Save Your Plant – Poinsettia

It used to be lush, vibrant red and in full bloom. It arrived wrapped in a lovely foil wrapper. But now the few leaves left are about to succumb to gravity, and more leaves are falling off. What can you do to restore it to it’s original goodness?

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

  • Member of the spurge family
  • Originally from Mexico
  • Red ‘petals’ are actually modified leaves called bracts
  • The flowers are the tiny, yellow centre

If your poinsettia looks like this one [see photo], don’t give up on it yet. You may be able to restore it to its original form. Chances are that at this stage neglect has reduced your poinsettia to stems with few leaves and the plant has entered a dormancy stage. The first thing you should do is place it in a sunny window that is not subject to cold drafts. A south-facing window is good, but avoid harsh, direct light. Water regularly. Keep the soil moist, not soggy. As the leaves fall off, remove them from the pot and discard. Cut back any stems that are rotting to below the dead area. Maintain a steady temperature of 60-70º F.

In late March or early April prune stems back to leave 6-8 inch stumps. Be sure to wear rubber gloves when pruning: sap from the stems of this plant can be irritating to your skin. Continue watering the plant and begin fertilizing it according to your regular fertilizing program (I use worm castings and sea kelp to fertilize my own plants). The plant should begin a rigorous growth spurt.

By early June, your plant should be ready for a bigger pot. Keep up regular watering and fertilization. If it is warm enough outside, you can put it outside where it will get lots of light. Pinch back the new growth periodically for a bushier plant. You should bring your poinsettia indoors at the onset of Fall and before the nights begin to get longer and cooler.

How to Make Your Poinsettia Red Again

The Poinsettia is a photoperiod plant. This means that they naturally begin to bud and produce flowers according to the number of hours they spend in darkness. If you want to re-bloom your poinsettia indoors you will need to observe the following steps, beginning at the end of September.

Every night place a black bag or cardboard box over the plant and put the plant inside a dark closet. The poinsettia must be in complete darkness for 14 hours each night. In the daytime place the plant in a sunny window. Once the plant begins to bud (8-10 weeks), you can place it into a sunny window permanently and your poinsettia will be red with yellow flowers in time for the holidays.

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Save Your Plant – Pineapple Top

If you happen to have a pineapple on hand to eat, (and they are abundant and cheap during the late spring and summer months), then why not take a few minutes and grow your own pineapple plant from the discarded top?

It seems nearly mythological that anyone can grow a tropical fruit such as pineapple in his or her own home. But as long as you have a sunny window and a moderate indoor climate you can grow your own. Don’t expect a large harvest. Each plant produces one fruit and yours will never grow to the size of a full grown Hawaiian-farmed plant, unless you do live in a tropical climate.

Pineapple
Ananas comosus

  • High in vitamin C
  • First commercially grown in Hawaii
  • Anana means “excellent fruit”

A fruit that is green and fresh picked is best. But, since it is unlikely that you would want to eat such a fruit, try to find one that is ripe but not overripe. Test for ripeness by gently pulling on a leaf. If it pops out with ease, the fruit is overripe.

At home, slice the crown (that’s the leafy top part) off the fruit. Be sure to remove all the flesh. If you don’t remove this material it may rot in the soil. Carefully slice small, horizontal sections from the crown until you see root buds that appear as small dots or circles on the cut surface. [See pic] The root buds are where the roots will eventually emerge and exposing them will facilitate quicker root formation. My pineapple top already had small roots formed as well. Strip off about an inch of lower leaves from the base to provide a stem for planting in the soil. Then set the plant top aside for a minimum of seven days in a dry place, out of full sun. The cut end must be allowed to heal and dry before planting, otherwise the plant will rot in the soil.
Although the pineapple plant is a Bromeliad, it is not an air plant and requires a soil bed. Regular potting soil is sufficient, but I like to add a small amount of sand to the mixture. Pineapple plants require soil that is barely moist, not wet. I suggest using a clay or terracotta pot that breathes, to help avoid over-watering. Water your plant once a week, spraying the leaves in addition to wetting the soil. Fertilize four to six times a year.

The pineapple plant requires a lot of light. Keep yours in a sunny window throughout the winter, in a location that is protected from drafts and cold temperatures. In summer place your plant outside in a sunny location, being careful to allow the plant to adjust to more direct light by placing it in an area with partial sun for a few days first. If you don’t take this precaution your plant will be burned. Do not leave your plant out during freezing weather. Pineapple plants should never be subjected to temperatures lower then 60 degrees F ( 16 C ).

Getting a pineapple to bear fruit is harder than growing one. Once your plant is approximately 25-30 inches tall it will flower and produce fruit on its own. But how many people have the space for a 30 inch plus spiky plant? It will take at least two years to grow a plant of that size in a temperate climate.
Luckily, there is a way to force your plant to flower and bear fruit when it is half that size.

Wait until the winter season when the days are shorter and the nights cooler. Pineapple plants normally begin to produce fruit during this time. Place the entire plant, including the pot, into a plastic bag with some ripe apples. As apples rot, they emit Ethylene gas which tricks the plant into forming a flower instead of producing new leaves. Keep the plant in the bag with the apples for approximately 2 weeks or so. Place the plant back in a sunny window and wait for a flower spike to form in the center of the plant.

After several months the flower will dry out and the pineapple will form at the top end of the stem. Wait until the fruit turns a golden yellow colour before picking. After harvesting the fruit you may notice new shoots left on the plant. These can be removed and planted in the same method as the original mother plant. You can also grow another plant from the crown of the harvested fruit, leaving you with several, new, free plants.

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Lawns to Gardens

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich


Complete strangers step onto Bill Hulet’s patio to tell him how much they like his garden. Many of the houses on his street, which runs between downtown and a commercial strip, are rented to busy students. Until Hulet and two others bought one of those rental houses two years ago and began turning the beat-up lawn into gardens, the street was an unremarkable but convenient route for pedestrians headed downtown.

Julie Petrella lives on another bustling pedestrian route on the opposite edge of the downtown core. She is surprised by the amount of attention her garden gets from passersby.

“People actually stop and talk to you,” she says. “I think people start talking about gardens and then they do things. People are changing the way they think about their gardens.”


Plants like clematis, Virginia creeper and hollyhocks now thrive in the “gritty” soil along the city-owned laneway behind her house. Her tree-sheltered front yard contains shade plants, and its edge, like those of her neighbours all along the street, slants steeply down to the sidewalk. When she established what is now a lush hillside tangle of spring bulbs, roses, peonies, lilies, ivy, myrtle, sage, lavenders, and spirea, many of her neighbours were inspired to follow her lead.

The garden of Tanya Olsen, who works at Royal City Garden Centre in Guelph, Ontario, where Hulet and Petrella live, gets the same attention. She naturalized her front yard three years ago. “We were the first people on the block,” she says. “In the last two years, I’ve seen six or seven follow. We have an awful lot of people in the neighbourhood who stop by and look.”

Petrella moved from a big rural property into the city four years ago.

“We didn’t even bring a lawn mower,” she says. “I hate the noise. Our whole intention was to get rid of the thing.”

Bill Hulet, along with Mike Clancy and Mary Van Der Woude, who bought their house together as a co-op, don’t have a scrap of lawn to mow either. Even the city-owned verge is planted. His garden is ecologically minded. He composts, collects water in rain barrels and makes great use of mulch. The yard contains many native plants, such as bee balm and celedyne, as well as others put there specifically to attract birds, butterflies, wasps, bees and insects. He also makes use of vertical space, and gardens in containers on the patio, formerly the driveway. Fellow resident Van Der Woude’s garden makes use of the principles of companion planting to grow vegetables, herbs, and berries as well as annuals, flowers, and even a cactus that survived the winter in perfect form. She also makes use of her space with trellised, climbing plants, and collects rainwater.

“It’s no secret that the lawn is an iconic image for the middle class capitalist world-view,” Hulet says. “Our yard has different plants, different textures, and is always changing. It’s harder to see that with a lawn. The idea with a lawn is to be like a billiard table. What you aim for is to minimize diversity and maximize uniformity.”

More and more people are getting rid of their lawns and naturalizing their gardens. It’s a trend that Henry Koch, interpretive horticulturist at The Arboretum, University of Guelph, sees as a reaction to “a conquest against nature, literally,” that began with the colonization of North America.

Today, Koch says, people are reacting to the absence of nature in the urban landscape. “The psyche of the new, North American post-hippie is asking “Where’s nature? What is this absurd creature we have in a lawn? What the hell’s the point of it?”

“In the late 1800’s, people had just finished clearcutting,” Koch says, a necessity to settlers who needed agricultural land and feared the both the bush and the Native American peoples who lived in it. Settlers also had a natural desire to recreate the pastoral, agricultural landscapes they’d left behind in Europe.

It was a similar desire for re-creation that brought the lawn, with a little help from the hugely influential, public-minded architect Frederic Law Olmstead, to North America during the time of the Industrial Revolution of the late 1800’s.

“The lawn of North America is inspired by the pastures of England that were grazed by sheep,” Koch explains. Frederic Law Olmstead went to England in the midst of the Industrial Revolution and visited the lush lawned private estate gardens of aristocracy. At the same time, Olmstead observed the difficult living and working conditions of the Revolution in both England and North America.

“Olmstead returned to America and persuaded the ‘chiefs’ of New York to have a public–not private–park, to provide relief from the working conditions of the Industrial Revolution,” Koch says.

Central Park, echoing the gardens of aristocracy but serving the people, was built, while, at the same time, the lawn mower was invented. Then Olmstead went on to design more parks and America’s first suburb, ‘Riverside’ in Chicago. Incorporated into its design was the ‘thirty foot set-back’ of houses from the road. Blanketing that expanse from house to sidewalk were and are–park-like lawns.

Today it’s common knowledge that the conquest against nature has been all too successful. Koch thinks naturalization is partly a response to growing concern about the environment. “We’re looking at the world around us, and we read daily the horror story of species extinction, pollution, the horror story of the environment.”

Gardens are places for “the daily experience of natural relationships,” Koch says, while lawns or brief yearly vacations ‘into’ nature aren’t. “The whole garden becomes a story. It’s full of surprises.”

“We no longer see that we are the all important thing in creation. It’s got a being of its own.”

Tanya Olsen has helped many people plan naturalized gardens. “People are looking for tranquility,” she says. “They want to come home and leave the chaos of work. The garden becomes an extension of living space. ”

She attributes part of their popularity to the past recession that had people travelling less and spending more time at home: she says that people visit the garden centre wanting to build gardens and patios instead of buying cottages.

In her experience, though, it’s sometimes more a matter of pride in property. “People are taking more and more pride in their houses,” she says, “and I guess a lot of people out there have to one-up their neighbours.”

“A nice garden, or anything that makes people say — I have to have — will make a house sell faster, though it hasn’t contributed to property value up to now.” says Guelph real estate agent Helen Kusserow. “Eventually that will come but we’re not there yet.”

Olsen and Koch agree that native plants are very popular these days alongside time-tested garden favourites. But as a horticulturist, Koch thinks the impact of a naturalized garden is equivalent–for creatures and people alike whether filled with native plants or exotic botanical specimens.

At the same time, he acknowledges that gardens are “artificial botanical zoos, a far cry from nature” that condense a geographical diversity of plants into a small space. “Wildlife functions in relation to the structure of landscape. Birds don’t give a damn whether the structure came from Europe or North America. ” Where lawns demand routine, joyless (to most people) maintenance, gardens demand imagination. “I want to go outside and putter and you can’t go out and putter with a lawn mower.” says Petrella of the work she does in her “English-style” garden.

Hulet feels that lawns are about conformity and control. “Your head manifests itself in your lawn,” he says. With his garden, Hulet aims for just the opposite. “It’s about teaching yourself to see subtleties and respect the world of difference,” he says.

Likewise, Koch wouldn’t want to impose a garden ideal or icon. “Some people do their gardens neat, some people let it roll. Diversity is inherent to nature, we’re part of nature Thank goodness there’s diversity.”

As Petrella, surveying her street, observes, “Those green corners are going.” Like hers, and Hulet’s, over on the other side of downtown, many others in many cities have already gone.

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Lawns to Gardens. Convert!

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Want to turf your lawn and put in a garden instead? It’s easy. Fall is the perfect time to create a new garden, but summer is the time to get started.

You may already know what you’d like your garden to grow. But if you’re planning on changing a lawn into a garden, removing grass and preparing the soil is the important first step.

The classic method of creating a new garden bed is this: grab a square-edged spade and start wrestling with the grass roots. The sod is cut into one-by-one squares, ripped up, then composted.

An alternative to this backbreaking method is the sod conversion. Instead of being ripped up, sod is covered with a light proof material, usually newspaper. A thick layer of compost or topsoil (six inches minimum) is applied directly overtop. Eventually the grass underneath will die off and decompose. Planting can then be done without any cultivation of the soil, which saves a lot of work.

Whether sod is removed or covered, additional soil or compost will be required to prepare a new garden bed for planting. That’s because larger plants such as shrubs and trees have deeper roots then grass, and so require more topsoil than the six inches usually found beneath lawns. This is especially true in newer housing developments where a six-inch layer is the rule. If you live in the country or an older neighbourhood, you may have more to work with.

Sod removal is hard work, but results are instant. Be ready to plant and mulch right away though: all soil contains weed seeds just waiting to sprout. If you don’t, expect to spend a lot of time weeding until plantings mature and begin to spread. If you are planting seeds, mulch around seedlings while they are still young. Also, expect to cultivate and amend the soil (adding soil to what’s already there). Lawns get a lot of foot traffic, and compacted soil is the result. Cultivation will make the soil easier to plant into, and will create pockets of air, essential for plant growth. And the soil probably isn’t rich enough to support a garden. Mix in compost and topsoil.

Sod conversion takes more time. To start a sod conversion, layer newspapers (at least seven sheets thick) or plastic over grass. Garden centres sell a thick black plastic made for this purpose, but layers of newspapers will work just as well, and they’re free and ecologically friendly. If plastic is used, it has to be removed once the grass dies, and replaced by mulch. Newspapers will simply decompose over time. Cover newspapers with a thick layer of compost (six to twelve inches). Once the grass is covered, it will decompose over six to eight weeks. The newspaper will decompose more slowly. The grass becomes soil-improving compost, and at the same time creates air pockets in the soil. After eight weeks have passed, dig into the compost, cut through the newspaper if needed, and plant or seed your new garden bed. You’ll likely want to prevent weeds by adding mulch.

This method is a lot less work than sod removal. There’s no need to get out the spade or cultivate the soil beneath the grass. But it takes patience. Don’t plant too soon: the heat generated during composting can burn plantings.

How do these two methods compare cost-wise? They come out about even. Either way, you’ll have to spend money on mulch and compost, and with sod removal, on a good quality soil mix, unless you have a huge supply already.

Whatever method you choose, plan on mulching. Mulch is amazing stuff. It stops weeds from growing, holds moisture much better than soil, and it prevents erosion too. The most affordable method of mulching is a combination of newspapers and any other mulching material. Unattractive but practical newspaper will stop weeds from spouting, so that a thinner layer of any other mulch can be applied overtop. Cedar chips, straw, and compost are three popular mulches. Cedar chips are a good-looking, but pricey, mulch. Compost works well, though weeds may take hold eventually. So does straw. It’s cheap, though a lot of people find it `messy looking’ or `unattractive’. Also, garden centres rarely sell straw, and if they do, it’s overpriced. A better source of straw is a local horse or cow farm.

Whatever method you choose, be patient. It takes at least two years for a new garden to really fill out and start to bloom and grow. It’s going to look a bit thin at first. And keep in mind that the soil in your garden will feed your plants for years to come. The better the soil, the better the garden.

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Good Bugs, Bad Bugs: Mite vs. Mite

Guest post by Arzeena Hamir

Predatory Mite

The predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis, is a welcome insect in the garden and greenhouse. It is a fast moving insect with an orange teardrop-shaped body. The species is a specialized predator of the two-spotted spider mite and feeds on all stages of its prey, from egg to adult. The adult P. persimilis is a voracious eater, eating between 5 and 20 prey per day. It uses its sense of smell to find plants infected by spider mites. As soon as it comes into contact with spider mite webbing, it will intensify its search.

P. persimilis can be purchased from many biological control companies. It is often shipped in a glass vial or on trays of bean leaves. The easiest methodof application is to sprinkle about 20 adults on each plant. These predatory mites prefer to work their way up a plant, searching for food, so try to introduce them as low down as possible. In addition, if many plants are infected, keep them close together with their leaves touching so that these predators will be able to easily move from one plant to another.

Unlike the spider mite, P. persimilis prefers humid conditions. Misting will not only help it multiply, but will keep the spider mite population down as well. A relative humidity of 70 per cent is ideal for P. persimilis. Once its food supply is exhausted, the numbers of P. persimilis will decline as well.

Two-Spotted Spider Mite

Spider mites, also known as two-spotted mites, become a particular problem for the gardener through the winter. Normally, they hibernate in ground litter or under the bark of trees or shrubs. However, if they stowaway onto a plant being brought indoors, the artificial lights, and warm, dry, conditions of most heated homes will allow them to keep infecting plants.

The spider mite, Tetranychus urticae, is a tiny, 8-legged pest related to the spider & tick. Adults are normally green or yellow but turn red when day lengths shorten in the autumn. They attack plants by stabbing the underside of the leaves and sucking out the sap. This damage causes a distinctive stippling effect due to the loss of chlorophyll. As their numbers increase, the number of white speckles on the leaf increases and the leaf eventually dies. Once the spider mites begin reproduction, a distinctive `webbing’ forms, usually under the leaf and then at the growing tip of the plant.

What makes this pest truly difficult to control is its rate of reproduction. Each female will lay up to 12 eggs per day. Mating is not required for egg production. At 21°C, these eggs will hatch in as few as three days and will develop into adults in only 14 days. If left unchecked, 10 spider mites in May will become 100,000 by July!

Spider mites have been found in greenhouses across North America and Europe and are known to attack over 200 species of plants including azalea, camellia, citrus, evergreens, hollies, ligustrum, pittosporum, pyracantha, rose, and viburnum; fruit crops such as blackberries, blueberries and strawberries; vegetables including tomatoes, squash, eggplant, cucumber; and trees such as maple, elm, ash, black locust, and poplar.

Misting plants at least twice a day will keep spider mite numbers down. Populations can also be reduced by spraying the underside of the leaves with a jet of water to break up the webs and wash the mites off. Soap sprays are also very effective at controlling spider mites. The active ingredient, potassium or sodium salts of fatty acids, is not toxic and can safely be used indoors. A homemade spray can also be prepared using ordinary dishwashing detergent. Mix 5 tablespoons of detergent in 1 gallon of water and spray the plants, especially the underside of the leaves.

Resources
Cornell University Biological Control A guide to P. persimilis, the predatory mite

Illustrations by Davin Risk

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