EDEN” by Adam & James Caplin. Since I live in a small area, I don?t require huge amounts of compost. I decided to make my own bin from a Rubbermaid container; it was dark, portable, easy to find and — most importantly — affordable. The following is an account of how I made my bin.

Please note that this how-to is for an outdoor container. It is small enough to fit on a balcony or around the side of a house if you are in a house suite.

Materials:

  • Rubbermaid container (1 1/2 feet by 1 1/4 feet.)
  • “Browns”: Dead leaves, brown grass clippings, wood, sticks, shredded newspaper, dead plants, rice, pine needles
  • “Greens”: Fresh grass and other plant clippings, fruit and vegetable parts, coffee grounds (with or without filter), tea bags, wool, human hair
  • Extra newspaper
  • A good knife
  1. Clean the Rubbermaid container, removing all stickers and labels. Take your knife and cut holes along the edges of the bin’s lid, about 1 centimeter wide. I placed these about 3 centimeters apart. Next, cut a few holes in the middle of the lid. These holes will allow air and moisture to circulate.
  2. Turn your bin over and cut some drainage holes (the water has to go somewhere, right?). I placed two slits in each corner, about a half-centimeter wide and 3 centimeters long. They should be big enough for drainage, but not enough to allow your compost to spill out.
  3. Rip up your extra newspaper and put it in the bottom of the bin. The shreds should be no more than 1 inch thick, and should fill up the container about 5 to 6 inches.

  1. Gather all your “browns.” Place them on top of the newspaper. Your bin should be about one-third to one-half full.
  2. Gather your “greens.” Place these on top of your browns. Your compost bin should be almost full. Make sure to leave a little room at the top though.

  1. Place your bin outside (if it isn’t already there). If you must place it directly on a deck, a second extra lid can be placed underneath as a drip tray.
  2. Water. Make sure it’s damp, but not so wet that everything is floating around. If you live in a rainy climate, you can let nature take its course and wet your compost for you.
  3. Wait.
  4. In about 3-4 weeks, go out and give your compost a good turn. This will allow the microbes that are decomposing everything to spread around. Repeat every 3-4 weeks.
  5. Within 6-8 months, you should have a brown, earthy-smelling mixture. That’s your compost!

To my surprise, worms found their way into my compost. If your bin sits on the ground and not on concrete (like a balcony) or on top of the lid then worms will probably find their way into your bin as well. They’re a nice bonus, but definitely not necessary in composting.

Tips:
Starbucks Coffee will hand out their organic waste if you ask them. A warning though: It comes in huge bags, and unless you have somebody to split the bounty with, there won’t be room in your bin for it.
Make sure never to place meat, bones, animal waste or dairy products into your compost. These will only attract rodents and vermin, especially in an urban setting.
Do not use your compost as a replacement for potting soil. It is too heavy for plants to live solely on and might burn them. Instead, mix about one part compost with three parts regular potting or topsoil. This will be more than enough for your plants to get their nutrients.
Add to the bin constantly to allow for good compost throughout the season.
Never add plants that are diseased, as the disease can spread through your compost and be passed on to any plants you use the compost on.
Do not use compost indoors, as it is not sterilized and could carry pests.

Kelly is an urban-dweller from Vancouver, B.C. gardening out of containers due to her city enclosure. Originally from the prairies, she moved out to Vancouver fresh out of high school and was amazed to find that you can garden three-fourths of the year. She is constantly bringing home more and more plants that she really has no more room for. Her favourites are cacti/succulents, herbs and sub-tropicals. Kelly runs Devileye.net in her spare time.

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