Rainy Day Books and Lemon Balm Tea from the Garden

Rainy days and Mondays always get me down.” – The Carpenters

I’m not going to mince words — the weather is shit right now. It’s grey and cold and the coffee I drank two hours ago has been unable to penetrate its dreary, low energy malaise. I feel like a zombie and I look like one, too. I often joke that I’ve spent so much time in the company of plants that I’ve become one. But the plants are bright, colourful, and standing up straight today — we are not in sync at all.

If you can stand to be outdoors, the overcast haze makes the perfect conditions for photographing the garden. I dragged my sorry ass out there this afternoon to capture some recent changes to the garden and photograph these books. The lemon balm is reaching a nice size now and I was reminded on sighting it that a fistful lazily torn and brewed in a cup of hot water is a good rainy day remedy. I added slices of fresh ginger and ginger honey purchased at the market to mine.

The cup is empty now and while I can’t say that I am feeling any more chipper than before, I am at least cheered by the prospect of more drinks made with fresh (rather than dried) herbs from the garden in the coming months.

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Winter Reading

I haven’t done much book buying or reading recently, but it’s been ages since I’ve done a book round-up and there have certainly been books in the months since I last wrote about what I’m reading.

Crazy Water Pickled Lemons: Enchanting Dishes from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa, by Diana Henry – I’ve been obsessed with recipe books featuring food from this region ever since I fell in love with Moro East and later its predecessor, Moro: The Cookbook. These are both fantastic books and I would recommend starting there if you are interested in food from that part of the world.

I was drawn to purchase Crazy Water Pickled Lemons by the title as well as the sound of some of the dishes, most especially Lavender, Orange, and Almond Cake. I thought about making it for months and finally got the chance the other night. Big let down. The flavour combination IS gorgeous, but the cake was way out of balance, using far too much butter. I ended up with a cake that was burned on the outside before it completely cooked on the inside. We’re eating it anyway. Davin likes it and says it tastes caramelized. I think it tastes burnt, and will come up with my own version the next time I make it.

Despite a bad start, I still think the book is incredibly inspiring and worth buying for that reason alone. Diana Henry tells stories about discovering new foods in the Middle East that have reignited my enthusiasm for basic ingredients, like parsley, and sparked new ways for me to think about using those ingredients in my own, less exotic cooking. I am eager to try Stuffed Figs Dipped in Chocolate (they’re stuffed with marzipan!) and Cardamom-Baked Figs and Plums with Burnt Honey and Yoghurt Pannacotta when fig season rolls back around.

Man Eating Bugs: The Art and Science of Eating Insects, by Peter Menzel and Faith D’ Alusio – I bought this book at the thrift store for a couple of bucks just the other day and I am already enjoying it thoroughly. In theory, I’m 100% behind the idea of eating bugs, the hard part is getting beyond the gag reflex to actually do it. Ten years ago, we ate grasshoppers in Oaxaca City, Mexico and really enjoyed them. We bought our first taste in a little plastic baggie. They were fried and coated in chile powder. Later, we tried them sprinkled on top of cactus paddle salad. This was a great salad that we ended up sharing several times over the course of the week we stayed in Oaxaca. The grasshoppers reminded us of bacon bits. At least as far as I could remember the taste of bacon. By that point I had been a vegetarian for over a decade.

I think I could muster up the courage to eat ants and smaller larvae as long as they are dead and buried inside a tortilla and I don’t have to see them. The trick is getting a taste for them before I have to look at what I’m eating. I’m not saying I couldn’t muster up the courage to eat a tarantula or a large, squirming larvae, it’s just that it would take a lot of resolve to do so.

This book has great pictures, but what I’m enjoying most are the stories the writers tell as they travel around the world trying out many of these insects for the first time. It’s fascinating stuff and my curiosity around the strange and intriguing foods people eat is what keeps me coming back to wanting to try more insects. They describe tarantula as oily, but surprisingly un-hairy. It’s the hair that puts me off most, so you never know… perhaps I could try it after-all.

High and Dry: Gardening with Cold-Hardy Dryland Plants, by Robert Nold – I’m borrowing this book from my friend Barry in anticipation of a trip to Denver, Colorado this June, where I will be giving two presentations at the Denver Botanic Garden. I’m really looking forward to this trip. The alpine gardens are supposed to be incredible and I can not wait to make the trek up into the mountains to see them growing in their element.

When it comes to garden books, I prefer those that are photo-heavy, which is the main reason why I go a bit crazy taking photos for my own books. Unfortunately, this book isn’t satisfying in that regard, but it is packed with information that I hope will serve as inspiration when it comes time to choose a few alpines for my new garden this spring.

Black Plants: 75 Striking Choices for the Garden by Paul Bonine – This book was a birthday gift from Barry that I’ve dipped into now and again since last July. It’s not terribly informative, but it’s not meant to be a resource. Instead, it’s the sort of little book that you pick up when you’re looking for something new and intriguing to add to your garden. If you’re into black plants, you’ll recognize a few old favourites and many more that you’ll want to add immediately. The spread on Fritillaria persica is making me regret not buying the bulbs this fall, but I couldn’t justify the expense at the time. Maybe next year.

Toast: The Story of a Boy’s Hunger, by Nigel Slater – I purchased and read this book ages ago, but realized I haven’t talked about it here. Nigel Slater is a writer I look up to. One of my main and perhaps most daunting longterm goals is to write a personal memoir type book around gardening. If I can write one that is half as good as Mr. Slater’s, I’ll be pleased. Toast is filled with touching personal stories that centre around his childhood and adolescence growing up in suburban England in the 1960′s. You’ll love this book.

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A Bit of Light Summer Reading

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As usual I’m acquiring books faster than I can read them, although I have placed a light moratorium on cookbooks. Last year I mentioned a sudden and insatiable craving for cookbooks. A year later and I have no where to put them! The cookbook monster has been placed on a leash for the time being.

What I wrote then about how I read cookbooks has held true. I don’t follow recipes; I look at pictures. I recently followed a recipe to the letter. It was in the book “The French Market: More Recipes from a French Kitchen.” This is a gorgeous book with lovely photos that make me ache to live in France just so I can take photos of bundles of flowers set inside old, dirty creme fresh buckets. Sure, why not. Unfortunately, I absolutely hated the recipe. In all fairness to the author and the other recipes that are probably delicious and perfect, it was for chicken liver pate, which is a very specific and acquired taste. Turns out I do not have a taste for this particular pate and neither do my friends. I now have 2 bowls of the stuff sitting in the fridge.

But you know what? For some inexplicable reason I had it in my head that I would like to try making pate, just for the heck of it. Just to know what that was all about. And I did. And it was greasy and awful. Moving on.

The way I “read” cookbooks is by sitting on the couch and flipping through the pretty pictures. And I dream. Usually the pictures get me thinking in a new way about an ingredient I am currently growing in the garden. In the winter it adds fuel to my excitement about the coming season and how rich my life will be when a specific ingredient becomes available. Sometimes the photos make me want to pick up my camera and take pictures. Sometimes they make me really hungry.

One cookbook author I do read is Nigel Slater. He’s my current favourite. I mentioned “The Kitchen Diaries” last year, a book I still pull out regularly to gaze at lovingly and run my hand over the beautiful paper. Since that post I have also read his autobiography, “Toast“, and book of essays about British food called, “Eating for England.”

And then for Valentine’s Day, Davin bought me the most beautiful book in the history of books, “Tender: Volume 1.” It’s a cookbook, but it is also about his vegetable garden. It’s pretty much perfect for gardeners who love food. The book is divided into chapters, each with a focus on one vegetable. He begins each chapter with personal anecdotes about that vegetable, how he grows it in his garden, and how he prepares it in the kitchen. The rest of the chapter is just one mouthwatering photo after another, and several recipes that feature the vegetable. I could go on about this book for days, but I intend to write about three more today!

Next up is City Farmer: Adventures in Urban Food Growing, by my friend Lorraine Johnson. I was reading and loving Lorraine’s books long before I finally met her. I’m not quite sure how I found them or which one I found first; however, she was one of the first garden writers I discovered that was writing about the subject in a way that related to my own experiences. She was the garden writer I most wanted to meet and happily turned out to be the first to offer me a kind word and a show of support. An early book, “The Gardener’s Manifesto“, was well before its time, and remains one of my very favourite books about gardening ever written. Sadly it is now out of print. Her newest book is a tribute to urban gardening in all its forms. It is both a personal account of her own experiences as an urban farmer and an introduction to an assortment of interesting urban food producers. The book is also peppered with little how-to nuggets and words of encouragement to get urbanites started on a new approach to city life. Lorraine is an excellent storyteller; I ate this book up in one sitting.

Look, I’m one of the converted. I maintain four very urban gardens, I have read several books on this topic and generally feel like there is nothing new about urban gardening that I don’t already know, and yet I finished this book with a renewed sense of enthusiasm and excitement. My feeling at the end was, “Yes, let’s do this thing! Oh right, I already am.”

City Farmer is not yet available in the US, but I have a signed copy to give away. Use the comments to share a book the is currently inspiring you. I will randomly choose one winner on Friday, July 9.

It’s been a few weeks since I finished it, and even though it has absolutely nothing to do with gardening, I feel very compelled to mention, The Book of Night Women by Marlon James. What a great novel. I shot through it quickly, taking every spare moment I could find to dive into the story. It’s about slavery in Jamaica and it is not a book that tiptoes lightly around this subject. Be forewarned, there is a lot of brutality and violence. It paints a very real portrait of what life must have been like for everyone caught in this depraved system. There are no clearly defined “bad people” to hate in this story. No simple suggestion that some people are inexplicably evil. It is much more complex and insightful than that and filled with interesting observations about human nature and how we lose our humanity. It was not an easy read, but I got a lot from it. It also lead me to some new historical information that was unknown to me previously.

My friend Barry introduced me to Green Thoughts: A Writer in the Garden by Eleanor Perényi. A post I wrote outlining the traits that make a good gardener reminded him of an essay in the book called “Failures”, all about how failure is an essential part of gardening. Unfortunately I am yet to find a copy of the original gem published in 1981, but I scooped up this reissued version on the cheap at a discount bookstore I frequent here in Toronto. Since then I’ve been doling the book out in chunks, opening it up at random pages and reading it essay by essay. The writing is beautiful and I was surprised to discover, very funny. Eleanor Perényi has a wry, sometimes slightly wicked sense of humor and a general ease about gardening that I can relate to. She takes the piss out of herbalists (although I do not agree with what she says about herbs), pesticide use, and sexism in gardening, while making an elegant plea for earthworms and weeds at a time in the gardening world when such things desperately needed an advocate. You’ll like this book.

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This Week’s Inspiration

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Yesterday I posed the question, What is inspiring your edible garden this year? I think it is only fair that I join in and divulge my current inspirations for the 2010 growing season.

I saw this book, Terrine by Stéphane Reynaud the other day but couldn’t justify the purchase. The next day I treated myself to a visit to a used bookstore I like for cookbooks and bam, there it was at a fraction of the cost. How’s that for timing?

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

Let’s pause for a moment to enjoy the endpaper. Very nice.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

This recipe for Basil Coulis is what has me thinking about my garden for 2010. Basil. Lots and lots of fresh basil. Several different varieties of basil in all sorts of colours, shapes, and flavours. I can never have enough of it and even though we freeze it and dry it, nothing compares to the real deal fresh off the plant. Let’s hope for a summer that is dryer and hotter than last year’s, which was a total disaster for basil lover’s across Eastern North America.

Basil Coulis is really just basil in oil with lemon, but let’s call it coulis and be fancy.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

This recipe seems like a lot of work for what is essentially cooked veggies in a jar, but sure, let’s pretend I’m gonna make this. It does look awfully pretty in that jar. Bonus points if all of the ingredients come from my garden. My broccoli kicked ass last year, although I can’t really claim all of the credit. What sucked for basil was great for cool weather-loving brassicas.

Photo by Gayla Trail  All Rights Reserved

I also bought this book yesterday, Cook + Book: Memories and Recipes by Alain Coumont.

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First I’m going to make my own sourdough starter using the recipe in this book, and then I am gonna make my own bread and use it to make this tartine. The key ingredient: fresh herbs. Again with the fresh herbs. Growing herbs isn’t anything different from any other year. I always grow enough to feed an army. And still it’s not enough. However, I didn’t grow herbs indoors this winter because we went away for a month and now I’m craving the smell, sight, and taste of them.

I’m ready. Unfortunately the weather isn’t. There’s still snow on the ground and while I could probably head over to the community plot and find a leaf or two of parsley underneath the snow or start some small basil plants on the windowsill, the fact is that we’re not going to be enjoying those big fragrant bushes just yet. Patience.

p.s. Don’t forget to enter the giveaway for my new book, “Grow Great Grub: Organic Food from Small Spaces.”

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Let’s Learn About the Historical Origins of Herbs, Fruits and Vegetables

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Have you ever heard of sea cabbage, a wild cousin of the domesticated brassicas? Did you know that edible bananas are a primitive plant thought to be related to some of the first trees of the primeval forest?

I didn’t either until this weekend when I was finishing up an article on unusual vegetables and decided to fact check some long-ago gleaned historical knowledge against books in my personal library. What began as a quick check turned into a much longer read.

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The first book I pulled out is called The Origins of Fruit and Vegetables by Johnathan Roberts (in case you’re wondering mine cost $22US, not $472 YIKES). I think I’ve had this book in my possession since it was first published in 2001, and while I have flipped through the pages of historical prints and food-based artwork more than once, I’m not certain of just how much I have actually read. If you’re interested in plant history and ethnobotany, this book is a great place to start. It’s not exactly a definitive tome on the subject but it’s a beautiful book that provides just enough insight to draw you into searching out more. It also gives you something to talk about in mixed company. Now if only they’d make a gardener’s trivial pursuit for geeks like me.

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Next week I am off on a month long journey to The Caribbean. As you can imagine I am extremely excited about food and plants. One of the plants I am most stoked about seeing up close and personal is the vanilla orchid. I have actually seen the vining plant growing in the greenhouse of a botanical garden, but I have never seen one growing outdoors and in bloom nor smelled the scent of its flowers. Or touched a green pod straight off the plant for that matter. Everything about the vanilla from its history to the process of growing and fermenting the beans fascinates me to no end. I found a book at a used bookstore last week that indulges everything one could want or need to know about vanilla. I plan to read it during the first part of my trip to get in the mood to see vanilla towards the end. Vanilla: The Cultural History of the World’s Favorite Flavor and Fragrance, written by Patricia Rain, the self-proclaimed Queen of Vanilla is indeed what I would call a definitive tome on the subject, covering everything including a sampling of interesting new ways to use vanilla in cooking. If the beans are affordable and customs allows me to bring some back, I plan to get a whole bunch as gifts for friends. I’d also like to try my hand at making homemade vanilla extract to give as gifts. I am after-all going to be visiting places known for both decent rum and vanilla production. I should be able to produce a quantity of excellent extract affordably. I think I’m going to need bigger luggage.

A third book, one that I have gone to many times and have even posted about here is Herbal: The Essential Guide to Herbs for Living by Deni Bown. I bought my copy back in 2002 after much deliberation. At $58.00 the book is not exactly cheap but I promise you it is worth the dough if you are curious about the historical background and usage of the herbs you like to grow or are seeking inspiration to try a few exotics. The book does contain some growing information but is not meant as a gardening primer. I’d suggest Exotic Herbs by Carole Saville, or New Book of Herbs by Jekka McVicar if you’re looking for more definitive growing considerations for a wide variety of common and unusual herbs.

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