Back to School with Plants

Dorm Plants: Beyond Their Beauty or Pleasing Appearance

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Science confirms what we already know. Plants make people feel better. They benefit us in a way any student who has ever looked up from a book at cold cinder block dorm walls at 3:30 in the morning will appreciate. One researcher describes the plant world as “non-threatening and non-discriminatory”. Studies into what are called people-plant interactions show that people benefit from just being near plants and gardens.

Among the findings:

  • Being near plants improves concentration and lessens mental fatigue.
  • Hospital patients with a garden view got well faster and needed less pain killer than patients whose windows looked out at the wall of another building.
  • People who have houseplants are calmer and more receptive. Interaction with plants makes people more receptive to each other as well.
  • Prison inmates with cell windows overlooking greenery are less stressed and less likely to get sick than other prisoners.
  • A study of 4,000 horticulturalists found that a sense of peace and tranquility and a chance to appreciate beauty were the best benefits of gardening, according to the gardeners themselves.
  • Just looking at a plant can lessen feelings of stress, fear, anger, and can reduce muscle tension.
  • A 1988 Gallup opinion poll found that 88 per cent of those surveyed agreed plants were important “beyond their beauty or pleasing appearance.”

That’s a lot of good vibes packed into one or two windowsill-sized plants. One biologist asserts that the human connection with nature has, throughout history, been not a luxury but a necessity. That connection, the biologist argues, explains why we react so positively to nature today. According to the research, the pleasant feelings we get from being close to nature can actually improve our health.

A spider plant in a dorm room will not only make you feel good: it will also clean the air. Plants produce oxygen while consuming carbon dioxide, and filter toxins from the air, specifically Trichloroethylene, Formaldehyde, and Benzene. These manufactured chemicals are pollutants that have ended up in our air and water. (Benzene, a chemical made of coal and oil, is also produced by volcanoes and forest fires.) They are used in industry and in the home, things like wood products, plastics, detergents and pesticides, and solvents or glue. Compounds like these can move or ‘off-gas’ from a product into the air. All are unhealthy to breathe. Plants absorb these chemicals and produce oxygen at the same time. A NASA study (looking into methods of cleaning astronaut air in space) found that spider plants, pothos and philodendrons filter toxins most efficiently.

Luckily many of the plants that best clean the air can handle the tough conditions of dorm living too.

Certain plants thrive in adversity. Plants such as these will clean the air, clear your mind, and survive the tough conditions of dorm living too. They can handle sleepless nights, loud music, bad food, too much water or too little, and too much heat or cold. And they, unlike some other creatures, will never complain.

Dracaena, Aloe Vera, Mums, Gerbera Daisies, Ivy Bamboo Palm. Mauna Loa, Chinese Evergreen, Burn Plant, Ficus, and Dumbcane are other air-cleaning wonder plants for your living space.

Easy care Dorm Plants

by Gayla Trail

1. Mother-In-Law’s Tongue (Sanservieria trifasciata)

Commonly known as Snake Plant or Mother-In-Law’s Tongue, this succulent is one of the hardiest houseplants around. This member of the agavaceae family can be identified by its long, spiky, variegated foliage, resembling snakeskin but edged with bright yellow/green. Waxy coated, succulent leaves make it drought tolerant, but this particular species is less succulent then other Sanservieria allowing it to tolerate lower light conditions then most succulent plants.

Light: Prefers bright sunlight but will tolerate a wide range of light levels including quite dark areas.

Temperature: Average room temperature is sufficient. Temperatures lower than 50°F can cause base rot.

Water: During the growing season (spring to fall) allow the soil to dry out slightly between watering. In the winter months, water once every 1-2 months. Misting of the leaves is unnecessary.

Repotting: Repot this plant infrequently. It is a slow grower and likes to be in small containers.

Propagation: Beginners should stick to propagation through offsets or division. As the plant grows it will produce many offsets that can be removed and replanted or left in the pot. It can also be propagated by leaf cuttings, but this method isn’t recommended for beginners.

2. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

A popular indoor plants for beginners due to its tolerance of all forms of neglect. Long, arching, variegated leaves are green on the inside and white on the edges or vice versa. There is a plain green variety but variegated leaved plants are the most popular. They are excellent in hanging baskets. Mature plants will soon form runners or baby plantlets. They form from shoots and hang down the side of the pot–hence the name spider plant. Spider Plants are also known for their ability to absorb dangerous chemicals from the air, perfect for the stuffy interiors of dorm life.

Light: Plants with variegated leaves require brighter light conditions to maintain the variegation. This plant prefers well-lit, indirect sunlight. It can be hung near a window or placed on a table close by.

Temperature: Thrives in average room temperatures but should not go below 45°F in winter.

Water: Water liberally during the growing season (spring to fall) since this plant is such a fast grower. Mist leaves during the summer months to boost the humidity levels. Reduce watering during winter.

Repotting: Repot in summer if the plant is literally bursting out of the container.

Propagation: One of the easiest houseplants to propagate as it basically does the job for you by producing mini versions of itself that are formed on long stems which emerge from the center of the plant. Spider plants can be easily propagated by division.

Common Problems: Although Spider Plants are easy to care for and will grow large and lush under the care of the blackest of thumbs, few can avoid the brown tips that are common to the leaves of this plant. The most common cause is high concentrations of chlorine and fluoride in tap water. This can be prevented by watering with rain or distilled water. Brown leaf tips can also be caused by under fertilizing or low humidity. You can remove the brown tips by trimming them off with scissors, following the shape of the leaf tip.

3. African Violet (Saintpaulia)

One of the features that makes this plant appealing is its ability to produce sets of flowers several times a year, uninhibited by the seasonal constraints that affect most plants. They come in many leaf shapes and flower colours and even dwarf varieties are available.

Light: African violets prefer bright light, but avoid direct sun. They should be placed away from a window, but not in the dark. They will thrive under artificial, fluorescent lights, making them ideal for dorm rooms lit by fluorescent tubing.

Temperature: They do best at temperatures between 60°F and 70°F. Avoid cold draughts.

Water: Maintain moist soil, but let the surface soil dry before watering. Water with tepid water. The best way to water African violets is by placing the pot in a bowl of shallow water instead of pouring water over the top of the soil. With this method you can avoid spilling water on the leaves, which will turn the leaves brown. African violets thrive under humid conditions. Achieve this by placing the pot on top of a dish filled with pebbles and water.

Repotting: They prefer to be root bound. Repot very infrequently.

Propagation: Division or leaf cuttings.

4. English Ivy (Hedera helix)

Another popular houseplant, and a regular in living rooms since Victorian times. The assortment of available leaf shapes, colours, variegation, and sizes of ivy make this plant endlessly interesting. They are easy to grow and will tolerate many conditions. They can be grown in hanging baskets or pots with the vines hanging down or trailing along book shelves and door frames.

Light: They will grow best in bright, indirect sunlight, but will withstand and even thrive under extremes of light intensity including full sun and shade. Plants with variegated leaves will require light on the brighter end of the spectrum.

Temperature: This is another plant that prefers moderate indoor temperatures between 50°F and 60°F. If the climate is too hot, the soil will dry out and the humidity level around the plant will be low, an ideal breeding ground for red spider mites.

Water: Keep soil barely moist, not soaking. Mist foliage regularly to encourage humidity.

Repotting: This is a fast growing vine, so repot in the early summer if the roots are struggling through the bottom holes of the pot.

Propagation: Ivies can be propagated very easily by rooting cuttings. Some variegated varieties may mysteriously begin producing new growth of different colouration. If you snip these off and root them in a new pot you can have a new plant of a completely different variety from the parent plant.

Common Problems: Red spider mites may cause you some aggravation. To avoid them keep the temperature moderate, the soil moist and spray the foliage with water regularly. Give the plant a bath every once in awhile by placing it under a gentle sprinkle in the shower. If you want to be extra careful, wash the leaves with water mixed with a tiny amount of soap. Be sure to rinse the soap off thoroughly.

5. Pothos or Devil’s Ivy (Epipremnum aureum)

The Devil’s Ivy is a hardy, fast growing trailing plant. They have heart shaped leaves that come in two main variegated colourations. The ‘Marble Queen’ variety has smooth leaves with white variegation, and the ‘Golden Pothos’ has golden, yellow-green variegation. The waxy, smooth leaves retain moisture well, making it tolerant to adverse conditions.

Light: Requires a well-lit habitat to ensure that the variegation does not fade, but will not thrive under direct sunlight.

Temperature: This is a tropical, hot climate, high humidity plant and will thrive at temperatures ranging between 70°F and 90°F. Do not let the temperature drop below 50°F.

Water: As stated previously this is a high humidity plant so be sure to water 1-2 times weekly and mist the leaves regularly.

Repotting: Same as English Ivy above.

Propagation: Fast growing vines like these are easy to propagate through cuttings.

6. Jade Plant (Crassula arborescens)

An easy to grow succulent that will provide many years of enjoyment. Their smooth, fleshy leaves can be as small as ½? small and as large as 1-2 inches long. Some varieties have red edges on the leaves. Over a few years Jades can grow to be as large as 2 feet tall. In maturity tiny, white flowers bloom during the winter months.

Light: Bright light or full sun is preferred. Too little light will result in elongated stems as the plant reaches for light. Jades that have red edged leaves will also lose this trait if light levels are inadequate.

Temperature: They prefer temperatures between 50°–70°F but will withstand 40°-100°F.

Water: Soil should be nearly dry before watering. The amount of time that will take will depend on how much light the plant receives. More light equals more water. Reduce frequency of watering in the winter months.

Repotting: Repot very infrequently. This plant grows slow and survives well when pot bound.

Propagation: Leaves that fall off can be placed in moist soil and will eventually sprout roots, stems and leaves.

7. Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica decora)

If you’re looking for something a little larger to enhance your dorm room this tree is a good candidate. Although they can grow to be gigantic in the wild, in a pot they will grow slow and stay reasonably sized. They have large, dark green, oval leaves with thin copper edging.

Light: Sun or shade

Temperature: Must be kept anywhere between the mid 60s and 70s F as they will stop growing in cooler temperatures.

Water: Keep soil barely moist, being sure not to over water: otherwise leaves will turn yellow and drop off.

Repotting: Infrequently

Propagation: Air layering

8. Cactus

There are many genera of cactus available to the beginner. In fact most cacti available in plant shops are easy care varieties. Care is so minimal for these slow growing plants that they nearly care for themselves.

Light: Bright light or full sun. Window sills are good if sun isn’t scorching or if the window isn’t freezing. Be careful in the winter not to put sill plants between the cold window and the curtains where they will freeze from the window or burn to death from the heater. Put your plant outside in the summer if you can provide a sheltered but bright location. Plants grown indoors can not withstand the scorching rays of the sun.

Temperature: During the winter 40°F at night and 60°F during the day. The key is to provide a dry and cool environment during the winter dormancy period.

Water: Cactus water requirements vary according to the seasons. The goal here is to mimic the changing seasons of the desert.

  • Winter – Give cacti enough water to prevent the leaves from shriveling and no more. Gradually increase water as spring approaches. A little spray now and then is a good idea.
  • Spring – Let soil become dry between waterings.
  • Summer – Water slightly less then spring.
  • Fall – Water once a month.

Repotting: Cacti are extremely slow growers, being most active in the spring. The best time to repot is right before the growth spurt in early spring, but you will only need to do this every 3 or 4 years. Clay pots are best for cacti as they let go of moisture, ensuring that you don’t cause rot from over watering.

Propagation: Offsets and leaf cuttings are easiest. Starting from seed is possible but difficult work for the beginner.

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Seed Starting – Damping Off

Guest post by Beate Schwirtlich

Seed Rot or ‘Damping Off’… What is damping off?

This gentle term describes the death of seedlings by fungal disease, either before or after they emerge from the pod. This sudden plant death can happen for up to four weeks after seeds are started. It actually describers a few different fungal diseases carried in soil or seed. These fungi can survive for years or forever in soil, and are found in all soil outdoors.

Causes:

  • overwatering
  • unsterile soil
  • dirty growing containers
  • overcrowding seedlings
  • stress, such as low light, cool temperatures

Symptoms:

  • Seeds don’t germinate: they may have rotted underground
  • Sudden wilting or discolouration
  • seedling falls over: stem bends at soil level
  • roots of diseased plant are black or brown

Prevention:

  • Clean growing conditions.
  • Clean containers yearly
  • use sterile soil mixes.
  • Water seedlings from the bottom of their containers
  • Avoid overwatering
  • Don’t plant seeds too deep
  • Soil with a low pH: commercial starter mixes average 5.5 pH
  • Good ventilation: moving air
  • Use a soil-less starting mix, such as a peat moss/vermiculite mix. (This is not an environmentally friendly option, however, as peat moss is comes from sensitive bogs.)
  • Plant seeds on soil, but cover with sand instead of soil.

Protect seedlings organically:

  • Mist plants with either chamomile clove, or stinging nettle tea as a preventative. These herbal brews have known anti-fungal properties.
  • A one-time dusting of cinnamon powder or powdered charcoal on the soil surface will also help prevent damping-off.
  • Disinfect containers and tools with very hot water and biodegradable soap: this is the most environmentally conscious method. If you think you have a real problem with damping off, use one part bleach to four parts water, or a 70% solution of rubbing alcohol.

Confession of a lazy grower
I do only two things to prevent damping off: I avoid overwatering, and I provide good air circulation. My seedlings are doing fine.

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Weeds in Your Garden — Bite Back!

By Susun Weed

I always say the gardener’s best revenge is to eat the weeds. I’ve been doing it for thirty years and can testify that my health and the health of my garden has never been better. Here are a few hints for gardeners who’d rather eat their weeds than hate them (and for non-gardeners who are adventurous enough to try out nature’s bounty).

View your weeds as cultivated plants; give them the same care and you’ll reap a tremendous harvest. Harvest frequently and do it when the weeds are young and tender. Thin your weeds and pinch back the annuals so your weeds become lushly leafy. Use weeds as rotation crops; they bring up subsoil minerals and protect against many insects. “Interplant” (by not weeding out) selected weeds; try purslane, lamb’s quarters, or amaranth with your corn, chickweed with peas/beans, and yellow dock, sheep sorrel, or dandelion with tomatoes). And, most importantly, harvest your weeds frequently, regularly, and generously.

Overgrown radishes, lettuces, and beans are tough and bitter. So are weeds that aren’t harvested frequently enough. Give your chickweed a haircut (yes! with scissors) every 4-7 days and it will stay tender all spring, ready to be added to any salad. If you forget a patch for two weeks, it may get stringy and tough and full of seed capsules. (All is not lost at this stage. The seeds are easy to collect—put the entire plant in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 2-3 days and use the seeds that fall to the bottom of the bag—and highly nutritious, with exceptional amounts of protein and minerals.

Unthinned carrots and lettuces grow thin and spindly, so do unthinned lamb’s quarters, amaranth, and other edible weeds. Wherever you decide to let the weeds grow, keep them thinned as you would any plant you expect to eat. Here’s how I do it: In early spring I lightly top-dress a raised bed with my cool-method compost (which is loaded with the seeds of edible weeds). Over this I strew a heavy coating of the seeds of lettuces and cresses and brassicas (cultivated salad greens), then another light covering of shifted compost.

Naturally, weed seeds germinate right along with my salad greens. When the plant are about two inches high, I go through the bed and thin the salad greens, pull out all grasses, smartweeds, cronewort, clear weed, and quick weed (though the last three are edible, I don’t find them particularly palatable). And, I thin back the chickweed, mallows, lamb’s quarters, amaranth, and garlic mustard and other edible wild greens.

Keep those annuals pinched back. You wouldn’t let your basil go straight up and go to flower, don’t let your lamb’s quarter either. One cultivated lamb’s quarter plant in my garden grew five feet high and four feet across, providing greens for salads and cooking all summer and a generous harvest of seeds for winter use.

When a crop of greens has bolted or gone to seed in your garden, you pull it all out and replant with another crop. Do the same with your weeds. We eat the greens of garlic mustard all spring, then pull it out just before it bolts (making a horseradishy vinegar from the choicest roots) — often revealing a generous crop of chickweed lurking underneath.

Some of My Favorite Garden Weeds

Annuals

Amaranth (Amaranthus retroflexus)
Young leaves, old leaves, even non-woody stalks are delicious as a cooked green; chop and boil for 30-40 minutes. Serve in their own broth; freeze leftovers for winter use. Use instead of spinach in quiche (you may never to grow spinach again). Collect seeds throughout the autumn by shaking seed heads over a lipped cookie sheet; or by harvest and dry the entire seed head. Winnowing out the chaff is tedious but soothing. There is a special thrill that comes when you toss the chaffy seed in the air, and the breeze catches it just-so, and the seeds fall back into your tray, while the prickly chaff scatters “to the four winds.”

Chickweed (Stellaria media)
Young leaves and stalks, even flowers, in salads. Blend with virgin olive oil and organic garlic for an unforgettable pesto. Add seeds to porridge.

Lamb’s Quarter (Chenopodium alba and related species, e.g. Chenopodium quinoa)
Young leaves in salads. Older leaves and tender stalks cooked. Leaves dried and ground into flour (replaces up to half the flour in any recipe). Seeds dried and cooked in soups, porridge.

Mallows (Malva neglecta and related species)
Leaves of any age and flowers (the closely related Hibiscus flowers too!) are delicious in salads. Roots are used medicinally.

Purslane (Portulacca oleracea)
The fleshy leaves and stalks of this plant are incredibly delicious in salads and not bad at all preserved in vinegar for winter use.

Biennials

Burdock (Arctium lappa)
Roots of non-flowering plants harvested after frost make a vinegar that is deep, and richly flavorful as well as a world-renowned tonic. Petioles of the leaves and the flowering stalk are also edible.

Garlic Mustard (Alliaria officinalis)
Year-round salad green. Leaves used in any season, even winter. Roots are harvested before plant flowers. Seeds are a spicy condiment.

Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota)
Leaves finely chopped in salads. Flowers are beautiful edible decorations. Roots of non-flowering plants, harvested in the fall, and cooked.

Perennials

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinalis)
Leaves eaten at any time, raw or cooked, but especially tasty in the fall ? not spring! Roots harvested any time; pickle in apple cider vinegar for winter use. Dandelion flower wine is justly famous.

Sheep Sorrel (Rumex acetosella)
Leaves add a sour spark to salads. Cooked with wild leeks or cultivated onion and potato they become a soup called “schav.”

Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)
Young leaves cooked for 40-45 minutes and served in their broth are one of my favorite dishes. Seeds can be used in baked goods, porridge.

Yellow Dock (Rumex crispus) Roots pickled in apple cider vinegar are tasty and a boon for enriching the blood. Leaves, especially young ones, are eaten raw or cooked.

Susun Weed, green witch and wise woman, is an extraordinary teacher with a joyous spirit, a powerful presence, and an encyclopedic knowledge of herbs and health. Ms. Weed’s four herbal medicine books focus on women’s health topics including: menopause, childbearing, and breast health. For more please visit www.susunweed.com.

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Doggy Design

Guest post by Felicia Friesema

Gardening, as you may well know, is a constantly changing learning process that tests our willingness to give in to the natural world, to submit ourselves wholeheartedly to a process that denies us what we think we want in favor of what the garden wants. You want fresh zukes? Battle powdery mildew then. Dreaming of a leaning tower of tomatoes? Gotta squash the caterpillars early on. You get the idea. What we want isn’t always what we get. But sometimes, Nature smiles on us and gives us something bigger and more unusual than ever before. For me, it took a dog playing in the grass for Nature’s light bulb to go off over my head.

Emma, our persnickety canine, is queen of all she surveys. Aside from a small, community-style, garden plot for summer veggies, the backyard was hers to rule with an iron paw. Stray cats, opossums, and curious crows dared not enter the domain for fear of her wrath. Our own lack of interest in clearing out old Bermuda grass from our clay-based soil meant that it stayed that way for some time, untouched, untrimmed, and often times, unloved.

It’s a mid-sized yard, about 50 feet long and 35 feet wide. My community gardening days back in the city of Baltimore had taught me how to cram as much as I could into a 6′ by 10′ garden plot as I could. The result was a jungle of tomatoes, cukes, zukes, and herbs that you couldn’t walk through by mid-July. Moving to a house with a backyard in sunny Southern California opened many doors garden-wise, but I stuck to what I knew and carved out a square plot for myself among the weeds. And then I saw Emma walking through the grass.

The area around the plot was often referred to as the tundra. And through this tundra, Emma had carved a winding path through the weeds and grasses that led to the back of the yard and around the garage. I realized then that she had done the hardest part for me already. All I had to do was follow her guidelines and I would have a series of well-defined beds and borders.

I started with a centerpiece. As Emma entered the yard, she would make a wide turn to the right before swinging left to head toward the back. This left a natural curve that had me thinking it was part of a circle. Off of that curve, I constructed the first garden element: the Pasta Island.

The Pasta Island is a raised circular bed, about 5 feet across, constructed of reclaimed stones from and old demolished patio, that sat cupped on the left side of the curve of Emma’s path. The stones are actually a very lucky find under a pile of old leaves. Their texture and shape meld perfectly with the lines of Emma’s path. Being a themed veggie patch, the island contains tomatoes, onions, basil, oregano, parsley, and bell peppers.

With the centerpiece finished, I added two more semi-circles leading up to the Island and a long wavy raised bed to the right, leaving Emma’s path intact and adding greatly to the overall appeal. There wasn’t a straight line anywhere. The soil was easier to amend, now that I had easy access to it via the path.

It’s like a domino design effect. Once the main elements, the island, the semi circles, and the right hand wave border, were installed, the rest of the garden opened up to me like a massive sunflower. Suddenly there was space for a patio made from reclaimed concrete paving stones. And next to the patio the was room for a mini perennial Mediterranean garden full of rosemary, oregano, lavender, thyme, tarragon, and a bay laurel tree in a large pot.

Emma took to the “new” paths right away, speeding through the veggies as though it were an obstacle course designed just for her. The natural shapes keep her out of the veggie beds as well, since we’re not intruding on her own backyard rhythms or making her redefine her territory. And at last my eyes are comforted by gentle, meandering curves, no longer confined to rigid rows. The veggie garden is now a decorative garden in its own right, easily adaptable to crop rotations and soil amendments and pleasant enough for a summer night glass of wine shared by the light of citronella candles.

Now if I could only teach Emma how to dig up weeds.

All Photos courtesy of Felicia Friesema

Felicia Friesema is a community garden advocate and Development Coordinator for the YWCA of San Gabriel Valley. Her dedication to community gardening extends to her own backyard, which she has turned into a community garden for her friends, allowing them to plant any vegetables and flowers they wish.

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Summer Seeds

It may be summer, but it’s not too late to sow some seeds. Here’s a list of perennials that can be started from seed in July and August.

July Perennials

  • Astilbe
  • Bellis Perennis
  • Campanula
  • Gailardia
  • Foxglove
  • Gypsophila
  • Holllyhock
  • Linum
  • Lunaria
  • Lupin
  • Myosotis
  • Pansy
  • Poppy
  • Pyrethrum
  • Primula
  • Sweet William

August Perennials

  • Arabis
  • Armeria
  • Astilbe
  • Bellis Perennis
  • Campanula
  • Candytuft
  • Dephinius
  • Gaillardia
  • Lychnis
  • Myosotis
  • Plytycodon
  • Primula
  • Viola
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