Crispy Shallots, Shallot Oil, and Cookbooks

Recently, the addition of an island/counter that has suddenly provided me with more counter space than I have ever had before, as well as the well-timed arrival of an indulgent purchase of newly published cookbooks has us spending whole days in the kitchen. I am always drawn to the kitchen in other people’s homes. It’s the room I always seem to migrate to and camp out in for the duration during a party. I can’t express how happy I am now to have a counter that offers me the chance to spread out a little while I cook and can, as well as the space to perch and socialize when Davin is doing the work.

Now, on those books. I’m slowly making my way through the pile, savouring each one. I began first with two that feature South East Asian home cooking: Burma: Rivers of Flavor by Naomi Duguid and Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan. The first, “Burma,” is my favourite sort of cookbook, with as much put into telling personal stories and offering a small window into a culture through beautiful images as it is a manual for cooking good food. “Vietnamese Home Cooking” is not a travel journal, but it does have a personable element to it that includes beautiful photographs taken by photographer Eric Wolfinger. I have already used the advice in this book to successfully purchase my first set of cleavers and tightly wrap a proper spring roll.

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I Bought a Cleaver. In Fact, I Bought Two!

Emboldened by a cleaver buying guide in the book, “Vietnamese Home Cooking,” I set off to Chinatown on Friday afternoon with the intent to buy a cleaver.

As a teenager, I worked a handful of sweaty kitchen jobs where I was taught proper knife skills and somehow, through the experience of chopping a hell of a lot of produce, developed an interest and appreciation for kitchen knives. Twenty plus years later and I find that I genuinely enjoy chopping vegetables and herbs, and as long as I am not slogging my way through a pile of teary onions, I can chop and chop all day long. It’s a meditation in motion.

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Review and Giveaway: Jora JK125 Tumbling Composter

Building an outdoor compost bin was the very first thing we did when we started working on the new yard last spring. We made our bin on the cheap by upcycling a busted futon frame that was left in the yard by former occupants. So far the bin has worked beautifully, but like all one-bin systems it has its downsides. Keeping the bin aerated is a chore, and the fresh, ready-made compost is a pain to extract from the very bottom of the pile. The bin is also open to vermin, and while nesting rodents can be discouraged simply by keeping a well-maintained pile, I have had at least one unwelcome occupant in my years working with D.I.Y compost piles.

Homemade bins are very viable and often far superior to the cheap black plastic contraptions sold by the City (our kept falling apart and eventually housed a wasp nest), but they are not ideal. For that reason I have longed to try a really good composting system, specifically a tumbler that makes easy work of turning a heavy pile. Still, when eartheasy contacted me about trying out the Jora JK125 Tumbling Composter I was intrigued but extremely hesitant as I wasn’t sure where or how I would cram a second composting unit into an already jam-packed, narrow urban yard.

Over the years, my motto as an obsessive plant hoarder working within exceptionally tight spaces has been, “I’ll make it fit.” And somehow, magically, I always do. The only reason I was able to to manage it here is because the Jora is a self-contained unit. It smells a bit when the balance of greens and browns is off, but even then we’re only subjected to a marginally funky smell when the lid is opened. Beyond that, it’s a really easy composting system to live with. I specifically located my D.I.Y bin way at the back of the garden, away from the house, but I was able to cram the Jora into our outdoor seating area, nearly touching the table I eat at. So far so good. Some people decorate their outdoor living areas with decorative water features, attractive container plantings, or charming woodstoves. I sit down to dinner next to an industrial-green, powder-coated steel, 33 gallon compost bin.

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Rainy Day Books and Lemon Balm Tea from the Garden

Rainy days and Mondays always get me down.” – The Carpenters

I’m not going to mince words — the weather is shit right now. It’s grey and cold and the coffee I drank two hours ago has been unable to penetrate its dreary, low energy malaise. I feel like a zombie and I look like one, too. I often joke that I’ve spent so much time in the company of plants that I’ve become one. But the plants are bright, colourful, and standing up straight today — we are not in sync at all.

If you can stand to be outdoors, the overcast haze makes the perfect conditions for photographing the garden. I dragged my sorry ass out there this afternoon to capture some recent changes to the garden and photograph these books. The lemon balm is reaching a nice size now and I was reminded on sighting it that a fistful lazily torn and brewed in a cup of hot water is a good rainy day remedy. I added slices of fresh ginger and ginger honey purchased at the market to mine.

The cup is empty now and while I can’t say that I am feeling any more chipper than before, I am at least cheered by the prospect of more drinks made with fresh (rather than dried) herbs from the garden in the coming months.

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Winter Reading

I haven’t done much book buying or reading recently, but it’s been ages since I’ve done a book round-up and there have certainly been books in the months since I last wrote about what I’m reading.

Crazy Water Pickled Lemons: Enchanting Dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa, by Diana Henry – I’ve been obsessed with recipe books featuring food from this region ever since I fell in love with Moro East and later its predecessor, Moro: The Cookbook. These are both fantastic books and I would recommend starting there if you are interested in food from that part of the world.

I was drawn to purchase Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by the title as well as the sound of some of the dishes, most especially Lavender, Orange, and Almond Cake. I thought about making it for months and finally got the chance the other night. Big let down. The flavour combination IS gorgeous, but the cake was way out of balance, using far too much butter. I ended up with a cake that was burned on the outside before it completely cooked on the inside. We’re eating it anyway. Davin likes it and says it tastes caramelized. I think it tastes burnt, and will come up with my own version the next time I make it.

Despite a bad start, I still think the book is incredibly inspiring and worth buying for that reason alone. Diana Henry tells stories about discovering new foods in the Middle East that have reignited my enthusiasm for basic ingredients, like parsley, and sparked new ways for me to think about using those ingredients in my own, less exotic cooking. I am eager to try Stuffed Figs Dipped in Chocolate (they’re stuffed with marzipan!) and Cardamom-Baked Figs and Plums with Burnt Honey and Yoghurt Pannacotta when fig season rolls back around.

Man Eating Bugs: The Art and Science of Eating Insects, by Peter Menzel and Faith D’ Alusio – I bought this book at the thrift store for a couple of bucks just the other day and I am already enjoying it thoroughly. In theory, I’m 100% behind the idea of eating bugs, the hard part is getting beyond the gag reflex to actually do it. Ten years ago, we ate grasshoppers in Oaxaca City, Mexico and really enjoyed them. We bought our first taste in a little plastic baggie. They were fried and coated in chile powder. Later, we tried them sprinkled on top of cactus paddle salad. This was a great salad that we ended up sharing several times over the course of the week we stayed in Oaxaca. The grasshoppers reminded us of bacon bits. At least as far as I could remember the taste of bacon. By that point I had been a vegetarian for over a decade.

I think I could muster up the courage to eat ants and smaller larvae as long as they are dead and buried inside a tortilla and I don’t have to see them. The trick is getting a taste for them before I have to look at what I’m eating. I’m not saying I couldn’t muster up the courage to eat a tarantula or a large, squirming larvae, it’s just that it would take a lot of resolve to do so.

This book has great pictures, but what I’m enjoying most are the stories the writers tell as they travel around the world trying out many of these insects for the first time. It’s fascinating stuff and my curiosity around the strange and intriguing foods people eat is what keeps me coming back to wanting to try more insects. They describe tarantula as oily, but surprisingly un-hairy. It’s the hair that puts me off most, so you never know… perhaps I could try it after-all.

High and Dry: Gardening with Cold-Hardy Dryland Plants, by Robert Nold – I’m borrowing this book from my friend Barry in anticipation of a trip to Denver, Colorado this June, where I will be giving two presentations at the Denver Botanic Garden. I’m really looking forward to this trip. The alpine gardens are supposed to be incredible and I can not wait to make the trek up into the mountains to see them growing in their element.

When it comes to garden books, I prefer those that are photo-heavy, which is the main reason why I go a bit crazy taking photos for my own books. Unfortunately, this book isn’t satisfying in that regard, but it is packed with information that I hope will serve as inspiration when it comes time to choose a few alpines for my new garden this spring.

Black Plants: 75 Striking Choices for the Garden by Paul Bonine – This book was a birthday gift from Barry that I’ve dipped into now and again since last July. It’s not terribly informative, but it’s not meant to be a resource. Instead, it’s the sort of little book that you pick up when you’re looking for something new and intriguing to add to your garden. If you’re into black plants, you’ll recognize a few old favourites and many more that you’ll want to add immediately. The spread on Fritillaria persica is making me regret not buying the bulbs this fall, but I couldn’t justify the expense at the time. Maybe next year.

Toast: The Story of a Boy’s Hunger, by Nigel Slater – I purchased and read this book ages ago, but realized I haven’t talked about it here. Nigel Slater is a writer I look up to. One of my main and perhaps most daunting longterm goals is to write a personal memoir type book around gardening. If I can write one that is half as good as Mr. Slater’s, I’ll be pleased. Toast is filled with touching personal stories that centre around his childhood and adolescence growing up in suburban England in the 1960′s. You’ll love this book.

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